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Thanks everyone for the input. I bought a new stud to mount the cable to the carb and moved it to a lower hole on the arm. Dunno if I'm getting 100% open throttle but it's close enough for me!

I'll give that a try thank you !

When I do that it opens carb up

4 barrel

When I push the peddle to the floor the carb isn't fully opening. I have the stock cable and stock mounting bracket and a quickfuel carb. Is there any way to adjust the cable or is there a different way of mounting it to the carb itself?

If everybody at the car show complents you on how good your "nova" looks.

I been looking around the forum to try to get the answer But im not having any luck. I am planning on buying a aluminum radiator for my 75 duster with mildly built 340. I am also using a BeCool puller electric fan. Not that I'm trying to skimp on parts but I can't really see paying the $750 for...

I have been looking around the forum trying to find out how to put this new windshield in and I haven't had any luck! I have a 75 duster and a brand new windshield to put in it. I'll buy the gasket when the time comes. I had a glass guy that was going to do it for me but that's looking like it...

I would take the duster any day! Even if the duster had 2 mice running on a wheel under the hood and the mustang had the biggest motor ford made under the hood id still take the mopar!!! Think I'm turning into a mopar snob. Lol

Stay away from flow tech headers or any other brand that use that design where the tie rod goes threw the header. That's what was on my car when I bought it and I haven't got around to swapping them out yet because you have to pull the motor. That design traps the starter and you have to get a...

Sorry I don't know proper name for the "inner bumper" but when you remove the bumper there is a inner 1/4 thick steel frame BEHIND the chrome bumper. When you remove the bumper bolts the two halfs come apart.

I have the exact same problem. Lol just alittle trickle of antifreeze from the water neck. Chrome neck and a edelbrock airgap intake.

Not sure if it was mentioned before but you can shave a good 40-50 pounds by cutting steel out of the inner bumper. Did that on mine and the outside bumper still looks factory. You can go an extra step and get aluminum bumper brackets. Be another 30-40 pounds.

My local track 1/8 mile track seems to be getting less popular. I love it down there. The stands are empty for the most part but the staging lanes are generally full during the program. They raised there prices on things and people quit going. There's also more foreign cars down there than what...

Power to manual master cylinder swap on a 75 duster factory disk and small drums out back. I know someone on here has done the swap before! Help! Anybody! Hello!! Lol

Power to manual master cylinder swap on a 75 duster factory disk and small drums out back. I know someone on here has done the swap before! Help! Anybody! Hello!! Lol

I ran the positive wire from the battery threw the switch then from the switch to the starter. I have a fused distribution block Run off the switch aswell for my ignition and electric accessories. Not sure if that's the proper way of doing it but it works.

kinda thinking about going to manual brakes. Can someone walk me threw the process. I know I need a manual master cylinder and the correct length push rod. I found out the parts store by my house has a adjustable universal push rod I could order. The thing I'm needing help with is the linkage...

Thanks for the help! I know that the rear brakes are tight because I had to put shoes on them when I got the car and where adjusted. The front brakes looked like they where in good shape but I'm not 100% sure. I know things where built different back in those days my power steering feels like...

None are the lines are leaking from what I can tell. The peddle is nice and firm when the car is off then I start the car and the pedal loses its firmness. The brake booster and master cylinder was on it when I bought the car. The booster looked pretty new but it did sit for a longtime before I...

I also have a crankcase evac kit on it.

I have a 1975 duster midly built built 340 in it and I've just got it legal and have been driving it around alittle. It has power brakes with discs up front and drums in the back. I'm also running a line lock. Me and dad bled the brakes and they feel great but as soon as I start the car they go...

Figured I would jump on here and give an update on the problem so that it may help someone else. I got an input shaft seal kit from oreillys. pulled the steering column out and pulled the old seal out. There was a slight wiggle in the shaft itself but I replaced the old seal with the new one...

I bought a 440/727 from a friend awhile back and have been kinda kicking around the idea of putting it into my 75 duster. Does a big block 727 and a small block 727 trans mount in the same spot? Can I just reuse the crossmember, trans mount and driveshaft?

I'm pretty sure I've seen that guy at Carl Casper auto show. If not then there are 2 of them cats running around like that!

That dantesparts web site has the door seal plates I've been looking for. Anybody ever do buisness with them?

Work in progress

I have a quickfuel Q 750 on my 340. It was pretty exspencive but it is a very nice piece.

It is some good stuff and works well. But it is way overpriced in my opinion. I have afew more spots on my duster I want to do so I'm thinking of trying some of the cheaper sound deadning mat.