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Do you have a link? Love to pick one up. I’m wanting to get a different hood for mine eventually and put on the ‘72 scoop

needs to be 4" hole to hold the seals nice and tight

Mancini has some that look like the OE units. I've seen the goo come out of an ECU but not a VR

I've used a split die with great results. The last one was my steering shaft for the steering wheel nut. The split die goes around the good threads, it's locked together in the handle then you just spin it off across the bad area. Worked great! I didnt know they made the reverse for a...

Nice! Now you just need the right foams for the covers you plan to install!

I wouldn't get them if the springs are molded in. I just reupholstered some 72 buckets. The springs are molded into the foam (this started in 72) I would have stayed away from them but the foam was in good shape. No one offers the 72 style foams.

As long as the seat frame has the springs on it and they aren't molded into the foam, you should be able to put A-body foam on the frame and change the seat tracks to a-body. Do you have a photo of the seat without the seat back plastic on there?

What is the benefit of something like this? I am about to begin re-assembly on my mild-build 318. So, if something like this is recommended, now would be the time to pick one up and install it.

^this. I used to work for a fuel/brake line manufacturer for several OEMs. We had hourly QA checks where we had to lay the lines in the gages to check the thread-in and bend angles. They had to thread in easily by hand. If not, we had to make an adjustment to the tube benders. The bend on...

I've noticed I can make it last a little longer if I thoroughly clean and degrease what ever I'm soaking. As it evaporates, you can add water to it to bring the volume of fluid back up too but I've had good luck using it in sealed containers or tins pans covered with foil, etc..

I had bought nice, new pre-bent lines but then realized after the frame ties were welded in and the bottom was undercoated that I’d have to re-route them. I ended up using the lines I bought but had to unbend some of the “factory bends” and run the lines along the frame ties.

If this is what you are looking for, Mancini has them

Nice! Make sure you plan for fuel line, e e-brake cable and brake cable tensioner rod attachment points before you weld them in. If I could do it over, I’d do some notching

My Indiana title says "odometer - exceeds mechanical limits" It was titled back in '96

Do you have one available?

I might be able to measure from torque shaft to steering column next time I'm at the car. May be next weekend

Looking for a piece of the shift linkage for a 74 Dart. Small block with 904, column shifted. I have the rod that attaches the transmission lever to the torque shaft. I need the rod that attaches from the torque shaft to the steering column.

I'm not arguing your points at all. I hadn't even considered a load needed on the engine to seat the rings. So thank you for mentioning it. It's something else I need to make sure I take into account. Some googling on the topic and I have read you can use a run stand to break in a flat tappet...

Also, I have brand new polished headers from TTI. you are not supposed to have them on for a cam or engine break-in . Something about turning them brown if they aren't properly heat cycled first. This is something else I want to avoid. I don't want to put the engine in the car with my exhaust...

looks nice!

Yours looks really nice! Wish you were closer! To be clear, I don't want to buy or build one. I don't plan on ever doing this again. So, it would be a waste to build/buy one for just one project. Really hoping I can find someone who has one. I would pay a fee of course for the time and trouble.

Long shot but asking anyway. Does anyone in northern IN, NW OH or southern MI have or know of a run stand that might be able to break in my engine? Or know of a shop with an engine dyno? I really want to break-in my engine and new cam before I put it back in the car. I have tried finding...

seat belt and key buzzers

did 70-71 Duster not have the deluxe trim option?

It was around $800 Canadian. Expensive but to me worth it. It is an original radio in appearance and all the modern features.

you can use speed nuts for a 1/8" post or get some push on retainers like these (Amazon)

I already had scoops on my hood when I bought the car but it didnt have the fresh air holes drilled. I just used the photos I found here for reference and drilled near the hood supports. I used a 4-1/8" hole saw for mine but it was a bit too big. The seal is in place and stays in but there is a...

70's Plymouth Scamps had side pin stripes as an option but I don't know if Dart of the same years ever had one had any. Dart had the stick on trim that looks similar to the 68 above but it was a rubber-like piece

My 72 had plastic but I bought metal ones from AMD and used them instead.

Yes!! Sending you a PM!