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A floor shift column would be ideal but.. I don’t often see them come up for grabs and when they do they’re pricey. I don’t know if that’s the going rate or they just overshot their value..even more ideal would be to find one for a manual steering box since I plan to go to manual steering but...

I contacted brewers on a full kit but they weren’t takin orders for transmissions and won’t be for a while.. I did find the trans, bellhousing, some of the linkage, shifter, and clutch from a resto shop that was converting from manual to auto.. they had that for sale and I pounced. I did have to...

68 is the best year… just 4spd swapped my 68 GT. I plan to make a thread on it once I’m done working on the inside but here’s a preview

67-69 Darts are the best !!! Welcome !

I ended up using some self tapping screws with big fender washers.. worked like a charm for me 25 mile maiden voyage. Some fine adjustments need to be made though.. 1-2 rod and the clutch engagement point. It engages high up on the pedal.. Which direction do I need to adjust the threaded...

I believe Brewers clarifies that the reason they don’t cut the hole in the floor is because of the two shifter styles so it can work for either the round or oval opening .. when you cut the opening for your application of course. a person commented on their post asking about it.. just food for...

This was posted on their page on FB today.. so they have them currently

Probably so.. I’ll put some rivets in just to be on the safe side. I can easily drill those out and throw some weld in its place.. well someone who knows how to weld can lol

Hmm some good ideas.. I may do the rivet fix just to be on the safe side to get it home.. it’s not far but there will be a handful of intersections I’ll encounter where I may not be able to squeak through to minimize the need to shift

I have 3.91s that’ll will go in my axle swap within the next month or so.. it’s just a stock 68 318 but I’m planning for the future of a mag 360 or something similar

On a side note.. while I’m glad the 4spd swap is done.. I will say this, I won’t do another :BangHead:. It was a learning experience to say the least

The pivot ball is bolted to the bracket through the inner fender.. just the bracket needs to be welded to the frame rail

So I completed my 4spd swap in my 68 Dart. I plan on making a post about that separate of this but.. could I make a 20ish mile drive before it gets welded on to the rail? It’s a diaphragm McLoed rated for 400hp so it’s not a super heavy duty clutch.. I just need to transport it from a friends...

The old Chrysler starter has a signature sound that mopar fans can hear across the parking lot. I’m a fan of the sound but, I went with the modern one on my car. Small, affordable, and opens up room for activities

Just an update to my seat height issue.. when pulling the bench to do my 4spd swap, I noticed there was some wood blocks under the brackets that the studs went through.. guess that explains the seemingly high seating position. I suppose the retired older lady that was on the title needed some...

You can or have them drilled for the large pattern.

Good to know. better to know now than when you’re up to your elbows in mopar a-body. I’m leaning toward the Doug’s .. maybe I’ll just buy the tti z bar and sell my stock one to someone who needs one.. when the time comes anyhow.. I start my 4spd install tomorrow and wanted to check. I recently...

I was just gonna use the mopar performance ones.. possibly two left side springs since the pass side will be a little higher than the drivers by design.

The TTI’s make ya mod your Z bar on stick cars or ya can buy theirs.. do the Doug’s have any issues with the OE Z bar ?

I plan to do a bit of a raked look on my 68. I’m gonna go with SS leaf springs to achieve it. I’m also gonna gonna go with manual steering as well. There are some aftermarket brake kits that give ya the option to keep the small bolt patten but big bolt is also readily available

That’s the U joint. The 7260 is for your lighter duty 225 or 318 models typically and the 7290 is for the more performance oriented models such as the 340 and 383

Quite possible..

This is from the 68 parts book. Even though it’s commonly agreed upon that the 833 and 904 are the same length.. the book shows two different lengths for the drive shaft with a 8 3/4. Maybe the .75 difference isnt enough to be detrimental ?

This is from the 68 parts catalog. Despite commonly agreed on that the 904/833 are the same length, there’s a .75 difference in measurement. Wonder why that is and if that .75 difference is detrimental.. ride height is also a variable depending on application

I’m doing a manual swap in my 68 dart. The TKX would of been nice but the $6500 quote was a touch pill to swallow.. I managed to score a freshly rebuilt 833 4spd setup out of a 71 swinger that the owner wanted to swap to an auto.. I bought the odds and ends from brewers that I was lacking like...

It’s a 68 318. While still not ideal, it’s pre smog era

That built in fender skirt is one of the love/hate styling features of my 68 Dart.. I enjoy its styling but hate that it kills tire clearance… without modification at least. Eventually I’d like to move my springs inward to help put a meatier wheel/tire

Since acquiring my 68 Dart GT, I decided to step back from it for a lil bit. I play for my own enjoyment anyhow, figured I’d venture down this road for a while but I’ll be back

I’ve known guys who do that with guitars.. and their ad is right next to the one of the actual owner .. using the same photos even .. :rolleyes:

I’m gonna be going from power drums to manual disc in my 68 Dart.. the booster just takes up so much room around the engine are.. I figure manual disc is still a great upgrade and have more room for activities