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Man,,, It's been down since yesterday evening....

You beat me to it! I was going to suggest the very same thing... You're right,,,, bearings 101!:banghead:

1978... is it a lean burn setup? You can fill "Braze" the T slots on the outer 1/4th to reduce advance, then use a dremmel tool to evenly remove material from each side "slot" until you reach the 32 degrees mechanical advance your looking for.

Or maybe this person should have about 1,000 bucks worth of broken windows at 3am! maybe a few times of "justice" might persuad these dip ***** not to F with hard working people!

What lifter type do you have? If it's Hydraulic, there is no lash adjustment, and if it's a solid non-roller type, I think its .018" intake and .020" exh lash standard, but your camshaft manufacture should call out the specs. I'm not familiar with the lash settings on a roller type solid...

I found this the other day.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310384421833+&item=310384421833&lgeo=1&vectorid=229466

I would pass too.... The exh valves are smaller "unless someone had work done to them" as someone already mentioned. Additionaly, I would pass on just about ANY cast iron head if I were in the market to buy a set of heads! The price to re-valve, clean magnaflux, valve job itself, labor rates...

I got mine just when the "new" ones came out last summer. Oh and yes ProComps they are. I looked closely at them before using though..... I was surprised to find they are actually pretty damn tough! I had a valve strike when my camshaft failed "Used standard engine oil" and I bounced the...

Some photos along the way...:happy1:

Have you tried just slowly bring your engine up to the 6000 rpm? In other words, have you simulated the same rate of RPM increase as it would have been with the original gear set? I bet it's showing a lack of "something" in your setup because it can not keep up with the new rate of increase in...

WOW,,, That's a great deal!

I think I paid something like 400 plus tax to get my block cleaned, bored .030", cam bearings, and Brass plugs. Also had the rotating assy balanced.

Looks to me like they just hit the end of the casting of your guides with an end mill bit. Your intake guide was casted thin on the one side in this picture... appears to be left alone and as casted around the blend area from guide to runner area. I'm not sure there is anything wrong with...

I know your in a hurry and have limited funds, but do not put that together without the cyl's cleaned up with boring and hone job, or just honed if bores check out okay. If you dont have the financing to rebuild it the correct way, then dont tear it down as if you do have the money.... Tearing...

Depending on what they had done to the 360 heads in the article, I would say that's a good benchmark to go by. If they had limited work done, then I would say about 25-45hp more using the aluminum head with same work done. If you use them out of the box, your looking at something pretty close to...

Do you have a choke? Do you pump the gas two or three times before cranking? Did you ever verify ignition while cranking? Do you have enough advance dialed in for base timing? There are plenty of things to inspect to diagnose your troubles....

Stock block and heads from 78? I think you'll be lucky to run mid 14s! Low compression doesn't play well with big cams and single plane intakes.

Measuring the rod bolt stretch??? I have never heard of anyone doing this. In any of the data I have ever run across, you can "stretch" bolts when torqueing but never tightened a bolt based on measured bolt stretch. The standard application involving torque stretching required tightening of a...

One problem with the one by one method.... If you have the rod caps switched around,,, what rods are wrong as a combination??? In other words, if one is bad, then at least two are bad.... Make sence??? The only way to confirm your rods are assembled correctly would be to mic them when torgued...

Nice build! As you asked about carb size, I would say that if your driving on the street a lot, I would go with the 4150 Holley 1000cfm and 1" spacer. If it's limited street and plenty of strip, I would run the 4500 Holley 1050cfm with the adapter plate to 4150 intake. I'm not sure of your...

Ran when removed last summer. Had a 3 speed behind it.

"Reasonable offer or trade for 1000+ cfm Holley"

This is from my 67 Satty.... I built an RB for it, and planned on just keeping this around incase I wanted to go back to factory original. I'm now tired of it taking up space, so off it goes! Reasonable offers entertained and you provide shipping. I can load it with engine hoist for whoever...

I have a 1967 318la from my 1967 Satellite for sale. I would also trade it for a 1000+cfm Holley.

How about a 1967 318 from a 67 Satellite? I'm sure freight would be more than you would want to pay, but hey.... It's an offer! Lol.... BTW: I'm from over on the FBBO site...:coffee2: