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Need to sell. List of mods below - 318ci engine 727 auto transmission FBO Electric ignition Edelbrock dual plane intake manifold aftermarket cam 8 1/4 rear end Headers with dual 2.25 exhaust Carter 625cfm electric choke carb, fresh rebuild Checker auto fuel pump New water pump and...

All I know is its a 2 wire. Likely stock, but I have no idea. Its what came on the car.

I'm telling you guys, it was putting out 45 volts (used the multimeter myself) and popped every fuse in the car. It was a short in the wiring to the regulator that caused it, its been fixed. What a PITA.

Well, now I'm getting 45 volts off my alternator and the regulator isnt doing diddly. Is it likely a bad voltage regulator or could it be something else?

Took the car out for a spin. For those thinking about putting a single plane on a 318 street car. DO NOT DO IT. Night and day, the car is SO much fun to drive. Now I just have to put the nitrous on and GO.

Well, got it started for a few minutes but wasnt able to drive it. Its got a small leak at the tstat housing I need to fix, but I've already seen a difference. The single plane took a few tries to start - it would have to crank for a bit to fire. The dual plane fires almost instantly!

My new dual plane manifold has a provision for a heater line, but I'm using a port in my radiator for coolant and do not need the manifold option. What should I use to plug/cap it off? Its an Edelbrock Performer on a 318.

today was the only day this week I've had good enough weather to do this. Likely I'll let it sit until sunday when the snow coming in tomorrow melts.

Well, for those following my saga here's an update. A member on this board offered to trade his Eddy Performer manifold (dual plane) for my M-1 single plane. I have installed it and have only a few things left to hook up on it and I'll be taking it out for a drive. I'll post here what the...

Ok, so what kind of nightmare am I in for? I'm wanting to swap out the 2.73 gears in the rear for some 3.91s - should I just take the whole car down to a shop and have them do it, or can I do it myself?

When I had vapor lock, I just wrapped the fuel line as it passed the header with heat wrap. Problem solved.

The back end looks like the new eclipse. Ugh.

Make sure all your plug wires are plugged in on the distributor. Happened to me, same issues youre describing.

YOu guys are going to give me so much crap. We hooked the vacuum guage up and got half an inch. We were like, what the hell? We started looking at everything, and my friend reached back to adjust the timing on the distributor and got a massive shock. While he was hopping around holding his...

Ok, later today I'll be hooking up my new vacuum guage and compression guage. I'll post results when i get them.

I've got everything but the vacuum guage. We did tear the carb down with the edelbrock strip kit, and got the tuning kit for it as well. Timing tape is already on there, and the only thing I didnt do was retime the cam myself. The guy I bought motor from told me that it was set correctly...

The dual plane is going on. That is a given at this point. However, I seriously SERIOUSLY doubt that the manifold is making the car act as if god himself told the car to stop. It doesnt stutter or do anything if I floor it, it just DIES. As in the motor literally stops turning instantly.

Well, I found someone to trade my manifold with for a dual plane. We just got snow here in Denver so once it melts I'll hunt for vacuum leaks and check fuel pressure.

I still dont think the single plane is whats causing this. Regardless of the manifold, the car should not instantly DIE when you floor the pedal.

Well ****. Anyone want to trade for a single plane manifold?

Its warmed up, and it stalls when I floor the gas - not when the revs come down. The pump shot is at the lowest I think - but I'll have to check. Do not have a vacuum gauge, where would I hook it up at? I can get one. Edit - I mean, if I floor the gas hard, the car just stops instantly...

Ok, got the carb back on and it likes to stall if you floor the gas. I'm gonna get the WD-40 out and hunt for vacuum leaks. Any other ideas?

Well, we pulled the carb apart, and nothing looked out of the ordinary. I'm using .104 primary jets and the .068 x .042 rods. Its pretty damn rich, so I dunno if thats going to do anything for me. My friend thinks it might be the base timing is off, but I dunno. THoughts at this point...

I dont think I'll have the money for a new intake or gears for at least another 2 months (I owe on taxes) so I'll just get the carb working on the setup for now. I'll be tearing into the carb tonight, so I'll report back then what I find.

Hrmm.. Any suggestions on where to get the gears from?

Yeah its an auto. I have no idea whats wrong with me - should have put that in the first post.

I r dum Here's the lowdown. Eddie 600cfm carb, M1 single plane manifold, FBO whole she-bang ignition (electric, no points for me!), dual exhaust with headers, 8.25 rear end with 2.73 gears (came with the car) and Comp cams XE262 something or other cam. When you floor it in first, its got...

Ok... This isnt as stupid as it sounds I promise. I've finally gotten the damn car to stay running, and its got another issue. Off the line its pathetic. I mean, I realize its a 318 but DAMN, if i hit the gas it should go SOMEWHERE. It doesnt sputter or anything, it just doesnt really go...

Ha ha! A float was sticking. Was able to take it for a spin around the block, and its pretty pathetic down low. We're going to rebuild it tomorrow and see if that helps. Anything I should look out for? Would a problem with the floats make it run like *** down low and have poor throttle...

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