Exhaust system for a 1965 Dodge Dart GT

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zookgumby

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Hi all,
This is my first post on this forum...so I hope I'm in the right spot!
I have '65 Dodge Dart GT I'm rebuilding (almost done) with a '68 built 318 driving the stock automatic tranny. Currently it has the Y pipe which then splits into a dual exhaust (pretty mickey-mouse). I'd like to put in a header back dual exhaust system, but can't find a complete system for sale anywhere. I did buy a NOS Y pipe I could use to split into two for welding onto the rest of the system if I have to, but I'd really like a full system - the engine is strong enough (10:1, comp cam, etc) but the current exhaust is not helping IMO. Does anyone know of a full dual system that can be ordered for the '65, or at least a setup I could use to weld up to a split in two stock Y pipe?
Thanks for any help...
Tom
 
I guess I'm not quite getting what you're after- you asked about a header-back system, and then start talking about splitting a stock Y-pipe (which uses stock manifolds).
Do you have headers or manifolds? If headers, what brand? If manifolds, TTi offers head pipes that fit the stock manifolds. Exhaust_Parts
You do realize that whichever way you go, you need to notch the transmission crossmember in order for duals to fit. TTi can help there, too: https://www.ttiexhaust.com/Sheets/Crossmember_sheet506.pdf
 
I don't know if the HP 273 exhaust would work with the 318 manifolds. THe drivers side manifolds are different.
 
Is it TTI that has duals for Early A's with your choice of head pipes by manifold number?

Also, you will have to modify the transmission crossmember to accept the passenger side pipe if you go with a dual system.
 
Is it TTI that has duals for Early A's with your choice of head pipes by manifold number?

Also, you will have to modify the transmission crossmember to accept the passenger side pipe if you go with a dual system.

I don't know if the HP 273 exhaust would work with the 318 manifolds. THe drivers side manifolds are different.
 
In '67 I bought an S model barracuda with the single exhaust. I had CHP's pulling me over constantly for sound violations. The resonator was a straight through affair so I ended up drilling holes in the pipe just ahead of it so I could run a length of safety wire that would hold a gob of steel wool just long enough to pass the sound inspection sign-off. Nowadays nobody seems to care about loud pipes...but back then it was a big deal. Even using a brand new unit didn't do any good, LOL.
 
In '67 I bought an S model barracuda with the single exhaust. I had CHP's pulling me over constantly for sound violations. The resonator was a straight through affair so I ended up drilling holes in the pipe just ahead of it so I could run a length of safety wire that would hold a gob of steel wool just long enough to pass the sound inspection sign-off. Nowadays nobody seems to care about loud pipes...but back then it was a big deal. Even using a brand new unit didn't do any good, LOL.
The barracuda was a '65
 
Hi all,
This is my first post on this forum...so I hope I'm in the right spot!
I have '65 Dodge Dart GT I'm rebuilding (almost done) with a '68 built 318 driving the stock automatic tranny. Currently it has the Y pipe which then splits into a dual exhaust (pretty mickey-mouse). I'd like to put in a header back dual exhaust system, but can't find a complete system for sale anywhere. I did buy a NOS Y pipe I could use to split into two for welding onto the rest of the system if I have to, but I'd really like a full system - the engine is strong enough (10:1, comp cam, etc) but the current exhaust is not helping IMO. Does anyone know of a full dual system that can be ordered for the '65, or at least a setup I could use to weld up to a split in two stock Y pipe?
Thanks for any help...
Tom
The standard Y pipe for an early A body is around 1 7/8”. what I did is transitition off the end of the Y Pipe into 2 1/4” pipe to a Magnaflow muffler then continue 2 1/4” to the stock resonator. You can get a muffler shop to fab a Y pipe to 2” but probably no worth the expense given what results in performance.
 
The standard Y pipe for an early A body is around 1 7/8”. what I did is transitition off the end of the Y Pipe into 2 1/4” pipe to a Magnaflow muffler then continue 2 1/4” to the stock resonator. You can get a muffler shop to fab a Y pipe to 2” but probably no worth the expense given what results in performance.

I just checked the TTI site. You can get head pipes with the flanges that will bolt to your manifolds. Only drawback would be the cost

https://www.ttiexhaust.com/Classics-Ex/MfdCastingNos-340.pdf
 
I decided to use the Commando/Charger 273 repro single exhaust system with the resonator in my 65 Dart wagon. I have read that the single makes more power than a dual exhaust in the eatly As
 
If you're running the stock 273 exhaust manifolds on the 318, just use the Commando/Charger 273 exhaust system. No mods needed, they fit easily, sound great, and can handle the 318 displacement just fine. The bottleneck is the manifolds, not the exhaust system. Oh, and I've seen many early A's with dual exhaust and without the transmission crossmember mod. They just dip down a bit to clear, and usually end up with a dent in the pipe right there. If you're going to go with headers, the old Spitfire, Doug's, and TTI make them to fit to one degree or another. My Spitfires fit nice with a 360, but, they aren't available anymore except under a different name. (Did Layson's buy them out?) With headers, yeah, mod the trans mount and go full duals with an X crossover if it's going to be driven on the street.
 
