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Thanks much. I'll PM you.

I have a small block distributor that came with clips that were not staked in place and one is now missing. Is there a good (low cost and readily available) source or sources for these? Thanks

Thanks for providing that as that is a piece of information I had been searching for earlier (too count fo 904 & 727 torque converters. For me obviously the starter section of a 10.5" small block bell housing would be best but I can pull my flywheel and add the correct converter if need be (I...

130 tooth (10.5")

OK. Let me know. Thank you

Correct. I have one. Read the last sentence of my post.

You're right. Of course the only safe way (without further data) would be to use a 904 converter and ring gear with the 904 casting and the same for the 727 parts.

Yes, you are correct but in the situation I'm dealing with, either are fine. What I'd like to know just out of curiosity is how the 904 & 727 converter diameters compare to 10.5" & 11" flywheels.

I'm looking for someone with a (non repairable) 904/727 or that has parts for same. I need the section where the starter mounts to cut-out and use on my engine while its on the stand (I dont' have space to add a full bell housing or automatic. Let me know if you might have something. I have...

The spec that seems to be universally accepted by many engine builders is +/- .010" of the target installed height.

did you look at the link I provided?

Hydraulic or solid? I have a similar, solid-lifter camshaft @ Ken recommended 110-125 seat / 310-325 Open. That corresponds to this: https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2012/08/recommended-valve-spring-pressures/

Gorgeous shop and 1st class race team.

Yes, that is what I thought as I had found a table that showed the features of each of the Ultra models and the Ultra Plus appeared as you described. @ $430 that's a good deal and is roughly $100 less than the PO.I. distributor with nearly identical features. Certainly parts and service would...

Agreed. But, both systems mentioned above are not mechanical but are fully blue-tooth controllable electronic systems. One has a control box and the other is integrated into the distributor (no control box).

I have that same (MSD BTM) set up you mentioned and while it works, it's not optimum. The P.I. distributor is extremely simple and fast and pulls timing when, where and how much you program it for. Not all at once. Apparently this new 6AL Utra Plus does the same for a little less $

Is your reference to the Ultra 6A, Ultra 6AL or the Ultra 6AL "Plus"?

Yes I had noted that as well. Probably a good and similar system functionally to the PI unit just that the Holley system uses a separate box.

A little more $ but ..... https://progressionignition.com/

Bingo! I was recalling this too as I started reading this thread.

Probably not just due to the added cost. With my new engine I've calculated 450 HP without the addition of water methanol. This is nothing by today's standards but not bad for "old technology" & 323 C.I. The design of the Magnuson is more efficient than a traditional roots supercharger in...

8 years ago, I started out with a similar plan to how yours has ended up. I modified an aftermarket manifold with a plenum I made and was planning to run an intercooler in. However the height of the initial assembly was too tall and violated my rule of clearing the hood. That's when I changed...

Sorry. I didn't do a build thread. I'm not good at taking the time to take pictures or to document things well enough for them to be clear.

I'm currently not changing anything other than adding a Progression Ignition distributor mainly so that I can retard timing with boost. I have a new engine ready for cam break-in and then I'll swap out the current engine for the new. A lot of fun. On the snout, after I had my supercharger...

I opted to take the path I did so as to have the smallest belt surface area and tensioner force to minimize parasitic loss but without getting into belt slippage. Belt type is another factor in what you can get away with. No issues with belt slippage but if I ever see that I'll increase...

For comparison, I run a 6-rib with no idler pulley and a tensioner that is barely offset. The 6 rib is what my Magnuson came with.

Also, how many ribs on your belt/pulleys?

Understood. I did realize that was a mock up but wondered why there was so much offset (while also running an idler pulley). Your tensioner sounds very adaptable and adjustable and offers some real benefits in addition to tensioning. What brand / model is it if you don't mind me asking?

Just curious why your tensioner is so far offset?

What carburetor is this? I assume a spec class with a 2-barrel requirement.