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There's no shortage of 340 blocks out there. Granted, many of them are at least .030 over but you still see std bore ones for sale. Not to mention everyone that has horded them (myself included). At some point I will decide that I dont need to keep all these blocks. I remember the MP "resto"...

I bought some either on amazon or ebay. Non adhesive wrapping tape. It worked great and looks like the factory job.

Dont be scared of plastic in the joints either. Some of these plastics are harder than metal.

73 wheel is different. Should look like this one.... https://www.ebay.com/itm/295993068581?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&srsltid=AfmBOopKss7Ip7rCtCFp1qdSWjhNSrbZHFQAEBwbG6rCsMudMlWcHJOsMwE

The factory joints had metal bushings. Most all (even MOOG) new production joints now use plastic in them. Yes I believe that bushing moves around in there. It wont move much on a new joint but is noticeable on one with miles. If there is no slop in it, run it.

It looks like there is already a heli coil in the other hole. Someone probably used bolts that were too long and cracked it. A thread sert would be more than sufficient to repair that. Yeah, heli-coils are awesome but on something like that I would use a solid thread sert.

Do they repop these? They didnt when I needed them a few years ago. Yes, the originals are almost always cracked at the front edge. It took me forever to piece together a perfect set. I have some black ones but probably none that are perfect. OP needs to let us know what kind of car they are...

Swinger is longer than the duster and dart sport.

There is a local guy in the southern Maryland area I can get you in contact with. He does a ton of dana rears but im sure he can do 8 3/4 as well.

I think they dropped the flower in 75.

You can try one of these bootleg ones. Made in CHYNAH https://www.amazon.com/Exhaust-Manifold-Chrysler-Plymouth-Pickup/dp/B01K2KEQ4I/?tag=fabo03-20

Disconnect wire at the sending unit and see if the gauge still reads full. If it does your sending unit wire is shorted to ground somewhere. Not a common problem but its possible. My guess would be an issue with the sending unit. The new sending units are garbage. I gave up and just keep track...

I dont think anyone has messed with the stamping. That stamp looks 100% correct font. Post a better pic of the casting number. The 340 used 360 heads the last couple years so that is normal. Did it have a windage tray in it? In a pinch you can use telescoping gauge and calipers to measure the...

I like the taylor wires a lot for budget builds. For my more expensive builds I run the low resistance MSD wires that you cut to fit. I like the fact that I can make them fit perfectly. They come with a cheap crimper but I have the nice msd crimper that produces factory quality crimps. Back in...

Looks safe to me. Good for 5 HP or 5 MPH, whichever you hit first.

Sealed Power PN E-318K Std 4.342" Box a little ragged but rings are in perfect condition. Lists for $113. $55 shipped 50 states, USPS money order only. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-e-318k#overview

That is up for debate but in my opinion the ribs on the side of the block are a good thing.

No ribs on side of block so I think its pre 69.

I have broken at least two harbor freight pitman arm pullers. It all depends on how tight yours is. Sometimes they can be a nightmare to get off. Getting the pitman off is the hard part, the rest is a 5 minute job.

The main thing that holds back the later 340's is the compression. Bumping up the compression will yield the best results. Second would be good exhaust.

Warped head or deck, cracked head. Gonna have to pull it down.

No need to buy a new board for that. Anyone that can solder a little bit can fix that in a couple minutes.

I believe they are 5/16-18. The end studs are 5/16-18 head side and 5/16-24 manifold side.

A regular grade 8 bolt will work fine.

I will see what I can find.

What is the carb number for a 71? I have piles of thermoquad cores here.

I dont loan anything out. It disturbs me when you loan something out then its your responsibility to make them bring it back.

If this was my post it would read "look what I just bought". I would want to look inside the cylinders before buying. Seems to be a lot of engines around now that have water damaged cylinders and that can be costly if a couple sleeves are required.

If its a very small gap it can be bridged with just solder. You can also use a small piece of wire to bridge it. Another alternative is copper pcb trace repair tape. I have done this type of repair hundreds of times. Most often on much smaller traces, some needing magnification to see.

Oldman, its his clutch pedal hitting. I dont think there is a problem with the brake pedal.