Search results for query: timing chain

A few repeats here. - Better lifter angle - no chamfer on the top of the lifter bores - dry intake system - ability to swap the timing chain and cam without pulling the pan and cover - slightly taller heads to get better intake and exhaust runners - W2 or similar exhaust port - all blind bolt holes

At 9:1......a MEASURED 9:1 and not "bench racin" 9:1, I'd go 4 degrees advanced. That would be 105 ICL.

That ‘87 318 is a good motor, especially if it’s a roller. Put a good intake, carb, headers, mild cam and dual timing chain with a metal gear on it and it will move that Dart around just fine. If you decide on the 360 just remember it’s externally balanced and the 318 is internally balanced

smart play. hope the rest of the assembly goes swimmingly!

They have the key to do it IF the set you have now is machined correctly. Here's how it works. If a timing set is machined DEAD ON when you install the timing set dot to dot, it would be in correctly. Modern cams are ground with the advance already in the cam. The whole reason for degreeing is...

Doesn’t matter if it’s a timing chain or gear drive, I always drill and tap the cam plate for 10/32 and I drill a Holley air bleed to about .040ish and screw it into the plate. I also screw the jet in from the back.

I will do that! thanks for the tip!

Is that some kind of small block supremacist comment

I am looking for the early style timing chain cover with the bolt on style timing indicator on the pass side for my 1968 340. Thanks! Chris

I have a 1967 barracuda with a 318 LA block and I feel that my timing is off and was wanting some help. I have set the timing chain up dot to dot with the crank at 12 and the cam at 6 o'clock positions with the distributor pointing at number 1 cylinder. The car has fire, compression and fuel but...

all the tasty bits from under the timing cover: used OEM pump eccentric & bolt/washer, thrust plate, bolts, chain drip tab, oil slinger and fuel pump bolts. all parts are factory original, no offshore junk, no hardware store bs. cleaned and inspected, ready to go. eccentric shows a visual wear...

They should be higher. I can think of maybe a couple reasons why they aren't. If you didn't warm the engine to the same condition as the first time. Or, if you retarded the cam timing instead. Don't scoff at that. Even some of the most seasoned engine builders have made that mistake.

Anyone know if the Mancini Racing Timing cover will work with the 65 dart? the only difference I can tell is the timing gauge is molded in to the cover and the original was bolted on. Any info will be appreciated. My timing cover is corroded probably past repair.

Can someone explain this intake CL. Once verified, understand timing is dot to dot. If not, cam can be adjusted accordingly with keyway timing chain set.

I have a hard time believing that any timing chain, true roller, untrue roller or link type would be in 'good condition' after 150,000 miles.

So it looks like my timing chain is bad. Below is the only photo I took when I had the engine "apart". Back I didn't notice significant slack, so I just left it like it was. Anyways, there was some fluctuation on the timing light and when adjusting the idle mixture with a vacuum gauge. So today...

Help Please.......... I had my engine at TDC for Cyl #1 and just removed the Timing Chain and gears. Both the Markings were at 12 o'clock. I did a Boo Boo, Huh? it should have been TDC on #6 I think????? What should I do to fix this situation? (FYI, Engin is In the truck and it Very hard to get...

Not degreeing a cam is a huge mistake a lot of guys make. You can never assume it's going to be even close. If you put a lower cost timing chain in they will stretch and you'll lose 2-3 degrees within a 100 miles. You don't have to pull the heads to degree a cam, but that's the first place I...

another set of the tasty bits from under the timing cover: used OEM pump eccentric & bolt/washer, thrust plate, bolts, chain drip tab, and fuel pump bolts. all parts are factory original, no offshore junk, no hardware store bs. cleaned and inspected, ready to go. **this set does not include...

Good Used 1958 to 1978 Big Block Single Bolt Steel Gear Timing Set. Includes cam gear, crankshaft gear, chain, bolt, washer, and oil slinger. Everything is in very good condition, just needs a cleanup, as they have been sitting on a shelf in my garage for many years. $25.00. Local pickup, or...

I used to think that but virtu every engine I take apart the chain is junk. I just throw a tensioner on it and send it back out. Ive seen SBC TC&G be shot in under a couple of thousand miles.

My Harley uses a nylon chain tensioner, replacement cycle is 25-30000 miles. Too many twin cam engines have had failures with tensioners. I don’t run them on my small block LA or big block RB motors. I really don’t think they hurt or help, but my opinion is why put another wear component inside...

So I was under the understanding that you shouldn't run both for what ever reason? I like the idea of this but have been told by others on the forum that it's not a good combo. I have a new one I could use....

When I checked the slack in Bazza's 318 last summer I ran across a little tidbit of information (here or elsewhere, I don't recall) that said that if there was 5* of "slop" between the timing marks when you rotate it backwards and forwards, it's worn-out. Not sure if that was "By the Book", but...

Millions and millions of cars have been running around for billions of miles with that much or significantly more slop in the timing chain set for the last sixty years with no negative effect. I bet you can't see any variation in the timing at idle and under load it sure isn't going to cause a...

This thread, post 22 shows the bolt hole that can damage the cylinder wall if a bolt is too long, and a measurement. Uh oh, power steering bolt broke into number one cylinder?

Finally, the timing chain and gears arrived now that I have my Duster on my lift. Oh well next week's project.

That's as quite interesting timing cover, where did it come from? I didn't see a small block one one AR's website.

Just a driver? Drop the pan, check the bearings, timing chain and maybe a rear seal. Learned that one the hard way with an Olds 307Y that I put into an Electra I had from great aunt. Most other stuff can be done while the engine is in the car.

I wanted a belt or gear drive too but that wasn't in my budget. Wish my timing chain set would get here so I can start working on this motor again.