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Cheaper priced quality heads with similar flow available.

Here's the link to the Promaxx CNC heads w/specs. Interesting how the Promaxx's version of cnc's flow less than the Modern cnc Promaxx! Shocker 185 Mopar CNC (Sold in Pairs) - PROMAXX Performance Products

Sorry, it's a 585 lift cam, 1.5 crane aluminum roller rockers. Around 60% race, 40% street/show duty. I know its not the IDEAL car for the engine but it's being built to both race/show. The idea is get as fast/quick as possible with it's orig. 340 mill. I'm hoping for a 550+HP, mid-high 11 sec...

That's amazing, are they the Promaxx cnc bare heads that you got?

Yeah really. Victors, w2's, all high priced options on their own not to mention scrapping all my existing valve train, intake manifold, tti headers, etc. Not worth the cost and hassle when similar flow numbers are available from less expensive, standard valve train, standard intake, exhaust port...

The Promaxx CNC heads are an in house option of theirs. Flow specs on their website. I'll see if I can get em posted here.

Looking for advice on approximate cylinder head intake/exhaust flow reccomendations for my build: 340 block .40 over, 4.00 crank, 11:1@65cc pistons, [email protected] solid flat tappet, victor 340 intake, worked 950 Holley. Going into factory weight '71 Demon w/ss leafs, 4:30 gears, reverse manual auto...

It's a street race, full weight, restoration running pump gas, 4.30 diff, reverse manual 904, ss springs, street slicks, stepped tti's, full length dual 3" out the back

From what I gather, the 915 J heads aren't going to flow much different than the eddys if machined properly so I've gone ahead and bought a pair for $300. They are untouched from factory out of a 71 360. Im in Australia and there aren't any machine shops that are familiar with what I need to do...

From what I gather, the 915 J's aren't going to flow much different than the eddys once ported so I've gone ahead and bought them for $300. They are untouched from factory from a 71 360. Im in Australia and there aren't any machine shops that are familiar with what I need to do to them now to...

That's awesome for "mildly ported J's"! What exactly was done to them, do you have the post-porting specs? Combustion chamber cc's, Intake valves, etc?

Ok, is that with cast heads? Factory or ported? X or J?

Does anyone have experience stroking a .40 over 340 with a 4.00 forged crankshaft, scat rods, 585 lift cam, Victor 340 intake, 11:1 Diamonds, worked 950 Holley, etc using ported J heads? What would be the HP limitation by using these? Only asking because I have the chance to save over $1k by...

Sure. The devil is in the details. Thanks!

Thanks. Is your 340 a stroker? What rpm are you shifting at? My cam lists power btwn 3500-7500 but its my understanding that because its stroked, it will actually build power at lower rpm... what's a safe high rpm shift point IYO?

TBH, I've never heard the term DCR before it was mentioned here. All I can say is thanks for the tip. My combo is for the most part a fingers crossed, best guess. That's why I'm putting it out here for advice. Tuning is not something I want to be sweating after my build so yes, a high or even...

Ok maybe I'm not clear on it then. The pump unleaded here is 98 octane so I felt safe with a higher compression motor. Its mainly gonna be towed to the track and maybe a few shows

Well, the shop will do a complete port job on the eddy heads but I'm a little disappointed at the low 8's DCR to be honest.

That think I follow you for the most part. So the DCM would probably be higher than 8:1 then with the 51010's and a zeroed deck?

Literally rare as hen's teeth to find here in Melbourne Australia.

Looking at either the dia51010 or dia51009... only difference is the pin size and I have no idea which to go with. These had the highest compression figures of any 40 over stroker pistons I could find... Diamond Racing Pistons Mopar 340 Forged Piston set, flat top, 4.080" bore (.040" over stock...

Too many people on here with positive results for me not to go for it. So I'm sleeving the one cylinder and going .040 over with a stroked crank, 10.9:1 diamonds (highest compression 40 over stroker pistons I could find), ported eddy's, victor 340, Holly 950... I'm thinking the MP Purple...

Easy to say if you can afford to pay for mistakes! I'm not as financially well off as most people playing with these toys. Ive had to save for years to do this so I damn well want to be sure I make the right decision. But thanks for your 2 cents anyway champ!

Sounds like good build. What combo?

That's sounds like a good approach, especially if they can stop drill the crack. How about the water around the crack? Even though it won't be an issue in the cylinder anymore, wont stop drilling both ends of the crack create 2 more places for water to escape the jacket and seep into the void...

Th They feel that the crack will create an issue weakening the block's strength, rigidity, etc. and may allow movement resulting in more drama. They are confident the sleeve will cure the cylinder issue though.

Very concise, thank you. I'm confident enough that a properly done sleeve will handle the heat and pressure of the combustion. Would the crack in the block, behind the sleeve be a weak point for other stresses/forces the block is subjected to? The machinist mentioned twisting.

Thanks for your opinion buddy!

The sleeve is not my worry, the crack's compromise to the integrity of the block is.

What size intake valves on heads? No cracks, issues with them?