If I were to re-do my dual exhaust for my 65 Dart GT. I would get the single stock style with resonator. Either from accurate LTD or Waldrens. Dustin.
 
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Accurate has all the stock parts too.
Accurate are not "stock" parts. You can't use their parts to replace a stock Commando pipe between the Y pipe and muffler, but as a system it is very nice. Waldron's are "stock" parts that will interchange with factory parts. You can also get a replacement part if you want from them.
 
If you're running the stock 273 exhaust manifolds on the 318, just use the Commando/Charger 273 exhaust system. No mods needed, they fit easily, sound great, and can handle the 318 displacement just fine. The bottleneck is the manifolds, not the exhaust system. Oh, and I've seen many early A's with dual exhaust and without the transmission crossmember mod. They just dip down a bit to clear, and usually end up with a dent in the pipe right there. If you're going to go with headers, the old Spitfire, Doug's, and TTI make them to fit to one degree or another. My Spitfires fit nice with a 360, but, they aren't available anymore except under a different name. (Did Layson's buy them out?) With headers, yeah, mod the trans mount and go full duals with an X crossover if it's going to be driven on the street.
My 65 ran for years with 2.25 inch duals and an unmodified factory crossmember. Pipe on that side only hung slightly low. Have TTI's and 2.5 inch pipes now, and I did modify the crossmember so they would clear.

Old setup:
1692935798845.jpeg
 
I have complete TTI system in my 65 dart - headers and 2.5 dual exhaust with crossover and dynomax Super Turbo mufflers. Nice system, but not without issues. I think it is quite loud even at idle and cruising. Some people would probably like it, but it gives me a headache after a few minutes. I'm hoping to add resonators soon. I also have little to no clearance between the headers and the torsion bar on the passenger side. I actually get some noise, clanging and rubbing at idle in reverse. I have 0.83" torsion bars, so no room for larger diameter bars either.
 
I have complete TTI system in my 65 dart - headers and 2.5 dual exhaust with crossover and dynomax Super Turbo mufflers. Nice system, but not without issues. I think it is quite loud even at idle and cruising. Some people would probably like it, but it gives me a headache after a few minutes. I'm hoping to add resonators soon. I also have little to no clearance between the headers and the torsion bar on the passenger side. I actually get some noise, clanging and rubbing at idle in reverse. I have 0.83" torsion bars, so no room for larger diameter bars either.
Interesting. Passenger side no problem on my 65 Barracuda's TTI's, but I had near zero clearance between the torsion bar and the two tubes it ran between on the driver's side. Fixed that with a later A body motor mount biscuit on that side (keeping the original 273 bracket), which wasn't as tall as the original 273. Dropped the motor just enough to give me clearance, no rattles. I have .89 torsion bars.

On the passenger side, you may need to put a spacer under the biscuit to raise the motor up a bit. This assumes, of course, that you have a 273 biscuit in there now. If not, may need to switch to it.

To get back to the original OP, TTI headers will give you the best power, but they are a tight fit in that small engine compartment, and I could write a short story of all the things I had to move (brake and electrical lines mostly) to get everything to clear. I agree, though, with Cudamark that your bottleneck is the 273 manifolds, not the rest of the exhaust. There are options, including 340 manifolds (very expensive these days), Spitfire headers or OEM Magnum manifolds. All this has been discussed many times, so I won't try to go in depth here.

At this point, if you're keeping the 273 manifolds, I agree with those who say go with the factory 273 hi-po big single exhaust. For whatever my opinion is worth. :realcrazy:
 
I think the first question is what exhaust manifolds or headers. Do ‘68 manifolds fit on an early A? I doubt it but don’t know.
So it’s either ‘66 & earlier manifolds or headers.
So I think the first decision is what manifolds.
 
I think the first question is what exhaust manifolds or headers. Do ‘68 manifolds fit on an early A? I doubt it but don’t know.
So it’s either ‘66 & earlier manifolds or headers.
So I think the first decision is what manifolds.

68 340 manifolds can fit an early A; may have clearance issues with the steering joint. Different ways to solve this, but I switched to a power steering column (shorter shaft) attaching the shaft to the gearbox with a Firm Feel adapter. This moved the joint back out of the way. Passenger side, the later 340 manifold will clear more easily, but the 68-70 manifold did barely clear the inner fender protrusion around the upper A arm mount of my 65.

1693670908674.jpeg
 
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