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I thought I would share this conversation I had with the vet clinic yesterday. Good for a laugh, if not anything. *ring-ring* "How may I help you?" "My dog died last night and I was wondering if you could connect me with someone who could take his body for cremation." "Oh, I see. Were you...

I have to have two drinks in me to do that and i paused drinkin 15yrs ago so I need a bottle before I start posting ????

Another welcome from the Island!:canada::thumbsup:

Had to think about it but I am special. My name is in the phonebook I'm somebody!!!

Krylon International Harvester Red in their Farm Implement paint. It's a dead match. I have OReilly get it when I need some. This is it. PAINT

Just curious what you consider a good ignition and what's a bad ignition setup?

Correct. Just a standard fine thread nut. It won't back off. That conical washer acts as a "spring" and compresses slightly when the nut is torqued. That, plus the slight stretch of the stud keeps the nut tight. None of them need lock washers.

Badly. But engine has just 182k in it. Which I believe given the condition. Runs strong, pulled the pan and valve covers, no sign of distress or wear

Good. We're trying to help. You need to turn your brain off and listen.

So, you're going to arbitrarily just decide how thick the shims need to be? That's not very smart. Call Mike at B3 Racing Engines. He will tell you exactly how to find the correct thickness that you need.

so, just a regular nut? seems like it would back off, but then seems like they would all back off without a lock washer.

That was the best link hook up I have ever gotten after reading the tech articles I called him and we were finishing each others sentences lol . After years of research I got more info in the 15 min call THANK YOU!!!

So it was rusted....lol

Just pull the seal out and measure it. And then as I mentioned, go to your local transmission shop. They should be able to supply it for you.

i found one in my shed thanks anyway

My post says. 1966-1972: 2.254" OD. NO dust boot. Our part number was 12925C. That was the number we used out of our transmission parts catalog. I briefly worked for another transmission parts supplier and they used the same number. Was there another number you were looking for?

"...mini tubbed..." ? More like "missing tubbed", if you ask me! :lol: (Since I'm "pointing fingers", I sure hope this isn't yours!)

Agree with French demon. That style nut doesn't belong there.

They are...the tube on certain Holleys is too long to fit with the seals...you have to use the o-rings... ...and yes, the o-rings on the needle-seat assembly need to be replaced if hard...will cause flooding no matter how far you screw the assembly in...just went through this on several...

https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/d/anaheim-1970-dodge-dart/7801087845.html

That Uncle Bud with a load of bud.

That looks very close

If can find some Formula V traction treatment it works well

Those are state regs...don't think the feds can touch them. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Question for transman. All of the seals listed in post 11 have a 2.254 od with dust boot. Do you have a part number for that od seal without dust boot? They may exist but have never seen one.

Just so you know; a 4.10/33 combo maths to 65=2715 rpm . a 3.55/28 combo maths to 65= 2770 a 3.23/25.5 combo maths to 65=2770 The point is that your 4.10s, by themselves, do NOT point to performance gears. you can solve all your problems with Torque Multiplication, starting with a stout...

You did a great job

Thanks not for me it would b $10 and a cal

I don't think the tire manufactures would approve what is done to those tires.