Search results for query: *

Hello all, Putting in the father's 727 tonight in his GTX and got to talking about 4 spds. Interest ensued, and the chrysler parts interchange book was introduced. The part # for 67' yr first 2 digits are 25, 68' = 28, 69' = 34. This is a raised ID pad 18 spline hemi 4spd. More than...

Yes, the heads i sold were 340 small block heads. Sioux Falls is about a 3 1/2 hour drive.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1970-Duster-440-Big-Block-Street-Strip-95-finished_W0QQitemZ220208265867QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item220208265867

Price now lowered to $7800. Emergency forces sale. Most of the interior has been redone. (in black)

heads are now gone....

50701 Zip Code Waterloo, Iowa

hey ya'll, i'm selling my "x" heads and 750dp in the parts for sale section as well. I'd like $300 for the heads which have no issues per the shop and $200 for the Holley.

ha ha, nice.:yawinkle: i'm sure somebody here would be interested in more pics if you get the time to take them.

wow! Love the Paint! Looks awesome from that angle! If that baby was rot free underneath, id sell my left nut for that car!

http://s218.photobucket.com/albums/cc55/finnman1/ Here's some kick-butt vids of her and my turbo dart. Drove it out of the garage today. Made me want to take a ride, but the snow prohibited that, haha, you should ride this baby to Work every day! Wow, the looks. ha ha NEW Dash Pad...

oops... tried to edit and get close up pic of left side. would only save as bitmap and forum wont allow large bitmaps... (hey adam) Notice i sanded off a ton of primer when buying to see what was under there. Thats factory brown high lead primer. $12,000 and cant go any lower. Fair price...

I love how you can see the paint underneath the undercoating on that frame rail pic! And, here are more.

Interior needs serious help! the dash pad is a complete catasthrophy. dash itself would be a fine "driver' but has been cut up by the 3rd owner.:angry8: i would finish professionally (new panel) or replace. 150 speedo, etc... BY the way, i do have a $250 gift certificate from Year One as she'll...

Here's some more pics. Rust free...

the 4spd pedal, z-bar, etc... is all still there. i have the headlight bezels that i took off, changing the headlights to 'non-30 year old light bulbs.' haha. let me know if you want any pics of any particulars, inside trunk inner quarter area. trunk lid-top bad water spot or whatever you call...

..

here are a few pics i found...

1970 Plymouth 440 Duster VS29HOB206117 67' Hi-Po 440 cu in "#'s" matching 915 closed chamber heads 10.5 to 1 Diamond pistons (runs on 91 octane) Cleaned, Honed, and Deburred LY rods Stock-stroke Steel crank Performer RPM Intake Holley 850 CFM Double Pumper .509 lift cam Mopar...

waterloo here too... what time is that get-together every 2nd wednesday? how many guys show up?

i figured as much; but then again, i wouldnt try with my luck w/ electrical equipment. :munky2::munky2::munky2:

after 4 more hours in the garage yesterday i finally got it fixed. i was simply sold the wrong alternator and i wrongly assumed i could make it work... i was sold a 1 prong alternator, but where the 2nd prong should have been, there was the terminal w/ a screw and everything, but no male spade...

okay, we'll do tonight... will post results on friday when i get back to the computer.. oh please god! :angel7:

sorry, didnt pop prior to alternator installation.....the black wire is actually a 'painless wiring' purple wire now, and it goes to the firewall block connector dealio. the connection is fine there... after that, i forgot... a little hung over... the dash lights work, the fuse is from the...

it wasn't touching...or so i think. yes, it is next to impossible to diagnose online. man i wish i had easier issues w/ my car, as most others on this site have simple fixes. it's just a little perplexing as the hot wire on the alternator goes into the starter relay dealio, then into the fuse...

buy buy buy! ive went through about 155 fuses and now i have to buy an ohm meter! :happy6::thefinge: i presume red wire to alternator hot, black to ground such as clean/non painted engine block. ive never ran one of those things. wonder what setting the dial should be on.

its the fuse running into my gauge panel. so, starter, fuel pump, line lock and VHT washer bottle are all hooked up. i've checked all the lines running from each. the starter line is going into the starter relay switch on the inner fender. and come to think of it, i know this would have helped...

disconnected the alternator hot wire... no go. disconnected the tach hot wire... still no go. :tongue8: i looked at about every hot wire running through the engine compartment/ firewall/ under the dash for a breach in the insulator causing a short and couldn't find any.

440 in a duster... mp elec ign w/ ballast resistor... reman alternator.

i'll try that... for the alternator... would you recommend disconnecting the hot wire only, or the whole thing. disconnecting the whole thing (all three wires) would cause it to not have a complete circut anymore correct? also, the tach would jump to about 2k before...

the tach's fine... i just installed a new alternator, but i triple checked the install.. could it be the voltage reg?