Search results for query: t slot

I always START with the secondaries adjusted all the way closed so they stick when closed and then adjust until they barely do not stick. I never expose the t-slot on the secondaries, no matter what the "experts" say. It's never worked "for me".

[1] Whistle at idle. Some carbs do it, nothing wrong or anything to worry about. [2] T slot close to square & mixture screws 2 turns out? Turning the screws in should stall the engine. If not, the engine is getting fuel from somewhere other than the idle port + a small amount from the t slot...

@CFD244, @RustyRatRod, @AJ/FormS OK guys, I hate to admit this, but T slot exposure is not a term I'm familiar with. And I've been working on cars for over 50 years.

So a jump/change of 2 in heat range? Transfer slots...I'm "pretty sure" :rolleyes: they're close to square. To be honest, I may pull carb to chk T-slots but that won't be for a week or so. Weak ignition is a good point. I was battling/exorcising electrical demons and there was a LOT of idle...

I think you’re over complicating things and you need to bump up that initial a good bit. Reading AJ’s tuning and T slot stuff can be confusing to new guys on tuning carbs. It’s something you’ll need to tinker with a bit.

Unless there's too much exposure, it's much ado about nothing. Other than that, you're good.

...the fuel to the idle port because it needs less fuel. That is what the idle mixture screws do, regulate the fuel+air for engine idle. There is always enough idle fuel provided the throttle blades are correctly positioned in the bore, ie about 0.020-0.040" of T slot showing below the blades at...

I once had a 292/292/108 in my 367. That I measured at 248/249@050 I ran it with every carb in my arsenal. No problems but, every one required a different amount of bypass air. All of them ran fine with as little as 5* Idle timing. Altho I ran in the 22>14 window, which provided enough T-slot...

T slot = Transfer slot. @Bewy Your in box is full. The best I guess is the dynamic ratio is another way to calculate what fuel will work best under running conditions. I don’t find any use in it. Over the years or fooling around with engines and various static compression ratios and cam sizes...

If you are not getting an off-idle tip in sag at 10/12 degrees, AND, the trans does not bang into gear, then the Idle-Timing and fueling, is darn close, if perhaps a tad rich. BTW, synchronizing the T-slot to the mixture screws, to the idle-timing was never My own idea, It's been around...

I think that his gauge is showing about 9 in of vacuum. The outside numbers are cm vacuum.

...showing above the blades. Veeeery easy to check: if the idle mixture screws have little or no control over idle quality/rpm, there is too much T slot exposed at idle. Now that I am aware of the cam in use, it will want a LOT more timing at idle for optimum idle quality & tip in response...

...I can run closer to 16˚ initial without pinging. I also played around with manifold vs ported VA and found that while manifold had slightly better idle quality, ported had vastly improved throttle response. I think this is because the T slot exposure was closer to ideal at idle with ported...

Just increase the initial timing and then idle it back down.

Has to be crank, 16* at the distributor would be a larger slot than the t-bar.

Agreed. The 318 is stock 235 HP (spec). Just wondering how to manipulate the other adjustments to, lets say, increase the idle timing without getting the idle RPM too high. Or, increasing T-slot exposure if I get a tip in sag without increasing idle RPM. The carb will eventually go on my 9.3...

3/8ths from pump to the sock in the tank. I ran mine inside the P-side framerail, into the area at the front perch of the rear spring. There I installed a life-time EFI fuel filter , then more hard line to the sender which I took apart and installed more 3/8ths hard line then a new 3/8ths sock...

You lost me at… transfer slot exposure underneath primary throttles…. What’s a T-Slot? Timing is 16 idle 36 all in, I pretty sure I run pretty lean, at least I did. I’ll play with it some. I need to change the oil in the car anyways.

Here is the T-Slot to manifold port relationship on a 1406 Eddie . Notice how it is below the T-Slot ?

...mixture screws being nearly 'all in' is usually an indication that the pri blades are open too far, & you are getting a lot of fuel from the T slot. When this happens [ blades open too far ], the mixture screws have little effect because the T slot is supplying the fuel for idling. You...

...that: It has too much emulsion. The idle feed restriction is up high when it should be down low. The main air bleed is too big. It needs T slot restricters. You’ll need a timing curve with 24 initial and a curve that is slow through peak torque. Vacuum advance would be a bonus. I see...

That was for a point of reference. Like I said, off fast idle it wanted to stall. I’m not using the fast idle cam for anything different than normal. Last night I pulled the carb again and yanked off the baseplate. I didn’t find any cracks or anomalies so I cleaned it and reinstalled it with a...

Let me know what you find out! I think your memory matches mine (holes in line with the t-slot)... I bought the carb with the holes from Brad Haak, who knows a thing or two about Holley setup ;)

Do you have square T-slot on both the pri & sec? If so, I would think the engine needed a lot of bypass air with that cam. If so, how is that supplied?

8" 27 deg 11-1200 rpm square t-slot 950 QF body, BLP baseplate, Holley HP metering blocks/bowls Also, ME Wagner tunable PCV valve which I have not readjusted.

...JETS WILL HAVE NO AFFECT IF THIS IS THE CASE, SO CHANGING THEM DOES NOTHING. And it needs more idle timing. Here is my last piece of help: T slot is checked from under the blades. Carb would normally have to be removed each time to check this. A pain in the a**. To check without removing...

Holley used a PV back there to help clean up the transition from the T slot to the main jets. With a PV back there you can get fuel quicker than you can with just the main jets. It makes the tune up much cleaner. Id think long and hard before I removed the secondary PV.

...one emulsion but that's with annular boosters. And not cheap ones either. You sound like you are right on the edge of transition from the T slots to the boosters. IMO you'll never get it cleaned up without T slot restrictors AND correcting the MAB. To that end, when you do get the MAB...

Now you got me thinking about PV timing and narrowing the gap between coming on the booster, and adding PV fuel. Never thought about that aspect of PV tuning before.

I’m on board with whatever is needed to help the situation. I’ve done tons of online deals when it comes to guitars and amps and mostly have had a good experience. There’s always shady characters out there though… What some people do that I’ve noticed.. say I’m selling some old slot mags on...