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Heads are basically the number 1 component for NA hp especially streetable hp, look to the LS 5.3l same basic displacement, smaller bore not overly high stock cr. In dyno trim (headers, tune, no accessories) stock cam makes 350 hp and with a 218 @ fifty cam well into the 400 hp range and most...

You don't have to do everything at once, could just do 4bbl and headers and a good tune and go from there.

Not if you mill the 360 head.

MY cousin ran the stock two barrel over the eddy for his late model, one of the open wheel guy's said on the dyno the stock made more hp, enough to make up for the extra weight up high given faster lap times. Try both what ever gives better lap times go with that.

Don't forget about the doom and gloom from the CR and velocity police :)

If leaving the 302 heads stock, I wouldn't bother, time and money for no real gain. You a least want to gain head flow if doing a swap, A magnum head or milled 360 swap keep/gain cr while giving more flow, if willing do some porting can add 273/318 heads back in the mix but you can also port the...

Bet someone will tell ya, I'm pretty sure it's cheaper than a new roller. You still need push rods and springs but don't have to swap the front to LA style.

Still need to do what TT5.9mag said to do, cam kit doesn't come with those parts, plus if you get a kit with springs don't know if they fit magnum heads. Why not just get the magnum cam reground?

All he likes to do is troll, start 318 strawman arguments and if there's no active 318 thread he'll dig some up lol, then play victim when people argue back. As for being /6,273,318 forum, my guess 80-90% of A Bodies came with these engines.

Tolerances vary, plus Australia might had different specs only way to know for sure is measure, but it's probably more than stock spec if it says .056" probably more like .080"-.100" is what I've always heard.

318willrun's pretty much goes against everything he says and is a proven performer, And bet a good chunk of us has done similar with similar results, is it ideal to build a low cr engine no but it's what a good chunk of people have along with high gears and stock stalls again not ideal but a...

Was trying to be diplomatic :)

So your saying going from 116 to 112 V/P is gonna be so dramatic of a change that 3.91 & 3500 stall is a must it will a huge noticeable loss from stock if not ? Sorry I just don't buy it. You seem to be very fussy, uncompromising on how the power curve works with your car and gearing, which is...

Think that's a little excessive minimum recommendation for a 318 with a xe250h :)

A 4 cylinder based on half a big block would be interesting, don't know how/why it's a 318 replacement. Problem with 4/6 cylinders less intake/exhaust ports, less overall flow. But a TF/B1 headed 4 cylinder be kool :)

Why is it only got a 1000 rpm powerband ? Any time I've seen a mild cam swap over low performance stock cam the gains have basically been everywhere they measure 2000/3000 to 5000+ rpms, not just the top 1000 rpm. Why? Your saying a 48* vs 51* is gonna murder the bottom end ? What about if...

Instead of a 340 cam 64* how about something like a Comp xe250h it's got something like a 51* even better get a similar cam cut on a 107 lsa for a stock 48* ? But still be able to gain a good 30-50 hp over stock cam. Probably starting at least 2500 rpms and up.

Engine Master did a dyno on headers before and after beating on them pretending to make them fit and loss very little hp, by the end them beat them up pretty good.

People will go on endlessly over the cid and bore difference between a 318 and 340/360 but an extra 23-43 cid plus a 1/4" bore waste of time. Funny how no replacement for displacement/bore ends at 360/408. If you don't mind a square engine you could be running around with 496 instead of 408.

Lifter angle, instead of different bores for cid used 4.04" bore and used different cranks for cid change, a shorter deck along with stock deck blocks, a canted performance head option, same bellhousing on all, factory 400" engine, 4 bolt main.

I'd try what you got, why spend money, if not happy once setup right then think about possible swaps.

I have no immediate plans but at some point I’d like to see what I can get out of the magnum heads 1st and go from there, would like to pickup a roller 360 and zero deck with forged pistons. I want to keep the magnum short block stock, it barely has any miles on it.

I think I’d take a few steps before I jumped right into how much cr I could get away with. With my if I ever upgrade the short block on my 380hp 5.9l crate I wouldn’t shoot for the stars, I start with a cr that’s generally known to work for the combo, and still might shave off a few decimals...

I'd believe you'd be considered way above average, especially since you help the average guy on the regular here.

I think your over estimating what the average guy's abilities are.

So basically the average dude should restrain from adding too much CR.

For the AVERAGE guy you only can go by what people are averagely getting away with, in the 80s/90s it seemed like 9:1 was the safe bet on the street, but in the last couple of decades 10:1 is a pretty common occurrence on iron and 10.5:1 with aluminum and a decent cam. I see no evidence that...

I could see if you were searching for 5-20 more hp especially for a highly competitive race class that the result won't be good enough to go one way or another, but for a general build it will show what's possible with each and if there in the same ballpark which I doubt the cnc SM are but guess...