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There's a lot of greedy sellers looking for a rich guy. Too many rich guys now. I've had my '70 Dart for close to 30 years. It was all I could afford at the time and I never bought another car. I didn't like paying over $500 for any car at the time. One time I went to look at new cars but...

I got the new vacuum hose. 5/32". It expanded over the 1/4" fitting on the carb. Smog device gone!

Here's a couple pictures. I was trying to measure it. Looking inside the hole with a flashlight it has 3 narrow raised rubber bushings to cut down on friction. Also looks like a special double seal.

I didn't see any on that website.

I bought a tube of RTV. I'm going to seal the whole area behind the o-ring since it doesn't work.

I was looking at my stock 2 barrel carb. It has the same fitting as the distributor 3/16". The aftermarket holley is bigger at 1/4". I guess that's why my vacuum hose is so expanded looking. You'd think they would have kept it the same at 3/16". Oh well.

I just found the certificate of the smog install. Consumer Affairs Bureau of Automotive Repair. The date was 1977.

My brother had a '78 Amc that had one. I remember them hooking it up for the smog test. It overheated if left hooked up. Just like you said. I see an adapter that I could use. Dorman 47304.

My 70 Dart has the vacuum controls for ac/heater. I was wondering if anyone knows where to get the right grommet for the vacuum motor by the heater box. Mine ripped years ago and I put in a grommet from the hardware store that was loose. Then I sleeved the pushrod with a plastic drip hose to...

Yeah I figured it was something like that. I remember taking it apart and bypassing it. I use to have to do smog checks. There was also a window sticker with the smog kit number on it. I remember the smog guy got excited when he saw it.

This is still on my 70 Dart with a 318. I don't know when it was put on. The device has 2 spade connectors. It use to have a module that had a temp probe taped to the radiator hose. Plus a bunch of wires. The module is long gone and everything else. My question is how was this done from...

I just noticed some flashing on the side of the metal. Looks like they didn't get a good cut. Could of been affecting the spring tension. Some of the old spark plugs were up to 7.8k ohms. Ignition wires were up to 5.6k per foot. Coil wire was 6.9k per foot. Plus a chafed tach wire resting...

Thanks for the replies. It was an intermittent problem. More noticeable in the morning. I also put in a new ECU, checked carb, resistor, distributor, etc. So far so good.

I was doing a tune up on my 70 Dart. It hasn't been running too good lately. I noticed the rotor had some arcing or burn marks on it. Didn't see anything on the cap though. The rotor had 40k miles on it. I changed the wires,plugs and new cap and rotor. The wires and plugs had 90k on them...

I tried to fix my leaky tank years ago with a new o-ring. It still leaked after. I didn't use RTV on the tank though. Looks like I'm going to have to try that. I'm tired of the leak. Over 20 years now.

I knew a guy who had a chevy with the same problem. Turned out the cam went flat. We put a new cam in. Problem fixed.

I have one wheel with LH threads. I need to get those studs replaced but the brake drum is like pressed on them also.

I'm just going to leave my carpet burgundy or purple. Its not bad.

I had those shock extensions on my coronet. You really could get some height with those.

I flushed the lines out a few days ago. Found another wheel cylinder that had fluid behind the boot. I drained it and cleaned it. Checked it today and no leaks.

I had air shocks at one time. Too stiff. The coil shocks are much better. They have a good ride and allow give when adding more weight.

Good for you. Auto school got me nothing but a tire changing job which I quit.

Let me find a bunch of faded carpet threads. Here's a couple. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=74071 http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?48552-Carpet-Question-69-Road-Runner

Theres a picture of the carpet in my "view photos" under my avatar. It faded within a few years. Then it just stayed purple so I just left it. I paid 110 in 1992. I wonder if they make a spray on carpet dye. I don't feel like throwing away 150 or whatever it costs now.

I went to a trade school and had my car on an alignment machine. It would pull and the machine said it was in spec. The numbers are useless. I now use just a square and a tape measure and trial and error. These cars have a mind of there own.

For my car, there's a little spacer and sleeved nut they use for the air shocks or coil covered shocks to move it out further. Keeps it from rubbing because the shocks are bigger in diameter.

Mine faded quick from year one.

Ha Ha. The rear wheel cylinders are really cheap. Its the front ones that are much more expensive for some reason. I think I'll flush out my brake lines soon. Get rid of whatever's in there.

I've had a few start leaking in the past. Each time I just cleaned out the gunk inside the boots without taking it apart. It stopped leaking.

I use rubber. The thought of having to grease all the control arm bushings in addition to everything else seems kind of nuts. Unless your doing timed events, I wouldn't bother with poly.