Search results for query: t slot

...but a LOT of important info missing. He 'thought' it had a purple cam....but purple cams do not make 18" at idle? No mention was made of T slot position, which is the foundation of tuning the idle cct. I do not believe the pri ABs need touching at all to dial in these carbs. What I believe...

Post #59? I don't even think I knew what I was taking a pic of! Lol #61, is the Secondary, with my finger poking the blades open to see the t-slot. Need a fresh pic, without the blades pushed open? The slot is hidden then

1)I didn't say to raise the fuel level! It may already be correct!, Only change it if it is not correct, 2) absolutely yes the transfer slot should be exposed to be looking about square under the blades. and adjusted like that, the mixture screws should be about 2.5 turns out. #) For highest...

Ansen and E-T both made uni-lug wheels that went down to 4" bolt pattern. I've had a set of each, and sold both to A-body guys years ago. The largest pattern they fit was 4.75". The only ones I've seen were the slot design, and they're apparently very rare. I've only seen a couple of others...

Thank you. Looks like I need to switch back to more street friendly parts.

I tried running both my booster and the PCV, Tee'd together, to the back port, and like I said, when I did that, the back cylinders idled lean. I supposed that was cuz on my standard 750DP without 4-corner idle, they were dry. I put the PCV back on the front, and that solved it. But, that cam...

I'm calling Summit today. Hoping for them to help with tech or just take this thing back. If I do send it back, I'll take a look down that tube. Those idle jets / bleeds came as a .043. The engine ran with the speed screw all the way in and mix screws all the way in. I changed them to .046...

...idle mixture screws adjust the idle. Screwing them IN should kill the engine. If not, the engine is getting extra fuel from somewhere, most likely from t/blades open too far exposing excessive T slot [ 0.040" or less of T slot should be showing at idle ]. You say 'mild' SBC. Cam? Cu in? Intake?

Sounds like it may have had a transfer slot issue and the plate masked the issue. The fuel in the T-slot is quicker at reacting to the initial movement of the throttle than the shooters and is constantly exposed to vacuum or should be when closed.

Leave it where it is?? Gee, why didn't I think of that :D AJ, thanks for your input. To get this cam to idle (using the old seat duration/overlap with the regrind, it's now 312/312/107 in at 105) it takes a lot of air since the stable rpm is, as I've said, at least 1100. It will idle slower...

It is not ign. If you can screw the idle mixture screw in until it seats & the engine does not stall or at least run very rough, then the engine is getting fuel at idle from somewhere else. Check the PCV valve; it should rattle when you shake it. If that checks out, remove the carb & see how...

Ok, Bewy is correct. You can get the boosters to drip fuel at a cruise IF the conditions are right. And that’s about where you are. A big(ger) hole in the secondaries and cruise vacuum at 14 inches or above can cause the secondary boosters to drip. Bewy was correct. I don’t think I’ve ever...

I finally pulled the distributor to use that FBO plate to recurve the mechanical advance. At first I noticed that pickup was not parallel to the reluctor. The reluctor was also a bit chewed up. Chances are the pickup wasn't parallel to the reluctor because the plate wasa bent. I have now put...

-I guess i could try plugging the PCV port on the carb. it is hooked up to an early valve cover with the ribs that doesn't have the modern PCV with the grommet. it has a bent tube of metal with a check ball inside. -Is there anything that can be done about the space around the throttle blades...

You have to correct the T slot exposure first. That means probably drilling some small holes in the primary butterflies so you can close the throttle. You’ll need to reduce the Idle Feed Restriction and maybe go bigger on the Idle Air Bleed. And you’ll need T slot restricters. Search this...

I get that. I guess what I’m asking is do the transfer slots get their fuel directly from the main well? And in my case whenever I’ve gone down in IFR, my transition has leaned out a bit also. Is that simply from there being less fuel in the idle circuit? Or is there a direct relationship...

So pull the carb, flip er over, check the #'s, and drill some?

Good information. I bought an Edelbrock 7176 heated intake just in case and made a last minute decision to go with it. I could have saved it for my 340. Street manners seem much improved. I did put the 750 Holley back on it though so I could still change to my 650 Holley later. Or it seems like...

I run 37/39 nozzles 50cc pumps, blue cams primary #2, secondary #1 hole on my stock stroke 340. This tune gives me the best 60' time with progressive linkage and .020 t-slot, 6 psi fuel pressure, 1/2 site glass up front, slightly above 1/2 secondary bowl. I also make it a habit of purging any...

...get your WOT tune up right or you screw up your cruise tune up. When all of that is done you can work on your transition circuit. Thats the T slots and T slot restricters. That includes getting your power valve opening time correct. An early opening PV will cause a rich condition in...

To clean up the cruise and off idle you need to get the idle circuit correct. IMO the IFRs are to big and you need to go down .001 at a time. If I were you I would use a .032 IFR in the bottom position and a .067 IAB as a starting point. Reset the idle mixture screws after motor is at operating...

...With the proper idle timing, the blades can be closed slightly. Once the idle timing is done as above, remove the carb & check how much T slot shows below the blades, at idle in gear. If more than 0.040" showing, more idle air is needed. Drill the sec blades, NOT the pri blades. Start with...

That’s why it’s good I have all the stuff to make it work better. Now at least I can drive the car to storage instead of renting flat bed which is great. This will also show me where I’m at better. I will report further.

I tried as big as .090" and also tested with .060". The only difference I see is amount of turns on the screws. I am guessing my IFR is too small? I will remove T-slot restrictors completely, this should show dramatic change if they are too small.

Thanks for the tips. I checked on the Demon manual and it says just a small square of the t slot showing is where to start. I pulled the carb and it appeared to be too much. I found that the screw for the electric choke was holding them open too far even when the idle screw was backed out fully...

As Bewy pointed out you are a range cold on plug. Are the numbers you are giving numbers YOU measured or are they from the web? You can NOT trust those numbers and no one can give you any advice without knowing exactly how the carb is tuned right now. Im assuming you have no brass in the...

If your cam was a little smaller, I could tell you exactly what to do for the low-speed circuit; but the biggest I have tuned is the 292/108 Mopar, that measures around 248/249 @050. On that cam, I ran it at 12/14* idle timing, which required the throttle to be opened too far up the transfers ...

yes, but I wouldn't be in big hurry to swap a known good-running carb for an unknown, onto an already detonation-prone engine with lo-stall TC, and 3.23s. Your 500 is good to well over 5000rpm on your combo; how often will you go there? Yes, I would set the T-slot and mixture screws AND...

...to do another TR without it going on the dyno. It’s so much quicker and easier to sort it out. The relationship between the booster, MAB, the T slot restricters and throttle opening and load is near impossible to control in the car. I know a dyno is out of the question (talking engine dyno)...

The Proform IAB .070, IFR .035, MAB .032 PMJ 79, SMJ 86. The Pro Systems IAB .070, IFR, .037, MAB .032, PMJ 78, SMJ 86.