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Haven’t tested the ballast resistors that we took off, not that it would mean much but the coil was replaced a few days ago. But could certainly be bad out of the box. My son just tested the voltage regulator and it’s showing that it’s putting out 15.5 volts on a fully charged battery. And there...

Okay, we swapped out the plugs. Fired right up. Running strong again, then shut down on its own. Would crank but not start up. Swapped out the ballast resistor that was already new just a few days before. Anyway after swapping it out, fired right up and runs strong. Set the initial timing on it...

Initially when we tried to start it, it had an ignition problem with it. That’s why we put in the new distributor and replaced the msd coil with an own one. I was thinking too it would have been a higher compression rate as well.

That’s very true. I’ll definitely check it out and let you know what I find.

Brand new points distributor complete out of the box. But I will definitely check gap and look down the runners to see if there’s any obstructions.

Points distributor I’ll swap them out and see what that shows.

I’ll pick up an infrared heat gun tomorrow and give that a try if you think it would work with stock style hp exhaust manifolds. I would think it would.

It’s the original 318 block bored .040 over. With the complete edelbrock upper end kit(aluminum heads, performer rpm air gap intake, came with the matched cam, lifters etc. stick hp exhaust manifolds with dual exhaust.

We did a complete compression test and all the cylinders tested within 11 pounds of each other with the lowest being 110 and the highest 121. Cylinder 5 is 111 cylinder 7 is 118 pounds. No noticeable coolant loose.

So we had got the new engine fired up, broke in and was running and idling good. Recently it’s started running rough and appears to be not running consistently on two of the cylinders. Cylinders 5 and 7. The plugs aren’t showing any burn on them. Has good compression, ample fuel, shows spark...

Well it was a bunch of little things all related to the coil, distributor and the ballast resistor. The ballast while new had a small crack, the new msd coil wasn’t putting out enough volts(put the old one on and put it up from 3.5 to 5 with key on) then even though the internals had all been...

FYI engine is in a 1971 valiant 318 aluminum heads, intake and avs 600 cfm carb, .40 over bore.

Finally got to the point where we are trying to start our new engine to break it in, it starts for a few seconds and then dies. Turns over strong, starts up again and dies. Everything is new, from carb to pan, timing appears to be dead on, no backfire or sputtering. Good spark, strong fuel flow...

That would be a really good thing, I wasn’t sure if they would possibly be the same as when six states built the driveline for us they asked if we were running a big pinion or small pinion so I just figured it would make a difference. I’ll take some measurements and let you know what it looks...

When we were building the drivetrain for the car the driveline was way off lengthwise as we went from a 904 transmission to a built 727 and the rearend was a 7.25 so when my son had the driveline made for the car he initially was going to use the big pinion 489 with the 3.23 sure grip. So he had...

Hopefully this is a quick question with an easy answer. I talked to a couple drivetrain shops including six states distributors and no one could give me a for sure answer. I have a 489 case center section with a 3.23 sure grip but want to change the gears to something a little steeper. So I also...

They gave me the same comment about the country, the housing development growing up around them. I think the big difference is that we part out a ton of a body cars and always pull the steering gearbox out and pile them up to sell. I think we just timed it right as they needed cores to rebuild...

Running manual brakes, so vacuum not a big issue there. We had the convertor for our 727 rebuilt by performance torque converter. They are fairly local to us, probably an hour away. He said he took it out as far as he could with the stall, which I think he said was around 2600 rpm, I'll have to...

Lol, definitely flying under the radar. Yeah I may have been optimistic on how quickly I can drive there. In good traffic the offpeak traffic it's a 45+ minute drive. I think the last time I made the drive there it took closer to an hour. The first time took a bit longer as their driveway is...

318 .40 over

Yeah, its definitely alot of cam, and I know that while they say it works on all the small block engines its really more geared for the 340+. So hoping with the 318 punched. 040 over that it plays well with everything. Running 3.55 gear ratio currently and may step it up into a little steeper...

It came with their 7177 cam. As well as the lifters, timing set, heads, intake, etc. Also the day my son ordered it they were offering your choice of carb between the 600cfm or 750cfm. He got the 750cfm as he had bought a 600cfm the month before having to rebuild the engine.

Definitely let me know, I am hoping to bring my big block duster along with the valiant. Might try to bring our 4 door 72 valiant as well, its a bone stock all original slant six car. But runs and drives good.

After months of research, machine shop work and parts coming in the 71 valiant is in the final stages of being put back together and running driving vehicle again. If you remember we had an issue of massive endplay from a wiped out thrust bearing. Had to do a full rebuild, put in a forged crank...

That would be fun time for sure. We're hoping to be ready to make a few passes at the mopar nationals at our local dragstrip this summer.

Perfect, thanks for the part numbers. Fingers crossed we can get the right parts for it. Got the built 727 mounted up, engine is fully rebuilt, putting in the new firm feel steering box in then fitting the engine back in. Finally getting it back on the road for summer.

I'll check out the moog numbers on rock auto. My son is working at oreillys right now as a parts delivery driver. He was checking out their website and noticed the ones that they have listed for the 70-72 disc brakes look like the 73 and up cars and the pic they have listed for the 73 and cars...