Search results for query: coupler pin

If you're talking about pulling the center shaft out, you need to start by pulling the whole column out of the car. If your car is a floor shift, that's relatively easy. Pull the steering wheel, unplug the turn signal switch, remove the roll pin holding the coupler to the steering gear, unbolt...

I used this one. But I used an aftermarket manual steering box. New Steering U Joint Black Universal 5/8"-36 Spline X 3/4" Round 60 Style | eBay Didn't want to weld it on permanently. So I drilled a hole on the column end, tapped the coupler and coupler, used a 3/8 grade 8 bolt and lock nut...

Here is what they say to do: Coupler Installation 1) Using a drift punch and ball-peen hammer, remove the roll pin from the OEM coupler and separate it from the steering gear box. 2) Remove the firewall mounting screws and the under dash mount and slide the steering column back far enough to...

I just finished my project of installing 5.9 magnum manifolds into my 65 dart running a 340, 904LA automatic floor shift transmission. I did a lot of research on this site, did a lot of trial and error and here is exactly what I used to make these manifolds work in my car. 5.9 magnum manifolds...

Good luck on that huge pin on end of shaft. That thing dont come out! Would be nice to R&R the lower column bushing/bearing without pulling the entire shaft. Save the pre-65 rectangle coupler box shoe spring as the new one wont fit.

This is the less seen early style pre 65 (?) coupler with the roll pin and completely rectangle gasket and clamp style. Comes with 2 square shoes and crimp cover only. Clean- patina only, $40 shipped. IIrc it came off an early 64 Barracuda. PayPal only.

I bought and used the same set. On my 66 barracuda, I stuck the end of the punch in the female end of a 3/8" drive extension and wrapped some tape around it to hold it. Gave me the room I needed to give it a good wack with a hammer, and the Roll pin came out.

Should be a small 1/8? roll pin to keep the shoes from pulling out near the top of the coupler also.

This is a used 3 1/2 inch factory steering column coupler for a 67 and up A or B body car with POWER steering. It has the "guts" that go inside the unit, the roll pin to secure it to the box and the top clip that holds it together. It does NOT have the rubber seal (They can be purchased on the...

Thanks! I'll look into the graining markers! Thanks for the tip! I was gonna go over the grain with semi gloss or matte clear anyways. No, I decided to fix the one I have. I'm sure it'll be fine - it worked for the last 55 years, haha. Gonna add that little safety pin though. Also, took...

I hate when I knock bulk stuff off like that. I have to take a DEEP breath and plug forward. lol

More progress today! (Sorry, no photos) This morning, I got the rear suspension put all together for the last time (until I decide to pull the springs and paint them) I then jacked the car up and put it back on the wheel cribs and started greasing the frontend before I had to head off to work...

Hello Members. Can anyone provide some advice on replacing the seal on the steering coupler on an early A 65 Dart? I need to drive/push/remove the pin out of the lower end of the steering shaft in order to slide the new seal onto the shaft. The seal that seals The top end of the coupler. The...

Ya, the coupler roll pin is a piece of cake. The shoe pin is another thing.

I put a block of wood against the pin that holds the shoes on the shaft. I had to use a couple of light taps from a hammer to move mine, it seemed to have plenty of length to complete the engagement. IIRC There is a plastic sleeve or coupler that holds the inner shaft and outer shaft in a fixed...

The only problem with that is I'm using this style coupler I'm doing a power to manual conversion so I have to take the shaft out some to make it longer but that pin has to come out to put on the new coupler.

When reassembling this, The notch on the coupler just left of the roll pin shown in your first pic is also an index mark. is supposed to line up with the index mark on the shaft. This is because the steering box, the coupling, and the steering wheel all have master splines and only go on one...

Cutoff disc should make quick work of it if not needed.

No doubt. I ended up pulling the column out of my 66. Way easier to replace the lower seal/ bearing that way.

Guess I'll be pulling my steering column out again, 65 Dart with manual steering, wish I had seen all this when I did mine, and mine had the wrong coupler on it to start with, which I didn't know, and it had no "guts" inside the coupler = 1/2 round of play in the steering wheel. I never could...

yep, steering coupler.... watch out for the dowel pin and that spring clip

A 1980 vintage 727 would have come with a 3 wire neutral safety switch. The middle pin on the switch is for the neutral safety feature. the outer two pins are for your backup lights. Not knowing what modification have already been made, and how your car is wired at this point, you may have to do...

i used one of these for a temp fix...https://images.homedepot-static.com/productImages/6c6f404d-510f-4371-b624-6268f210c4d5/svn/chrome-everbilt-escutcheons-flanges-c5340c-64_1000.jpg

...job. I have a new seal - the one with the white nylon bushing in the center. To install the seal I have to remove the column, remove the coupler, and remove the coupler shoe pin to be able to slide the new seal up the shaft, correct? Is there guidance on removing that coupler pin? Thank you.

Okay - got the coupler rebuilt and put the clip on. It's a good design. I think what happened is that after I (or an earlier owner) killed the shear pins, the lower shaft simply rode up on its own after the coupler cover came loose. The steering column most likely didn't move backward as I...

The Bergman couplers are longer than original coupler to fit the Borgeson, header clearance problem and the shoes would not fit the pin through the shaft.

Cuda Al submitted a new Article: Steering Coupler Rebuild "How To" Read more about this article here...

The small pin goes in the top of the housing right below the seal. It keeps coupler from coming apart if the shaft pulled up.

The punch you need is a 5/16. I know it only comes out 1 way and if memory serves me, you want drive it out from the side the punch actually fits into on the coupler.

There was no pin in the early couplers. Years ago I solved this by drilling and tapping a hole in the coupler body on one side. Now it has a screw in there.