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"sourced from a Dodge Lancer station wagon…the turquoise paint really dressed up the cast iron block" Fail! That's an aluminum block motor they took out of that '61 Lancer wagon. Not a word about that in the article, even though it would've required special parts (head gasket, rear main seal...

There is no need or good reason to obsess about zinc; read the first link in post #31.

Not quite a dealership, but look what's right up front here. Note the wording in the supermarket window; apparently the imaginary war on Christmas started decades earlier than is commonly claimed.

The '70-'71 Darts use a BA9s (SC mini bayonet) base bulbs, originally type 1895, for the side markers. The socket + wire pigtail are integral to the housing. The rear side markers have separable sockets, but not the fronts—this was done because the back of the front marker light is in a...

Glad to help out. Oh: That would have been an appropriate change interval for a preservation-minded driver using yesterday's sludgy oils and less-capable filters in an engine running on yesterday's dirty gasolines. Today, it's a needless waste of money and oil with no benefit to you, your car...

Yes. I'm old, so I can't read my phone with my glasses on, and I didn't take 'em off to write that last post.

Chrysler started using a shorter oil filter in '73 because some V8 installations didn't have room for the longer one. They decided to just use the shorter filter even in applications like the Slant-6 where the longer filter still fit fine. The NAPA catalogue just knows what's been programmed...

That oil's fine. I'd pick the 5W30 version, but this is fine. I'd also use the larger 1515 filter instead of the smaller 1068, but again, the 1068 is fine. There is nothing to worry about in what you're doing about oil and filter.

Nope, he's wrong about that. You'll see and hear all kinds of handwaving and spooky ghost stories about how y'just cain't get oil that'll protect an old engine at the parts store any more, so y'gotta-gotta-gotta buy this, that, or the other special boutique oil. Horseshіt! The worst oil...

No hostility here. You asked a question and I gave the correct answer. Then you said I'm wrong, and supported that with a bunch of marketing BS. I said I'm right, and supported that with valid science and fact. Now you're so wound up you couldn't even use this board's quote/reply button...

In Australia, the 1969 Valiant Pacer came with a 225 Slant-6 factory-rated at…175 hp! So now can we talk? Great, I'll start: Chrysler South Africa put out 225 Slant-6s factory-rated at 190 hp, too. And all these numbers are more or less bogus. Consider: The 225 1bbl engine's published rating was...

I really am not. The lens material is wayyyyyyy far down the list of what determines whether a headlamp is legit or not. There are excellent headlamps with polycarbonate (plastic) lenses, and terrible headlamps with glass ones. Okeh, and I know what I'm talking about because it's my job to...

There is no crystal present in these "headlamps". The "reflectors" are black plastic, and the lenses are poor-quality glass. That word "crystal" is used for marketing promotion, not to refer to anything real. Hit the brakes, dude. Throw it in reverse and nail the gas; you're on the wrong road...

Yup, and that looks like a factory floor-shift floor pan (not an aftermarket hack to convert from 3-on-the-tree) so this car looks to be a 225/4-speed. Worth grabbing just for the bellhousing, trans, factory Hurst shifter, and floor hump!

No. If it's not visible with the choke thermostat removed, it's not going to appear when the thermostat is installed. The missing mark is on part of the thermostat itself.

After sleeping on it a couple nights: maybe there is an index mark, but it is so far away from where it should be that it can't be seen through the window. If that can be checked without loosening the adjuster nut, great. If it can't, I would not loosen the adjuster nut until there is no other...

Link fixed up there in post #12; it now goes to here.

Ouf. I'm out of ideas!

That's the pinion housing for a '62-'69 starter. Originally it would have been mated to a motor housing stamped 2095150 or 2098500. The pinion housing and brush plate were redesigned for '70; depending on your car's build date you're looking for a pinion housing marked 2875553 or 3755259, and a...

Pay careful attention to how you have that fuel tank vent system configured and hooked up; see here for how to do it correctly. The stock Slant-6 pressure of 3 to 5 psi will be plenty. The 500cfm will be a good bit more than plenty, if your engine is more-or-less near stockish.

A-bodies have mostly disappeared. The newest one is one year shy of half a century old.

Oh, one other thing, FD: if your car has automatic transmission, and the linkage between the carburetor and the gearbox was adjusted with the too-thin carb base gasket, then when you raise the csrb with the thicker gasket the car will upshift early and downshift late. A new linkage adjustment...

Correct. Yes, plus the choke flap is offset-mounted on the shaft, so when the engine starts, airflow past the flap pushes on the long/downhill side of the flap more than on the short/uphill side, thus pushing the flap open. The choke thermostat must be adjusted correctly, and you need the...

Please lettuce know if it worked, so I know whether and how many eggs to throw at my face.

Go read this for the easy, low-dollar solution to this kind of no-fit starter problem.

Bending the rod is a bad idea, don't do that. It is the correct length and shape as it comes from the factory. There is an adjustment on the other side of the housing, and the correct adjustment is specified in the service manual. The choke thermostat only pushes the rod (to close the choke...

Oh nooooo! Leanna made powdercoat walk, talk, dance, and sing. Anyone know what happened?

Not even a little bit stock, no. Volvo took great pride in their orthopedically/ergonomically-correct seats at that time. They had big, thick, formed foam and were highly adjustable (though in some models it took a wrench).

I am pretty sure David Azzopardi makes the '65 Valiant wagon lenses in Australia, to his usual excellent standard of craftsmanship. They're the same as the round-lamp version of the AP6 Valiant wagon lenses used down there, except the American model uses a white central lens rather than the...