OzyDuster74 full rebuild and hemi conversion!!
- Thread starter Ozyduster
- Start date
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+2 inches
So finally got my chassis connectors, these are for a Australian A body so should be the same except hand brake hole on other side. I am waiting on the torque boxes from USA as shipping wasn't too bad.
Questions
How do people set up the hand brake assembly? as the right side chassis connector blocks where the tensioner rod would normally hook to on original chassis.
Did you fit the torque boxes first or the connectors
What did you do with brake and fuel lines any changes required
Questions
How do people set up the hand brake assembly? as the right side chassis connector blocks where the tensioner rod would normally hook to on original chassis.
Did you fit the torque boxes first or the connectors
What did you do with brake and fuel lines any changes required
Last edited:
mygasser
Well-Known Member
if you mean where the cable goes through the torsion bar crossmember, i redrilled the crossmember so the cable runs 'inside' (nearer the tunnel) where the frame connectors mount. if that's not what you meant ignore me. lol.
neil.
neil.
Yep but your cable also has a metal rod that hooks onto the crossmember on right side. Its used to tension the cable. Where did you remount this rod?
mygasser
Well-Known Member
from memory i bent a dog leg in it to shorten it. either that or i shortened it and re bent a hook on the end. it's been a while and i've been asleep since then, lol.
neil.
neil.
So had a big win in terms of my conversion!!!! Found the rare as hens teeth Holley conversion headers on ebay. Had to read the add three times to make sure it was them as they no longer made by Holley and no one has any in stock!!!
Just need to buy the engine and sump now haha. Been quiet with the build as my company is crazy busy at the moment. But we will weld the sub frame gear in soon then strip the front suspension out. Sad thing is i have all the parts just not the time. As i am trying to finish the renovation on my home, have a 2.5 and 5.5 year old and run my own company haha so lifes very busy. I dont want to just pay someone else to do all the work
Just need to buy the engine and sump now haha. Been quiet with the build as my company is crazy busy at the moment. But we will weld the sub frame gear in soon then strip the front suspension out. Sad thing is i have all the parts just not the time. As i am trying to finish the renovation on my home, have a 2.5 and 5.5 year old and run my own company haha so lifes very busy. I dont want to just pay someone else to do all the work
Thats good work on the door gap , will have to look closer at my own project
Yes apparently really common on old coupes with no B pillar. Makes sense as the door lines up very odly and no adjustment on the hinge would have had it correct
So i am in NJ and other parts of USA and Canada for a month so have been stocking up on parts to send home. Got a lot of small stuff coming (all the clips and screws etc) however found a set of black heart hemi swap headers on ebay and a genuine twin scoop. Currently still installing the chassis stiffeners as my company has been crazy busy. Hopefully when back home can get stuck into it again.
You dont want to know how much the postage was for this from NJ to Australia but love the Ebody centre console. I will do a drop down box with a ratchet shifter fitted in a leather boot etc with a 2step button etc.
Also got a heap of little parts that i brought back in my bag with me. As lot of the small parts the postage is more than the parts. I pretty much have all the items needed now to complete the build to a high quality. I want the interior and driveline to be like brand new etc.
I have boxes full of reproduction parts filling a whole two door robe haha has taken a few years to get all the parts due to shipping being such a killer
Also got a heap of little parts that i brought back in my bag with me. As lot of the small parts the postage is more than the parts. I pretty much have all the items needed now to complete the build to a high quality. I want the interior and driveline to be like brand new etc.
I have boxes full of reproduction parts filling a whole two door robe haha has taken a few years to get all the parts due to shipping being such a killer
Glad i got an original scoop as literally just fits onto hood with zero effort..... unlike many fiberglass recreations.
Does anyone know why the bottom part of the twin scoop can screw off?
What holes are usually cut, i dont want to cut the reo as this will cause engineering issues. I was thinking two hundred mm holes left and right of each other.
Tried on the front runners as well, should make the steering nice and light. Still working on the chassis connectors to fit. I want the underside all painted by Christmas and the diff etc in
Does anyone know why the bottom part of the twin scoop can screw off?
What holes are usually cut, i dont want to cut the reo as this will cause engineering issues. I was thinking two hundred mm holes left and right of each other.
Tried on the front runners as well, should make the steering nice and light. Still working on the chassis connectors to fit. I want the underside all painted by Christmas and the diff etc in
There are some threads here on locating the holes for cutting. I think there are also templates you can buy.
For the dual snorkel scoop, there are two holes near the rear of the hood.
For my dual scoops, the hole size called for 4-1/8" hole but that was a touch too big.The seals still fit and don't fall out but there is play in them. I would use a little smaller saw next time. I'd measure whatever gaskets you have and size accordingly. DMT sells gaskets
For the dual snorkel scoop, there are two holes near the rear of the hood.
For my dual scoops, the hole size called for 4-1/8" hole but that was a touch too big.The seals still fit and don't fall out but there is play in them. I would use a little smaller saw next time. I'd measure whatever gaskets you have and size accordingly. DMT sells gaskets
I think someone posted the other day the holes should be 4'' for the seals to fit correctly. @Oldmanmopar
to keep any water from the hood surface from being pushed back by the wind and into the holes into the engine bay
So finally fitted the chassis connectors ready to weld in. They took quite a bit of scribing to get them to fit really nice as they were for an auatralian A body and floor pan must be a little different.
Hopefully my fabricator can weld them in next week!
Then drop front suspension and get the underside painted
Hopefully my fabricator can weld them in next week!
Then drop front suspension and get the underside painted
Nice! Make sure you plan for fuel line, e e-brake cable and brake cable tensioner rod attachment points before you weld them in. If I could do it over, I’d do some notching
Yea ill put a slot in it for hand brake. Was thinking whats the best way to do the hook for other side of hand brake.
How did you do the fuel lines?
I had bought nice, new pre-bent lines but then realized after the frame ties were welded in and the bottom was undercoated that I’d have to re-route them. I ended up using the lines I bought but had to unbend some of the “factory bends” and run the lines along the frame ties.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
i redrilled the torsion bar crossmember closer to the centre so the park brake cable would be 'inside' the frame connector when i got round to fitting them. no need to notch the connector that way.
neil.
neil.
Yep i will probably go new lines as running a 6.4 hemi. Also if i notch them in be near impossible to ever remove etc
Now that makes sense!!!! Good idea ill have a look tonight. Its no show car but i want it neat, gone this far so figure dont get lazy now. Just keen to get the underside painted so i can start bolting in the new diff, kaltracs, monoleafs and all the fun stuff to give me some motivation again
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