Search results for query: timing chain

Ive got a 69 340. I just pulled everything off a newer 318 timing chain cover damper pulleys and the newer water pump everything works fine. Power steering alternator timing marks

...and still runs better than most with 10,000 miles. Built in the 70’s with the bolt with the hole and a Direct Connection double roller timing chain. Car lived from FL to SD. And from the stories was never babied, cruised at 100 mph all day long, and has been up to 140 mph. The 273 is...

No, you're fine. Put a new seal in the timing cover and test fit the balancer if you'd like. Should fit fine.

Not at all likely(and how would that affect only cyl #4?) Probably a bent valve in number 4 cyl. And not likely bent “just a little bit” either. A relatively easy visual inspection for that is to look across the tops of the retainers for that side after removing the rocker shaft. You’re looking...

Had a Ford 289 loose nylon teeth, needless to say a bunch of bent valves and pushrods. If it was me... I would reseal the engine, replace the timing chain, at a minimum. There will / might be front accessory drive parts to get

...will cause the intake valve to close sooner and closing the valve sooner helps build cylinder pressure and increase pressure equals an increase in both torque and power, how much difference I don't know but since your installing a new timing chain why not Advance the cam. Every little bit helps

How much slop was in the timing chain? I had a similar problem on the 340 of timing all over the place, used 4 different lights to check. Have a MSD mechanical distributor and no vacuum leeks. Turns out the “top of the line” chain was junk after about 20 hours of run time. New timing set from...

Time to do some diagnostics. 1st, if the timing marks are on TDC, and the rotor points where it shows in the picture, and the wires are in the cap as the factory installed them (#1 being near the locating tab on the dist) the timing is way off. I would pull the plugs, and move the damper back...

Almost seems like something got into the carb... could be water, idle circuit plugged, etc

Do you need just the bolts for all 3 or do you also need the timing chain cover? I don't think I have the bolts but do have the small block timing chain cover.

I've also had good luck out of the Edelbrock timing sets. I've had one in the 360 in my Challenger forever, and when I put a new fuel pump on it a year or so ago, the chain is still tight.

No, I'm lying... :thumbsup:

okay got it all apart, now just waiting on the mail man to pick up his pace ha. for reference in the pictures the chain has 1/2 in slack side to side from where my finger is at. am i the only one who feels like this is a lot for a new timing set? (comp cams double roller single bolt chain set)...

all the goodies under the timing cover: OEM pump eccentric & bolt/washer, thrust plate, bolts, chain drip tab, fuel pump bolts. all parts are factory original, no offshore junk, no hardware store bs. cleaned and inspected, ready to go. $70 shipped

Thank-you. Lotsa opinions, lotsa minutiae, I have many "strange" things I do in engine prep. What h/p they add individually, prob unmeasurable, but together, they seem to get the job done. Next time I build a gear-drive, 6000+ rpm engine, I'ma gonna drill a hole,. Thnx again, sincerely, luv...

On my 340, draining the radiator allows access to the manifold fittings w/o leaking, but draining the block is required to access the timing chain cover if that needs replacing. The block drain plugs are most likely frozen in place so take the lower bolts off the TC cover and water will drain...

Are those as good as they say that they are?

At this point, it seems certain that one of the timing chains is knocking around in there (maybe due to a failed tensioner or guide?). The chain obviously hasn't broken yet (it runs smooth and no code). I'm not going to attempt this myself, so I'm going to bring it to a mechanic tomorrow to see...

LOL

Thanks. I typically take the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" stand but a timing chain can go from a 60.00 part to a 4000.00 rebuilt engine in a heart beat. You sound like you have had that happen.

No. When I saw it loose I expected to find broken bits of tensioner in the pan. But nothing. And all my YouTube searches show no tensioner

Loose timing chain??

if the timing chain/cam isn't way out of degree i'm next to assume the cam/lifters ate eachother so i'll inspect every cam lobe and lifter face. if everything is good there im not sure what i could check. i'll probably buy a fuel pressure gauge to install and watch and check running temps of the...

check out the pics i posted in this thread of the chain slack and let me know what you think. i wasn't sure how to tag anybody in my response lol

...I can tell). My first car back in the mid 1970s was a 1966 Plymouth Barracuda. I've spent the last couple of weeks swapping out the timing chain and sprockets and have found lots of valuable help on this sight! I was nearly done last night and realized that I had installed a new water pump...

So I pulled the engine and the 46rh today . I haven’t pulled the timing chain cover off yet but I do see that it has a cover with provisions for a mechanical fuel pump and a block off plate . Which leads me to hope that it might have a snouted cam .

72 340 warranty std bore the date 2.11.72 has no vins on the pads Come with new custom grind 68 4 spd specs, Crank 10/10, new timing chain, and some gaskets, comp cam push rods and melling oil pump and block need bore to .20 over I suggest this. Try my best upload several photos. Anyhow I am...

i would swap the camshaft, the intake, carb and a new double roller timing chain set at the same time. Your adding more fuel and air but your camshaft can’t benefit from the upgrades truly with that stock camshaft. Trust me you’ll want more............

It looks like a factory style with nylon teeth. Personally I don't run any that have the nylon teeth. Not sure what is available for Slants, but I would try not to. The nylon is junk