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I had really bad wheel hop at one time, I have a sure grip and only one tire would spin, and I would be sideways. I installed an old set of Lakewood traction bars, no more wheel hop, and car launches straight now.

215-70-14

Probably gas washed from not starting. Bring number 1 cylinder up, check that distributor is pointing to number 1 on cap, if it is not then you maybe 180 degrees out, or way out of time. Pull the plugs, and give them a good cleaning, they are probably gas fouled also. Double check your plug...

I had the same problem, and didn't want to dent a new set of $900 headers. I was able to mount the headers to the head, then get underneath and pull the collector over with a ratchet strap, just enough that when released created an 1/8" gap. Probably not the best way, but it worked for me, I...

I am not sure about the 5 speed lining up or not. The console is a tight fit but does fit fine just below the top of the seats.

okay, thanks for your advice.

I just checked it, TDC is good. I was thinking the same as you. I stopped worrying about the numbers on this engine, only using them for reference. I set initial to max RPM, and max vacuum, then back it off to where it doesn't kick back. I find my overall by driving up an incline in first gear...

stock cam for the magnum 360.

My next step was to use manifold vacuum to give the engine what it wants. The bottom end is stock 5.9 magnum, with advertised 9:1 compression. Not sure what seat to seat timing is.

it wants more than 22 degrees at idle, more like 26 or 28. I have run as high as 40 degrees total with no pinging. I do agree on the curve needing slowed down, I can add stiffer springs. Carb is an Edelbrock AVS, heavier springs is the only change from stock.

In at 2600, EQ heads with 2.02 valves installed.

No vacuum advance, 22 degrees initial. 36 all in.

93 octane no additives, NGK heat range 5, for a 5.9 magnum.

It is new, with less than 20miles on it. I too thought it may be lean, but like I said I am not sure.

I have been tuning this thing of and on this weekend, all 8 plugs look like this. I am not an expert on reading plugs, I was hoping someone could give a clue from looking at this.

mine

Will be there

You should be able to turn the dist. unless something is obstructing it and get some change in the timing. It doesn't take a lot of movement to get 10 degrees.

I had air shocks, shackles, and shock extenders.

Love this look.

Converter bolts

I wouldn't sell them, but I will give to anyone that wants it the STL, or STEP file for it. Then they can 3D print, or laser cut their own.

That is one of the reasons I made my own, it took me 3 variations to get it right, but now it is dead on.

Dont worry about the numbers on the plate, you already know it is misleading. Use that initial setting of 16* you placed it at and work your way back on the plate until you get the actual 16* you need. I have never used the FBO plate, But I did 3D print my own version using the same chart posted...

Here is how I check mine on the bench. I printed 7" degree wheel, I cut a small pie shaped section out of it, and put a hole big enough for the rotor to fit through snugly, so it won't easily slip. With the shaft of the distributor in a bench vice, put the rotor with the degree wheel in place...

Unplug the headlight switch, it may be the problem.

I was thinking the same.