Search results for query: drivers side manifold

Check the hose and the fitting for leaks on the manifold directly above the timing cover.

This is for a custom installation and is not a factory restoration A body part.I show the cast #.$90.Keene NH.US Postal money order only.

did you get the two straps for the drivers side from the manifold to the bellhousing?

Yes...pass side port will be ported vacuum...none at idle. If you're setting your timing with the vac hose connected to the manifold vacuum port, you're getting vacuum advance at idle, which is messing up your readings.

Yeah, finally some progress and the end is almost in sight! And yes, I will sell that manifold... I painted and installed it and THEN I realized that it was already cracked and poorly repaired. Luckily I found another one soon after. I don't know how many times I had to mess with that...

@WV64Signet The metal manifold gasket with the heat shields you have is correct for the driver's side. Below is the DS exhaust manifold you need:

So they hit on the left with 66 manifold’s. I ground a bit off the head corner and bought a header flange to space it out 3/8”. Toth heads and ‘73 manifolds same story but Bruce knew where the water jackets were in his heads and I was able to take enough off the head to install the ‘73 OEM...

did you get the two steel tubes that run from the manifold to the bellhousing on the drivers side?

I slightly ported the exhaust manifolds on the top and sides for the larger ports. I ran J heads that had the larger exhaust ports. The later 360 heads had smaller ports, but had a longer "face" for the EGR port. That face can hit the drivers side exhaust manifold and crack it, so check it...

Ok, so I’ve pulled the valve cover and rocker shaft. No sign of broken spring, valve seems to move fine when using pry bar to lever it down. Obvious marks on piston from valve contact. I don’t get it. Stuck lifter maybe? I assume I’m going to have to pull the head to inspect the valve for...

Welcome from Georgia! Nice Duster. I built a 318 for my brother's '66 Barracuda a long time ago when we were in our 20's. His 318 could ALMOST run with my 340! I don't think you will end up with 500 HP unless you have deep pockets. However, that motor is very peppy with the right stuff in...

I'll edit my post. It has been 15 years since I had those off.

They are 5/16 and for those reading this and are installing HP manifolds. There is a clearance issue, at least with "O" heads on drivers side, that does not allow manifold to sit flush with head so be careful. Had to make repairs to both center mounting tabs. Grind just forward of rear corner...

And 72 manifolds aren't even the good ones.

I used to own a 74 Duster with a stock 318 that I put el cheapo headers on. I eventually destroyed the headers on a road trip and had to saw them off with a hacksaw. I replaced them with a set of 340 A body manifolds from a 72 Duster 340 and noticed absolutely ZERO difference in performance...

Casting # is in pictures.273/318.$30.Keene NH.US Postal money order only.

<rolls eyes> https://parts.chryslerjeepdodgecityofmckinney.com/p/Heat-Shield--Exhaust-Manifold--Drivers-Side--340/59775113/P2946105.html

I do believe that a C body pass side can work with minor modifications. As for the drivers side I think NOT. Because there is so little room for anything only the factory manifold will work and it's not the best.

Been looking ... definitely Felpro. Have to figure out the drivers side manifold gasket. Gasket list is now Heads Manifold Valve covers Oil pan Water pump

Yep! Just had this. It made me want to used O rings that fit was just so nice. Added gaskets and like you…. Grrrrrrr, off to the machine shop….. When I spoke to the machinist and asked that he take of this gasket thickness, (gasket in hand by the way, just to be sure) He said no problem...

I doubt there much worse than 318 manifolds, probably 5 hp less at worse, I wouldn't over worry about on a mild early A car. There's another shootout that I can't find anymore that included magnum manifold to and was basically same as the 340. The best was one 340 and one magnum I forget which...

From what I recall a C Body drivers side will cost you at least 5-7 HP. An original A body BB Drivers side will cost you about 12HP. There was an aftermarket drivers manifold that looked like an original A body without the restriction. Made by Accurate.

I have one, but not both.

I have had a few 4.7's. They have all been good engines. The only one I ever had to work on was one we had in a Chrysler Aspen. It broke the manifold bolts(very common) on the drivers side but, other than that all 5 that I have owned were pretty good. I did have to put a crankshaft position...

Can you make the 92 Dakota 5.2 magnum exhaust manifolds work?

Monicotti Chrysler show them on their website. I just looked this morning. $171.70 PN: 2946105. It does not show out of stock, so it's worth a try! I am lucky to have an NOS one in the factory box. Good luck. I hope you find one. Vinny

Yep it’s a project! I new a lot needed to be done when I got it. I’m just starting out. That’s why I posted was to get some pointers where to start. Thanks for those things you mentioned. So question about the vacuum advance line. I haven’t touched it since I got it but I was doing some research...

Not sure if it has been mentioned, but like the head hitting the stock alternator, the stock drivers side 68 340 exhaust manifold can hit the head on the eddy heads. Where it goes back towards the head between the steering shaft and head. Years ago I had the issue. Had to run a header flange to...

Okay if I can get ahold of the exhaust manifold heat shields I’ll get them on. Now, does anyone know of where I can get drivers side for sure and hopefully passenger side to. 65 273v8 I’ve looked at the usual places, Layson’s, classic industries, Summit Racing Equipment, eBay,,,,nothing Help...