Particular situation on a new rebuilt block need help!

[J.B.]

Ok so i purchased a fully rebuilt 1973 340 that has 1969 internals specifically speaking 1969 crank. Now lets take a pause. I have a 1971 Dodge Demon which has radiator outlet to water pump on passenger side. The water pump same. Now going back to the crank. The crank pulley’s i know are different in depth 1969 and older are shorter in depth to match its water pump, and the 1970 and newer are longer. Same for the water pumps they are thinner and iron in 1969 and older and the 1970 and newer aluminum are thicker. Now with all that being said. This crank is really ******* up my world. Converting to the aluminum water pump has me losing the timing marks so i got a timing tape and some fluorescent paint to flip marks to other-side of damper. My question is will the 1970 and newer pulley work on my 1969 damper? I have heard the pulley bolt holes dont all align as one is offset is this true? If thats the case in order to keep everything 70’s up can i change damper to a 70’s and up external damper. Will the damper work with 69 crank?

 

[HemiSSDart]

69 and 71-2 used a forged crank, 73 used a cast crank. 69 and earlier use the cast iron water pump, 70-up used the aluminum water pump. You need the pulley's from a 70-71 and early 72 forged crank to work. The 69 pulleys will not work.

 

[J.B.]

69 and 71-2 used a forged crank, 73 used a cast crank. 69 and earlier use the cast iron water pump, 70-up used the aluminum water pump. You need the pulley's from a 70-71 and early 72 forged crank to work. The 69 pulleys will not work.

I know i have all the 70’s and up items except crank pulley. My question is will a 1970’s crank pulley bolt onto a 1969 Damper?

 

[duster 344]

Ive got a 69 340. I just pulled everything off a newer 318 timing chain cover damper pulleys and the newer water pump everything works fine. Power steering alternator timing marks

 

[67Dart273]

The crank and damper are not the problem. You can stick the newer or older timing cover/ pulleys/ etc on the front with no issues. Some years have a symmetrical pattern for the pulley bolt holes, and some do not. It is common to either leave the odd bolt out or oblong the hole in the pulley

The timing mark is easy to deal with. Use a piston stop. In fact this would be a great time to degree your balancer.

Piston Stop Advice

Anyone ever use a Piston Stop tool? If so how did you like using it and what brand did you purchase?

www.forabodiesonly.com

Remove battery ground for safety, and get a socket for the balancer bolt. Use a probe "roughly" to make sure the no1 piston is down far enough. Install the stop device and wrench the engine around carefully until rotation is stopped by the device. Make a temp mark under TDC on your (new) pointer. Rotate engine backwards again until it stops. Make a second mark under TDC.

You will have two marks some distance apart. TDC is halfway between.

To degree, use a small flex tape (lying under car is sometimes actually easier) and measure carefully around damper rim. Figure out how many degrees per inch, and then carefully measure off that amount and mark something like 20 or 40 degrees. RE RE check this CAREFULLY

Now, using dividers directly on the wheel, you can dived this 20 or 40 and extend or divide from there. Divide again to mark 10 degree points, etc. Use a small square and scribe, then a small file, etc to mark.

If you have numerical stamps you can mark, say, 20 and 40 and eyeball from there

 

[cudamark]

I know i have all the 70’s and up items except crank pulley. My question is will a 1970’s crank pulley bolt onto a 1969 Damper?

'71 and earlier use the same crank pulley bolt pattern (one staggered hole) '72 and newer use the symetrical bolt pattern. To mix and match, just elongate that one hole, as the factory did on replacement pulleys.