Metal in oil

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My questions...


Motor has 17,000 miles on per OP. What has changed?? Was it like this last change? What would be wearing out so long after the build? Did it sit for a long time? Is it diluted oil?
yes 17,000 total miles on crate motor.
I’m second owner since build, it had 10,000 miles on it when I purchased it.
I changed oil promptly and switched to Amsoil Z-Rod — PO was using Driven with Zinc. And did a proper break in. He’s on FABO as “ Cuda 36” and documented the build in “ restorations” … car was a SOCAL slant6
At that time I also added magnetic oil plug
Pics show last 2 oil changes, Nov of 23 and Nov of 24 each with just over 2500 miles.
Car never sits long … I drive it 7 days a week except in winter where it may sit like a couple of weeks to a month due to snow.
Hope this helps.
I mean should I have the cam pulled and investigate?
I’m not a guy that can do that work, although I do a lot just not internals —— I’m leaning that way.
I’m festitous on Oil Level
Shouldn’t be diluted
 
yes 17,000 total miles on crate motor.
I’m second owner since build, it had 10,000 miles on it when I purchased it.
I changed oil promptly and switched to Amsoil Z-Rod — PO was using Driven with Zinc. And did a proper break in. He’s on FABO as “ Cuda 36” and documented the build in “ restorations” … car was a SOCAL slant6
At that time I also added magnetic oil plug
Pics show last 2 oil changes, Nov of 23 and Nov of 24 each with just over 2500 miles.
Car never sits long … I drive it 7 days a week except in winter where it may sit like a couple of weeks to a month due to snow.
Hope this helps.
I mean should I have the cam pulled and investigate?
I’m not a guy that can do that work, although I do a lot just not internals —— I’m leaning that way.
I’m festitous on Oil Level
Shouldn’t be diluted
Does it have stock paddle style rockers and valve gear? I'd snatch a valve cover and make sure the rockers and rocker shafts are installed correctly and all the spacers on the shaft bolts are in the correct places. I've seen incorrectly installed rocker assemblies get chewed up on the sides before. That's one possible source.
 
Does it have stock paddle style rockers and valve gear? I'd snatch a valve cover and make sure the rockers and rocker shafts are installed correctly and all the spacers on the shaft bolts are in the correct places. I've seen incorrectly installed rocker assemblies get chewed up on the sides before. That's one possible source.
I’m not sure, and to be honest I wouldn’t know what I’m looking at —- or Maybe I would, but then what —- I’ve never worked engine internals
I’m probably gonna get it into a reputable engine rebuilder in Spokane and have him look at top end and possibly fix what the issue(s) are
I’ve got so much into other upgrades ( Suspension / Fuel / Exterior/ wiring) that I wanna get to bottom of this.
Car runs like a beast and is a blast but something doesn’t sit right with me about the Metal Fuzz on magnet, especially since it’s not a fresh motor at 17,000 miles
Lots of good responses here that give me a baseline knowledge to speak to with a rebuilder.
Hopefully they can do work with engine in car if not to extensive
 
Do you plan on removing engine to take to rebuilder? If so remove the valve covers and take pics. Lots of knowledgable people that can help you.
There are nuances to these engines, make sure this engine rebuilder is knowledgable on mopars.
Maybe post a thread looking for someone in Spokane area to come take a look at engine for you? Cost of a few beers and lunch. Make a new friend and gain some insight.
 
Do you plan on removing engine to take to rebuilder? If so remove the valve covers and take pics. Lots of knowledgable people that can help you.
There are nuances to these engines, make sure this engine rebuilder is knowledgable on mopars.
Maybe post a thread looking for someone in Spokane area to come take a look at engine for you? Cost of a few beers and lunch. Make a new friend and gain some insight.
No I won’t be pulling motor .
WAY beyond my capabilities.
Valve covers ? -yes - pics etc-
I like your way of thinking. I actually have a good set of Valve cover gaskets here —- was gonna go after cleaning bulkhead connectors soon and need to remove drivers side anyway for access.
I’ll pull both and inspect / take pics and try to coordinate with someone knowledgeable and willing

I will do a post per your advice for a local Mopar guy. I like it .
 
Yep, post pics of valve train here in this post to keep it
I would be leery of driving it until the issue is resolved, just to be safe.
No I won’t be pulling motor .
WAY beyond my capabilities.
Valve covers ? -yes - pics etc-
I like your way of thinking. I actually have a good set of Valve cover gaskets here —- was gonna go after cleaning bulkhead connectors soon and need to remove drivers side anyway for access.
I’ll pull both and inspect / take pics and try to coordinate with someone knowledgeable and willing

I will do a post per your advice for a local Mopar guy. I like it .
 
No I won’t be pulling motor .
WAY beyond my capabilities.
Valve covers ? -yes - pics etc-
I like your way of thinking. I actually have a good set of Valve cover gaskets here —- was gonna go after cleaning bulkhead connectors soon and need to remove drivers side anyway for access.
I’ll pull both and inspect / take pics and try to coordinate with someone knowledgeable and willing

I will do a post per your advice for a local Mopar guy. I like it .
If you can pull a valve cover, you can pull an engine. Don't be ridiculous. These cars are OLD and SIMPLE. Get you a factory service manual and READ it cover to cover. You'll see how easy it is. Didn't you learn to read and write? Wasn't that over your head before you learned?
 
i know that valve springs and dampners wear metal, into engine, i installed pot holder magnets in drainback hole in heads, takes 7 in each head, i no longer have metal in the pan, it cured the problem. when i pull covers off, they are covered with metal, pull and clean them. simple fix. just food for thought. my race engine and my 273 street engine have them in the heads.
 
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