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Thanks everyone for their advice and guidance. I replaced the timing set to a double roller set, added a tensioner, new seal and new balancer. Also removed the oil pan to ensure the seal and balancer were centered as advised. Got everything put back together and drove it about 50 miles and no...

I didn't look last night (because I didn't know about it). I took a pic but cannot see if it does. I'm stuck at this place called work and will check it out tonight. From my pic there are only 3 bolts and the top left does not look like it does. I read that is a weep hole for oil, some have...

Thanks for the help everyone. I have everything disassembled and there was no slinger in there. I ordered one and will wait for it to arrive before I reassemble everything.

I decided to disassemble everything instead of just sleeving the balancer and hoping for the best. I got a new balancer, timing chain set, Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance Felpro gasket set, oil pan gasket set, Permatex Ultra Grey, Teflon thread sealant, and I plan on adding a chain...

You are correct. The pan will be very easy to remove and I will do that when I tear it apart.

Yeah there"s no way that is getting buffed out. I dealt with the same issues on my divorced transfer case and I wound up just replacing all the yokes and seals. The easy route would be the sleeve and just give that a shot, but like Cruze said. what else could be wrong??? I didn't pay a lot...

Forget it, I got it off. It has a nasty groove in it. I got the older style timing chain cover too.

Any tips on getting the balancer off? I have puller on and it not moving.

Thanks for the quick responses. I will just most likely just replace the balancer. Looking at rockauto and putting together a list of things to get. I think i need part number SKF 21944, it is listed as a "timing cover seal". I do not need the front crank seal correct? I know this is...

I have an oil leak in my LA318. It is coming from behind the harmonic balancer and I'm assuming its the seal behind it? It's making a mess and leaving a small puddle of oil every it sits after driving. I bought the engine from some dude on Craigslist and other than this leak the engine has...

Thank you everyone for your feedback. I'm pretty certain I found the problem. I've been sorta avoiding the removing of the release fork because I needed to do some sawsall surgery to remove useless OEM heat shield. When I assembled the truck and landed the cab on the frame, the fork was...

Thanks for the feedback like RustyRatRod said I think i have a hodgepodge of parts. The slave cylinder is for a 68 D-100 with a 318cid (bought from rockauto) and so is the TO bearing and sleeve are new and fit well. AJ you said this "outboard end of the fork up and down in the vertical plain"...

Yeah, I cannot understand why there is an angle. The slave is bolted directly to the bellhousing and I'm pretty sure that OEM style. I'm thinking that I have an incorrect fork or something. The system/mechanisms works, but it just seems sloppy and potentially unreliable. I was just hoping...

So the slave cylinder is for a 68 D-100 truck, and the bellhousing is off of the polyblock engine that I got with the truck. The bellhousing and tranny are definitely are 68 or older. I realize this probably the best forum for this, but like Dano said, I'm sure there are some very savvy people...

Hello, I am new to this forum and do not own an A-body but do own a Kaiser Jeep M715 with a 318 from an unknown year Dodge. Somewhere in its life the Straight 6 Tornado and Warner T-98 transmission was removed and replaced with a 318 polyblock and a Dodge NP435 transmission. I replaced that...

Thanks everyone. Very much appreciated!

Hello, new guy here. I bought a Kaiser Jeep M715 with a 318 poly block in it. I have since swapped out the poly for an LA318 from an unknown year. I have a couple questions that I'll locate the correct forum for, but just wanted to introduce myself first. Heres my before and still working on...