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Hook up your trailer, if not me, a FABO brother. I can’t go, my mom is close to the end.

I’m calling it a mopar, not an itchy pussy.

Oh how bad I want this, but how do I get it from NJ to Wisconsin?

Well truth be told, I prefer a thermoquad on any street engine and that would require notching clearance in a dual plane manifold or a spacer, but then your more than likely going to run into hood clearance problems.

Oh, and stock was a single plane manifold on the commando engine, right?

That looks like a real thin spot in the casting, bust a piece off and the measure it.

os?

Yes, vacuum secondary. Each cylinder is effectively only seeing 425 cfm with a dual plane manifold if the center divider is not cut down in the intake manifold.

I believe the original super shifter is the one without reverse lockout. To engage reverse, you had to push down on the handle. This did not meet NHRA rules for certain classes and Hurst made and sold a separate lockout for the shifter.

Your taking your life in your hands with stupid weak *** 9” drum spindles. I wouldn’t run them on a stock street car.

Listen to your preferred cam grinder. The only way to get the exact results you want is to test alot of grinds and dyno time. If you pick the right cam grinder, he will have that experience. I’ve heard alot of good things on here about Oregon cam grinders. Mike Jones has a good rep as well. With...

I’d give that a go on any engine, it can only improve cooling. Guessing that your going to have to give it a try to see if it does the job on your higher horsepower engine.

Yes thread formers rock, they are actually used in high production machining as they have 10 times the life of a cutting tap. I’m not sure they would work in cast iron though, steel and aluminum they are great. Works best with thread forming lube oil formulated for thread forming specifically.

You need to call other piston manufacturers and find the right pistons for your desired compression ratio, it may take custom pistons as these days there is not a big selection to chose from for these older engines anymore, most large selections are for newer engines like G3 hemi’s.

Yes, but I would go with a larger carburetor, 850 cfm at least.

With 4 head screws or studs per cylinder, I would remove a minimum from heads and/or block. Buy the correct pistons to get your desired compression ratio.

The notch is cut in to use a thermoquad carburetor. Any way what you are doing is changing it from a dual plane to a single plane, sort of. If your not using a thermoquad carburetor, I wouldn’t do it. I’d use a larger carburetor than an AVS with a dual plane as 4 cylinders only see 1/2 the cfm...

They are designed to piss you off (everyone actually).

Rick eherenburg on eBay, ricksmopars occasionally has water pumps that are supposed to be copies of the police car pumps made by the original manufacturer. Reasonably priced, not $250.00 you pay for the aftermarket pumps.

What year car 69 and earlier with cast iron pump is shorter than 70 and up aluminum pump, so all pulleys are different lengths.

Sand blasting/glass beading blah blah blah SUCKS. Spend all that time making a mess. Screw that, just drop it in a bucket of that stuff and forget about it till it’s done, rinse it off. Personally I prefer electrolysis.

What a mess of snakes, just bring back full fenderwell headers.

You should document the progress of your modification experience and post it here on FABO. Alot of TQ fans here.

Anyway, mind sharing the source of these TQ mods?

I’ll be dipped, going to have to look this up in machinery’s handbook. If you can even find a 1/4-32 tap,I imagine it won’t be cheap.

I’m not sure but 1/4-28 is a standard size. 1/4-32 is not as as far as I know. I’ve never seen or heard of a 1/4-32 tap. Take a piece of scrap steel, 1/4 inch thick will do and drill #3 hole and tap 1/4-28. See if the jet screws in.

That hardinge lathe is an excellent brand lathe, accurate and extremely rigid.

I could see where that one would be a necessity for newer cars as they are so low to the ground.

Your inbox is full, I have 2 in Milwaukee, Wisconsin.

Best if you don’t let it idle, as soon as you get oil pressure it’s best to keep it in the 2000 rpm range as that is where you get the best lubrication to your bearings. It’s also best to avoid short drives as you need to heat the oil to rid it of moisture and water. Moisture kills oil and...