yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
If you used a .300 wall sleeve it means you had a sleeve almost 5/8 inch bigger than the bore. You would have had to have bored the entire cylinder away.
Advice on stroker build with cracked cylinder
- Thread starter moparodbuster
- Start date
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If you used a .300 wall sleeve it means you had a sleeve almost 5/8 inch bigger than the bore. You would have had to have bored the entire cylinder away.
BigBlockMopar
BigBlockMember
I think I messed up the wall thickness/sizing or the sleeve wasn't made for a stock bore. At least I recall we had to bore the cylinder to 4.5" (from 4.35" / .030 440) for the sleeve to fit.
We bored the sleeve back up to .030" overbore afterwards to match with the rest of the block.
We bored the sleeve back up to .030" overbore afterwards to match with the rest of the block.
jos51700
Green Bearing thread connoisseur
Stop drill, tig weld with stainless, then sleeve the ***** and run it.
If I was building a badass motor and cost was no object, I'd sleeve every hole.
Top fuel cars do it. Street cars do it. Sleeves are awesome. Uniform wall thickness, you KNOW exactly how much material is there. Better control over the material uniformity. And it costs more, so it must be good.
If I was building a badass motor and cost was no object, I'd sleeve every hole.
Top fuel cars do it. Street cars do it. Sleeves are awesome. Uniform wall thickness, you KNOW exactly how much material is there. Better control over the material uniformity. And it costs more, so it must be good.
Negative. These blocks just are not worth all the trouble. They are a dime a dozen.
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
340 or 360 in Australia Rusty
I usually do not just hone sleeve to size
I chuck them in the jig and bore them straight with the cam and crank (and hopefully deck)
not often but often enough I have found the sleeve was not true
you have to bore the block B 4 sleeving anyway
on the other hand
Back at the 62 AHRA nationals in Cado Mills Texas Zane Shubert had Chet Herbert's brand new twin chevy 452 engines
these were the first 63 model year 327 blocks and were bored to 4 1/8 - they cracked
The team went to a gas station and sleeved all the holes with a kwik way working off the deck (which was correct) that plus block fill
Zane went on to win Top fuel when all the Chryslers went up in smoke on the greasy track- Lefty won top gas
lots of sportsmanship at this meet One racer loaned Zane's competition a top gas blown Chrysler so there would be a race and a show for the crowd.- miss those days
I was helping Lefty in the twin 4x4 383 chevies and we both had to tighten up the clearance on the "400 Degree" rollers and take the stacks off the injectors to kill the low end
I usually do not just hone sleeve to size
I chuck them in the jig and bore them straight with the cam and crank (and hopefully deck)
not often but often enough I have found the sleeve was not true
you have to bore the block B 4 sleeving anyway
on the other hand
Back at the 62 AHRA nationals in Cado Mills Texas Zane Shubert had Chet Herbert's brand new twin chevy 452 engines
these were the first 63 model year 327 blocks and were bored to 4 1/8 - they cracked
The team went to a gas station and sleeved all the holes with a kwik way working off the deck (which was correct) that plus block fill
Zane went on to win Top fuel when all the Chryslers went up in smoke on the greasy track- Lefty won top gas
lots of sportsmanship at this meet One racer loaned Zane's competition a top gas blown Chrysler so there would be a race and a show for the crowd.- miss those days
I was helping Lefty in the twin 4x4 383 chevies and we both had to tighten up the clearance on the "400 Degree" rollers and take the stacks off the injectors to kill the low end
famous bob
mopar misfit
if u can find one around here , they want big bucks for them, and not many either.
I was told by a long time and fairly successful superstock racer, that a trick was to sleeve all cylinders in a new build.
I spent my whole 1 week vacation one summer pinning the hemi block, where I forgot to drain the block the previous winter, it and the two sleeves in 5 and 7 cyldrs, are still holding up today in a street car.
moparodbuster
moparodbuster
Too many people on here with positive results for me not to go for it. So I'm sleeving the one cylinder and going .040 over with a stroked crank, 10.9:1 diamonds (highest compression 40 over stroker pistons I could find), ported eddy's, victor 340, Holly 950... I'm thinking the MP Purple 4120657AE mechanical flat 312/312, Lift .590/.590 will get the most out of the combo BUT thought I'd ask here and maybe in another post to get advice on the camshaft because I'm only educated guessing the whole build... mostly from the hours of reading fabo topics, posts, arguments, experiences, etc. The experienced posts on here is priceless.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
We 'live on the edge' here... welcome aboard. Besides, how can you build a great wealth of engine stories if you don't do stuff like this? LOL
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
BTW, are those pistons the Diamond S1010 model? If you take those and 63 to 65 cc heads, and deck the block around .020" to get quench, then the SCR will run up in the mid 11's but the DCR may work out decently around 8.0 with that big of a cam.
The 4 bolt blocks bring more but for just a run of the mill 2 bolt like I am using, they are in the 100 dollar range.
