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Hi Mick, so many of the aftermarket fans don't move enough air to do the job. Not only that, but the "shroud" they use impedes the airflow through the radiator while driving too. Hopefully the shroud mod will work for you. Be sure to get a good 7 blade fan too. I used a fan clutch on mine but...

Must be a heck of a tech inspection!!!

When I bought my Dana 60 from Strange, they said to use 85W-140 so I bought bottles of Castrol. My unit only takes 2 quarts while I believe the OE unit takes more. My rear unit came with a 4oz bottle of Motorcraft friction modifier. Some builders have had issues with synthetic oil in the rears...

I got the car like that so will try to modify how the drain hose is routed. Gotta love aftermarket stuff, huh?!

My drain tube actually touches one of the header tubes. When the engine is running, I will sometimes see a puff of smoke from that side of the engine when I have the hood open. When I went looking for the source I saw what was happening.

The Vintage Air system on my car seems to be working Ok, blowing 42 degrees at the middle vent when it is in the 80's outside. When running, the suction line going to the compressor is sweating and is really cold. Is that normal?

My wife bought the car from her mom which was a 69 Dodge Charger 318 automatic. The car was originally a Missouri rental car. It had a 7.25 rear end.

Sounds like the lyrics for a country song...

Power to weight ratio, baby!!!

Beautiful!!!

Call Ken at Oregon Cams and tell him exactly what you're looking for. He will steer you right.

My son has an 85 Dodge Truck with a 360 that came from the factory with a QJ. Think QJ's were cheap and Ma Mopar was savin' a few bucko's.

Yeah, but we don't need to do so through one job!

The unfortunate thing is this: you are probably funding their retirement nest egg

I watched your Youtube video on the install. Well done, and now you're famous!!

Post #119 asked about the troubleshooting results. I see you're running in several directions. You really need to focus on why the no-start. Does it have spark? Does it have fuel when you rock the throttle lever? After you fix the main issue you can start dinking around with other things.

Once the stamped pan has been distorted it is hard for them to reseal. You won't have any issues with the cast one you got.

The stock pans worked well until the flange got distorted by over tightening. I too went aftermarket for more fluid capacity, but the real fix was the reusable gasket. Sure is nice to have a drain plug too!!!

On the street, a vacuum advance is key to economy. Without it you're leaving a lot on the table. The vacuum canister on OE style distributors (like the MP one you have a picture of) can be adjusted. Others like the MSD are not adjustable at all.

It will be fine as long as you drive it long enough to thoroughly heat the engine & exhaust system. Fuel in the tank goes bad if not used a lot. Condensation builds up in the tank and drips into the fuel. Something to be mindful of.

Talk to Tony at CEAutoElectricSupply.com. That is what he does, and he is also a hotrod guy too! Great to work with! I installed his battery relocation kit and it was the best I've ever used. The cable is so much more flexible than welding cable or others I used in the past.

OK, thanks for the clarification. Onward!

Yes, the other valve cover has a breather cap.

Don't know how much, but it was draining out of the PCV area so not a little I would think. Never had an engine that did that, but never had valve covers like these either.

I see one with a filter/breather on top and one without. Since it has a breather, will air still be drawn in through the other valve cover that has a breather?

OK, Summit lists a ton of them. How about a hint without the need to spend a ton of money?

I understand that the PCV functions to evacuate crankcase gasses and to reduce crankcase pressure buildup. Am a bit unsure why oil would be present in that area of the carb when there are baffles in the valve covers... unless the oil is splashing around the baffles and getting picked up by the PCV.

I have a fresh 440 (about 750 miles on it) with Ansen cast valve covers & their PCV. The valve covers have baffles like the old Mickey Thompson ones did. Took my carb off and turned upside down to verify the transfer slot appearance. Found some oil around the PCV port and am wondering if this...

I believe RRR & Volaredon had their cylinder heads cut 0.100 to raise the comp ratio. RRR said his comp ratio is now over 10:1.

The second video was a good one for the OP to watch. From 70 to 132HP after a rebuild with good aftermarket parts was a nice improvement.