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:thumbsup:

Very cool story, Stan! Thanks for sharing!

273 head gaskets are no longer available, you will have to use 318 ones or have Cometic make custom ones..$$$$

I understand. I forget sometimes other people actually have lives. lol

Hey Rusty, I’ve been lurking! Just busy with life outside of car stuff unfortunately. Still plugging away here and there on the valiant when I can.

Do you plan on removing engine to take to rebuilder? If so remove the valve covers and take pics. Lots of knowledgable people that can help you. There are nuances to these engines, make sure this engine rebuilder is knowledgable on mopars. Maybe post a thread looking for someone in Spokane area...

Mike, that was very generous of you.

I stuck a scope down a few of the cylinder heads. From what I could see, the pistons had two indents for the valves confirming it is a commando engine. The back three cylinders with the low compression had huge carbon deposits on top of the pistons. Might have to tear it apart....

That's gorgeous! Nice work!

Nothing to the car right yet, but I'm building "Cheap & Nasty", my 225 low buck turbo build. https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/project-cheap-nasty-updated-with-back-story.571696/

DoctorDiff sells one if you’re not worried about matching the appearance Bendix Style Dual Diaphragm Booster for Mopars That said, is the booster working? Because I wouldn’t tear it down and rebuild it if it’s still working. And of course there’s always just going manual brakes. I had power...

At 8:07 in the video they are using what I'll describe as a ring clamp to hold the two pieces of the nose together. Does anyone know what they are or what they are called? Pretty slick tool for fast part clamping.

I’m not sure, and to be honest I wouldn’t know what I’m looking at —- or Maybe I would, but then what —- I’ve never worked engine internals I’m probably gonna get it into a reputable engine rebuilder in Spokane and have him look at top end and possibly fix what the issue(s) are I’ve got so much...

That looks like a good fit! I assume this is mockup. You could easily set up a port a power with the engine out of the way and gently push that inner fender out a tad away from that header, I bet. It wouldn't take much at all.

I used a hole saw. Then light file and sand paper. But have the rubber

Might be able to put something like a strip of aluminum like soda can in the hole then thread it in?

@j_anderson

I'll pm you.

He has been absolutely fantastic to me each time I’m on the phone with him. Super duper helpful. R-fish endorsed w/5 stars.

The original owner Is Mike G. Same as the name on the title. He was also in Calimesa and is 85 years old and now lives in Utah.. If he is still alive. This car has only been registered to him and is not the same guy that i bought it from.. although he and Bob are both about the same age...

Check the MoPar engines book for spring specs and then make a cross over to another manufacturer if they are not available. The book gives the open and closed pressures at the suggested spring height stalled and at a certain lift. Spring pressure rates are also n the book. It should be fairly...

Thanks buddy. I Appreciate it. I was just tired and wrote the reply without reading it. Hit a wrong key and words get added in. Skip a letter and the word changes. Ugh. Fixed it.

C'back still not getting it........ THE BATTERY IS DISCHRGED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Yes, 12.2v might be enough to crank the engine when cold. Factors such as the CCA rating of the battery, how old it is, etc play a part in how much reserve the bat has left. And yes, too...

The title states it was registered from August 2005 -2006. just checked with Been Verified and according to them it is a 1 owner car with dates that match the title. 2006. I'll try to get a hold of the owner and get more info. My son picked the car up for me and probably didn't ask all of the...

You are thinking of Dan Dvorak, he passed a couple years ago. Went by his shop near Starke, FL a couple of days ago and it looks sad all overgrown with his old motorhome rusting away and two Mopar wagons out front. It has a for sale sign on it...

I ordered that Lisle 55600 tool. Should be here tomorrow. If it doesn't work I'll try the drill method. The Lisle website says it's for brass and bronze bushings not steel. I'm pretty sure the bushing is cast iron so hopefully it'll be able to bite a few threads.

Is it Devorak? Could be wrong, but I thought he passed....

Hurray!!! A few smart people get it [ what the 050 number can tell you ] but Newbomb Turk is not one of them. Post #299 by NBT is typical of somebody who loses the argument, unable to use reason & logic, & so resorts to crude vulgarity as we see in post #299. And I NEVER said seat/adv timing...

Seems drilling and tapping two holes in that bushing would be easy. Then just use a puller. Great idea.

Does it have stock paddle style rockers and valve gear? I'd snatch a valve cover and make sure the rockers and rocker shafts are installed correctly and all the spacers on the shaft bolts are in the correct places. I've seen incorrectly installed rocker assemblies get chewed up on the sides...