Search results for query: t slot

That's what I was thinking too. That's why I put it as the last resort. Only do it after seeing if timing and t-slot would take care of the big difference in N to drive.

BTW In my 367, the Hughes cam (223/230/110) would idle down to 500rpm ,in gear (manual trans), and pull itself on a flat, level, hard surface. Not a lot of extra power to climb mind you. It did this with a proper T-slot sync, nearly 11/1 Scr, alloy heads, and just 5* of Idle Advance, and a...

Thank you for the info. I disagree about the intake it is not a 6500 rpm it is an idle to 5500 rpm. This is straight from Edlebrocks specs. UPC 00085347021765 Series Performer Gasket Or Seal Included No Vehicle Model Chrysler Availability Note Available to Order Warranty 12 Months Ec Basic...

...the MAB from 34 to 28 you delayed the boosters coming on, and you will be even fatter at WOT. When you delay the booster, you run out of T slot and you put a hole in the fuel curve that is hard to fill with pump shot. If you are driving on the street, I suggest using power valves. You can...

Seems like worth trying. You may have a better idea when you open it up. With a small pry bar push weights out until you see the heavy spring take up some slack. Is right at the begining, at the near the limit or something in between? Not sure whether your engine will love being started...

Yes I used 1"greenlee punch. Then I didn't pay attention to the adjusting bolt so I had to go back with a grinder to make one larger. Oh well.

It's not off track. Someone smarter than me once posted about the time it takes for the fuel to clean up is time lost in establishing good combustion. Point was that getting the idle and off idle cleaned up is definately relavant to the runs. To add to what Mderoy said. Important thing is...

Deep Roots also says to make them the same. Taking it apart again today (actually not a big deal when you have the blue nonstick gaskets, just a few screws). I may have to have the secondaries opened quite far to maintain my high rpm/low vacuum idle (remember with the 2-corner I was just...

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I have the 2ndary tslots exposed just slightly like the front and is a progressive linkage

Finally making progress on my 950 carb tune. I leaned the IFR way down (to .028). The T-slot is maybe even a little TOO lean with a tip-in flat spot. Also dropped the primary main jets 2 sizes. Now I can cruise at 3000 rpm, 15" vacuum, at 13.5. Would like to get to 14+ but I can live with that...

I'll tell what OP, that rocker clatter should not be there; you need to get that sorted, because, your cam is only a 284/484 when the lifters are working right. Also I had a 292/292/108 cam in my 360 that idled down to 600 and less in first gear with a 4-speed and 3.55s, pulling itself along...

I'd be fixing that problem first. But sounds like your making huge progress. Wanna help me on a 6 pack when your done? It's only a few 2 bbls. Just kidding. I'm impressed with you patience. Keep moving forward.

That new pressure is gonna do 4 things; 1) it will increase torque/power thru-out the rpm range; especially down low, and 2) increase your Part-Throttle response and torque at low throttle openings, and 3) the power peak will come down about 200 rpm or bit more. 4) with the Effective overlap...

...increased the 2 others by .0015. I left the PVCR where they were at .055 because I felt that was pretty close to a good starting point. I used T slot restricters at .072 and reduced the primary jets by 4 numbers and the secondary jets by 5 numbers. The IAB and MAB looked pretty good so I left...

Using the gasket on the top, which should be the correct gasket

Thanks Interesting idle-mix test; I'm gonna try that one. What I've always called the 'quick n dirty' idle check was to give the pump arm a little bump so it squirts just a little fuel in. If the idle speeds up, it's lean, and vice versa. .

My experience was that I made a lot of tests changing the IFR, then the IAB, then the IFR, then the IAB until the low speed driving seemed the best. That didn't help me understand the relationships, but some stuff posted by Shrinker and Mark did. I generally don't worry about how far in or out...

...it and all that, you still end up with a cast main body, base plate and metering block. BTW, I got burned twice using 8-32 screws for the T slot restricters. I ran into a couple of builds that needed bigger than .078ish T slot restricters and that’s about all you can get with the 8-32’s, so...

Back at it this morning. To hopefully minimize the tube denting I chose a 3 tiered approach. 1. Driver side engine mount shim 2. Grinding Borgeson box. Via text with Bergman I think we agreed on 1/8" depth of grind 3. Flatten #1 tube The passenger t bar was 1/8" from header so a radical engine...

Dude your idle is waaay too tall. Shoot for 800 rpm at hot idle, temporally plug the PVC that may be part of your problem. I assume you are running pump gas, if so forget about mixing fuels and adding snake oil to the fuel it will only make it harder to tune.. What do the plugs look like...

Don't limit the advance. Shorten the slot on the inside like Rockable did here. Then its pretty much a pre-CAP advance. Set initial in the range of a per-CAP high performance LA. 10-15 around 650 rpm. If the engine is modified, use the displacement and duration as a starting point. Refer to...

I am rereading this thread as I want to change the mechanical advance on my 340 with Edelbrock heads. I have the original Mopar electronic distributor with the slotted t-bar advance mechanism and have to weld or limit the travel of the advance plate. What I need is a guide for the length of...

Met my good buddy at our local slot car track over 35 years ago, this was where I introduced him to Chrysler’s with my Mercury Silver R/T Charger! We’re still good friends today and he’s got his own R/T Charger now plus a 2 Door Hardtop and I’m currently building my Valiant Hardtop (aka Dart)...

:poke:??? Big difference if your slipping the clutch with the engine at 900 rpm when going into 1st (almost like a truck), to blipping the throttle at a few thousand rpm shifting say 2nd to third enering a freeway. High Speed Air Bleed: 31 (stock) Idle Air Bleed Size: 71 (stock). Currently 67...

I didn't measure all the E-holes, visually they looked the same, but if one was .030 I probably wouldn't see that small of difference. I'll measure them all when I pull the carb off (getting good at that!) again. Yes current configuration is E1-blocked, E2=.028, e3=.028. I haven't even driven...

Tons of great information here Matt. I wish you were my neighbor! I really appreciate everyone’s input on this. I have quite a bit of testing to do now and will work through it when I can and try my best to report back here. I have a very bad habit of changing two or three things at a time...

Check this first. Take the carb off. See how much transfer slot is exposed on the primary side. Also if any is exposed on the secondary side - shouldn't be. But sometimes people wil l crack the secondaries open to get more air at idle and then they go to far. Write this all down and then go...