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Unbolt the master cylinder from the booster and shorten the master cylinder rod a little bit.

Sorry, NOT trying to be a dick here, but why the black paint on the lower firewall? That’s my favorite color. I had a ‘74-318 Duster with that paint. Black interior.

i wasn't referring to the Motown Missile

Looking at my car a little more I need a longer rocker section than that

Love that color!

If you’ve seen a Duster with no side marker lights, they were shaved off or covered when the car was restored/repainted over the years. No such thing as an original Duster with no marker lights.

Waiting patiently to get in car

question: does it have to fit the factory spring locations? because i have plenty that'll fit but... ya know...

Headliner going to be a pain putting in

Motown Missle isn't.

True. In 1968 the new requirement was for lights or reflectors, amber on the front, red on the rear. Chrysler probably realized they could save a few bucks in 1969. In 1970 I believe the many states required the using of turn signal lamps by vehicle owners, which probably necessitated them to be...

Doesn't look like it needs much help. Beautiful ride. What are you working on?

That's on the blade, not the arm. As far as I know, you could get anti-lift blades for any year.

Work of art.

Bring me an 8-3/4 for my d100.

OUTSTANDING! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Still have to put the interior back together

1976 duster / valiant owners manual. Cover is a little faded, but other than that it's in good shape. All pages present. $16 shipped from 40165 to the lower 48. Thanks

As I went thru this thread again lots of folks say there is better stuff out there but I owned a 68 F/S 4 speed car. All stock except the carb. and that son of a gun just would rpm all day long even in high gear. I've used this cam a lot thru the years and no one ever complained but I got a lot...

1969 had reflectors but in 1970 they had to go back to actual lights.

That’s the point lol

He means what he sold it for ...

67s have the anti lift wing on them. Alan

boo! i'll be down in your neck of the woods again soon too! (another TTI run...)

I am happy to take other recommends for a new converter. These guys are in Canada and have a good rep. That being said, that is expensive as you state....and so I am happily willing to let someone tell me about a good B&M or other brand that will do the trick as well for less $$

There is no valve. Airflow diverter. Air into car or air out. There is always water flowing through the heater core. Yes, sometimes people in warm climates remove them. It's just a small radiator. Wonder if their cars ever run warmer after doing that.

Ok I won’t tell you what I’m selling my M1 for. :rofl: :rofl:

I adjusted the push rod length very slightly and tested it without lockup. I'll drive it again for a longer distance to confirm. I've gotten great feedback and I really appreciate everyone's comments. Hopefully it's solved but I will report back if there are any issues. Thanks to all.

That’s what I was talking about. Diff Center sections from 1200-2000 depending. Yes tcs is good. $1600 good for a converter on a street driven cruiser? I don’t think I’d do that, but maybe that’s just me

Ah the good old days. When hairspray could double as super glue