Search results for query: timing chain

...I've took something like this and (while other work is being done..) pulled it apart and inspect everything.. New gaskets and seals, new timing chain, pull the heads apart and drop them off to be tanked and milled a bit... lap the valves and put new seals in.... ***If the budget can...

...what the actual mileage was. For me, it really wasn't worth my time to do all of that cleaning and to renew the gaskets and seals, and not just overhaul it. I could afford it. You should probably replace your timing chain while your at it,and take a good look at your camshaft. Good luck sir!

This ^^^^^. That way, you do not need to run a short timing chain.

It DOES NOT MATTER here where the drive gear is. When you reinstall the distributor, you will have to retime the distributor and the wires and then you are right back where you started, having solved nothing. You could have solved the proble much easier by just rotating the the distributor to...

Work on the basics The compression numbers are fine for that elevation. What was missed is a stretched timing chain which causes an engine to run "late" and contribute to the low power and probably the psi number. With the plugs out set the engine at tdc, distributor cap off, put a breaker...

I would have those 4 bolt main cap bolts go into a blind hole,as well as the timing chain cover bolts. Get rid of those sloppy rocker arms. The oil pump pick up tube would have a bigger inside diameter. Get rid of the freeze plugs that are on both sides of the camshaft. I would design the heads...

I got it running today. Here's how I checked the accuracy of the 4* advance: With it at TDC, I installed the chain in the 4* advanced position. and moved the crank (without moving the cam), until the gears and chain went on. I temp installed the timing cover and put the damper on far enough...

Post a photo showing the part number on the cover. Arn't there two different seals?

For new? Yes. That does seem alittle loose. That's typical of older setup. At least what I've seen. Not to say it's of every case.

When you measure for pushrods you need to set the adjuster at 9/32 inch or .281 thou. That is the Chrysler specified number and that’s where they should be. I don’t have the book at hand, but IIRC the spec is 9/32 out plus .010 minus .000 It’s critical the adjuster is at the right depth. I...

Somebody was smart lol, nice!

I have a stock 340 double roller timing in a 273 with 300,000 miles on it. Engine starts in a heartbeat and runs great. Mild performance, no serious valve spring pressures or crazy fast lobes.

I thought slantys did not have chains

I don’t disagree. The real issue is that the quality of most chains produced today is not great and they stretch, thus causing other issues like timing jumping around due to the “whip” of the chain. I went down this rabbit hole 2 years ago. We tried 5 different timing lights, 2 different...

I'll have to give that a look but if all checks out how would i go about doing a compression test

Here's what a 360 Magnum looks like dressed like a "day 2" 340. I used all LA front, including alternator, all brackets, power steering ,pulleys, valve covers etc. One ***** was to get the bypass hose to fit. Also getting a lower rad hose that worked properly. Let me know if I can help further.

...or broken timing cover, and are tired of searching junkyards and swap meets for a replacement? If so, these Mopar Performance aluminum timing chain covers should put a smile on your face. They are all-new castings that have precision-machined gasket and sealing surfaces for superior leak...

...it would have foamed the oil. A lot of owners/builders have opted for the tensioner found in later model mopar V6 engines. It will oil the timing chain and take up slack in it also. First example my quick search found... Chrysler V6 timing chain tensioner for 318 V8 - Bing video

No, this isn't a Pontiac, but it works exactly the same: conrods, crank, pistons, timing chain etc, etc. If you do the bolt up tight enough, the dampener won't move [ it is not a balancer, it is a harmonic dampener that has been balanced ]. There has never been any problems such as broken...

...the ID of the sprocket is "honed "out a little bit. The reason I like the cam bushing better. You need to remove the cam sprocket and timing chain to be able to remove the crank sprocket and change the keyway, then you need to use a puller/installer to R&R the crank sprocket. Why do the extra...

Did u use the rockers ?

It would take a lot off Lucas, or any other goo to quiet a timing chain. You'd literally have to fill the engine to the top of the cam sprocket. This would make it impossible for the pistons to move, immobilizing the crankshaft. An engine with no moving parts is going to be quiet.

well, when I was ready to button up the front of my slant, I did ask myself, where does the oil come from? It's like the chain functions on very little lubrication as it gets something from the crank, and cam bearings. That being said, it's existed for generations that way. I'm just doing cause...

Whats the best timing chain cover to use with the conversion? I only want to run alternator as running electric power steering pump etc With the lower hose when i run retrofit items sometimes you can get lucky with the hose shape required, i bend stiff wire to the shape i need then go to a

Always searching for new info, I'm wondering what symptoms of lack of lubrication to the timing set is showing. We've built the BBlks and Hemisback in the day, had a 340 Barracuda running 2/10s off the NHRA record. Lotsa really stout street engines with UBER valve springs. We also build, repair...

I think I would chamfer it just "a bit" more, but you certainly have the idea! You especially want to "open up" the chamfer to the oil groove in the bearing pretty good.

i don't see any replies here so thisd is my exp with him. i ordered his eq lev 1 mag heads STEEL ROLLERS head gaskets timing chain rocker studs guides . now what i got was alum rockers no name china and was told he doesn't know anyone that makes steel rollers for magnums. WELL we all know they...

...in the middle of the main oil passage plug? It's a little big, ain't it? That's cause it's a beeotch to drill a .040" hole without the bit breaking. So, my solution is to tap it to 1/4 x 32 UNF and screw a Holley .040" main jet into it. Problem solved and the timing chain now has pressurized...

Quick vid on teardown progress. Any suggestions on assessing the crank journals appreciated. I might just have to get it inspected by the machinist down the street. Definitely need all new bearings, rings, cylinder honing, oil pump and timing chain to get comfortable with the rebuild.

...chamfer? All you have to do is knock that 90 degree corner off the bearing from the outside to the oil groove, so it will squirt oil out along the chamfer and onto the timing chain. You do it to the upper bearing half that's in the engine, on the same side as the bearing lock tang. Nuthin to it.