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
Try and find a camgrinder that really knows MOPARS
not that the MOPAR PERFORMANCE is not a good cam if the specs are right for your build, gears, use, etc
much better than any .842 lifter cam
not as good as a modern .904 cam
do get the quench right
not that the MOPAR PERFORMANCE is not a good cam if the specs are right for your build, gears, use, etc
much better than any .842 lifter cam
not as good as a modern .904 cam
do get the quench right
moparodbuster
moparodbuster
Looking at either the dia51010 or dia51009... only difference is the pin size and I have no idea which to go with. These had the highest compression figures of any 40 over stroker pistons I could find...
Diamond Racing Pistons Mopar 340 Forged Piston set, flat top, 4.080" bore (.040" over stock size), 4.000" long stroker, 6.123" rod, 10.9-1 compression with a 65cc chamber. This set uses a .984" dia. stock small block Mopar size piston pin. Piston set includes pistons, piston pins and spiro locks.
moparodbuster
moparodbuster
Literally rare as hen's teeth to find here in Melbourne Australia.
moper
Well-Known Member
Sleeve it as RAMM said - it will be fine. Sleeve it with old equipment and less skill, it won't. Pretty simple really.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Looked at it this AM... IIRC, the 51009 uses a GM .927" diameter pin. So it just depends on the rods you use. The larger pin is the standard Mopar pin size, and would match up with the standard SBM rod length of 6.123" that you list. Seems logical to proceed on that path.
The SCR (static compression ratio) that you refer to works with the cam and other setup factors to set your DCR, dynamic compression ratio. That is the real determinant of what fuel you can, or need, to use. 8:1 is what I came up with using the parameters that I listed and can be run on pump fuel with some reasonable tuning care. The suggestion for milling the deck block down was to obtain a 'quench gap; that was figured at .039", achieved with the deck milled so the piston tops come up even with the top of the deck ('zero-decked') and using a .039" Felpro head gasket. Effective 'quench' a helps fight detonation tendencies, and helps combustion.
And stop me from blathering on if you know all of this! I just saw that level of SCR, and wanted to check to see where you would end up for DCR.
moparodbuster
moparodbuster
That think I follow you for the most part. So the DCM would probably be higher than 8:1 then with the 51010's and a zeroed deck?
Man, tons and tons of people have been BEATEN by combos that use the exact opposites of everything you've mentioned here. There are certain advantages to a different style lobe in a Mopar. It is all combo dependent. Trying to lay down one set of rules doesn't work, because somebody will come along and break them.
moper
Well-Known Member
x2...
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
With the following:
- Zero decked 51010 pistons
- .039" Felpro 1008 head gasket
- 65 cc chambers (63 cc chamber Edelbrocks with the valve area worked and adding 2 cc's, NOT the 65 cc Edelbrock with the open chamber design)
- Add 1 cc or so for volume down to the top ring
- then SCR is 11.5
Set aside some $$ for more rear tires.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
And, IMHO, your biggest challenge to getting to the proposed HP level is the heads..... which you probably well know.
moparodbuster
moparodbuster
Well, the shop will do a complete port job on the eddy heads but I'm a little disappointed at the low 8's DCR to be honest.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
??? What were you wanting/expecting? Are you planning on running race fuel?
Perhaps there is a communications issue on what it is and means. Low to mid 8's DCR is doably safe for pump fuel, WITH AL heads, but is not 'low' for DCR, in fact is it on the high end for DCR, for pump fuel use. Stock stuff was typically in the mid to upper 6's.
That level of DCR is not good for the lazy hot-rodder; you have to pay close attention to detailed tuning. If you go too high on DCR, or mistune a high DCR engine, then the engine's combustion will reach detonation conditions, and quickly self-destruct. It will melt/crack/break pistons tops and shatter piston rings.
Again, forgive me if I am blathering on too much LOL
Perhaps there is a communications issue on what it is and means. Low to mid 8's DCR is doably safe for pump fuel, WITH AL heads, but is not 'low' for DCR, in fact is it on the high end for DCR, for pump fuel use. Stock stuff was typically in the mid to upper 6's.
That level of DCR is not good for the lazy hot-rodder; you have to pay close attention to detailed tuning. If you go too high on DCR, or mistune a high DCR engine, then the engine's combustion will reach detonation conditions, and quickly self-destruct. It will melt/crack/break pistons tops and shatter piston rings.
Again, forgive me if I am blathering on too much LOL
moparodbuster
moparodbuster
Ok maybe I'm not clear on it then. The pump unleaded here is 98 octane so I felt safe with a higher compression motor. Its mainly gonna be towed to the track and maybe a few shows
604B1duster
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Ok, so a good thick sleeve, done properly is the way to go.
This Chrysler Big-Block Has A Twist - Windows In The Block![/QUOTE]
Have you guys read this ?
OMG Ramm ain’t playing around !!!
This Chrysler Big-Block Has A Twist - Windows In The Block![/QUOTE]
Have you guys read this ?
OMG Ramm ain’t playing around !!!
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