Clutch fork question

-
eightydeuce

eightydeuce

Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2021
Messages
17
Reaction score
28
Location
Massachusetts
Hello, I am new to this forum and do not own an A-body but do own a Kaiser Jeep M715 with a 318 from an unknown year Dodge. Somewhere in its life the Straight 6 Tornado and Warner T-98 transmission was removed and replaced with a 318 polyblock and a Dodge NP435 transmission. I replaced that with a LA318 and retained the poly bell housing with a hydraulic clutch on the passenger side. I'm having some release clutch fork issues and wondering if any one has any pictures of what the slave cylinder, adjustable push rod, and fork is supposed to look like. I have replaced almost everything on this truck that needed replacement and would love to know what the stock parts look like and where to get them. The current set-up I'm using does work, but just seems like it was Frankensteined in there. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
No A Bodies came from the factory with Hydraulic clutch actuation. But not all is lost, there are some savvy people here. Can you post some pictures of your clutch situation/set up?
 
Late 80’s Dodge D150 had a hydraulic clutch, had an external slave cylinder that moved the throw out bearing arm. I saw one in a pull a part. I believe it was a 1987 or 1988 model.
 
Without pictures and a description of "EXACTLY" what "issues" you are having, I'm afraid we're just as lost as you.
 
So the slave cylinder is for a 68 D-100 truck, and the bellhousing is off of the polyblock engine that I got with the truck. The bellhousing and tranny are definitely are 68 or older. I realize this probably the best forum for this, but like Dano said, I'm sure there are some very savvy people on here and hoping someone can help out. If not I understand. The fork did fall off it's pivot inside the bellhousing once. I had to use the field expedient method to fix it. Although my fix is pretty solid, I would like to fix it properly. I can open the inspection cover and take more pics if needed. Thanks

IMG_8134.jpg
IMG_8135.jpg
IMG_8138.jpg
 
The angle of the push rod isn't helping things, you have lost motion. I would try to get the slave cylinder in a straight of a line with the motion of the arm as I could like slot the mounting holes so it will rotate and possibly shim the rear to angle it inward if needed. Worst case build a bracket or get an aftermarket slave that will mount and align better.

So what is the issue? The fork wont release?
 
Yeah, I cannot understand why there is an angle. The slave is bolted directly to the bellhousing and I'm pretty sure that OEM style. I'm thinking that I have an incorrect fork or something. The system/mechanisms works, but it just seems sloppy and potentially unreliable. I was just hoping someone knew what the OEM parts looked like. As you can see I jerry rigged a return spring on there too. I cannot find what an OEM set-up would look like.
 
You need to get a casting number off that bellhousing to see what year it is. That way you can make sure your clutch fork matches. I think you have a hodge podge of parts there. The passenger's side hydraulic slave cylinder is way earlier than 68. Like about a decade.
 
My GUESS is that the wrong pivot bracket is in there, or the input retainer is broke, or the TO bearing is wrong or broke.
If you remove the pushrod, you can pull the fork out. But before you do;
>make sure the TO bearing is properly captured by the clips, on the fingers of the fork.
> and, using the fork,push the TO bearing against the clutch fingers, then move the outboard end of the fork up and down in the vertical plain. There should be very little motion on the outboard end, and as good as zero on the inboard end.
 
Thanks for the feedback like RustyRatRod said I think i have a hodgepodge of parts. The slave cylinder is for a 68 D-100 with a 318cid (bought from rockauto) and so is the TO bearing and sleeve are new and fit well. AJ you said this "outboard end of the fork up and down in the vertical plain". this is where something is wrong for sure. If you look at my pictures you see the push rod is at a downward angle. I can reach in there and fairly easily move the fork up and down. I'm starting to think that i do not have the correct fork. This is my bellhousing (well a picture of what i believe it is).
Capture.PNG
 
There ya go, you found the problem, shine a light in there now and see what's wrong.
It's beem 35years or more since I worked on those NP435s, so I might nor remember this exactly right, but here goes;
From what I remember that NP435 does NOT have a 1x23 input but rather something much bigger. And that will require a bigger, matching TO bearing, and a matching TO fork.
If you have a lot of vertical play on the outboard end, then;
if the fork pivot is a ball, that's NOT right.
But if the fork pivot is NOT ball, then some play, on the pivot bracket is normal. But when you push the TO bearing onto the clutch fingers, using the fork, the Fork will stop floating and drop into the pivot saddle, and at that time, if everything is matched, you should have little to no vertical play on the bracket and so, the same on the outboard end

I have never messed with a hydraulic clutch, so one thing that concerns me is this; how is the freeplay set and maintained, to keep the TO bearing OFF the fingers? Cuz if the TO bearing is full-time spinning, it will not last long. I have seen the nylon ball-spiders overheat and come apart.
 
Thank you everyone for your feedback. I'm pretty certain I found the problem. I've been sorta avoiding the removing of the release fork because I needed to do some sawsall surgery to remove useless OEM heat shield. When I assembled the truck and landed the cab on the frame, the fork was already in place and no real good way to remove it. I cut the shield out to gain clearance and removed the fork. The pivot ball was extremely loose and most likely the problem. I really appreciate everyone's help, feedback, and suggestions.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top