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Turns out my cooling system ran exceptionally well lol

Motor wasn’t properly chassis grounded. Once I added a ground from motor to chassis, battery negative to chassis, and motor to battery negative, everything worked fine. Resistance related I’d imagine

What’s not jiving? Sender was sending skewed readings because it was improperly grounded. Car wasn’t boiling over, wasn’t overheating the entire time.

Issue was solved with proper grounding

My assumption is that any electric sender operates using heat to affect resistance, which is what you’re reading on the gauge. If the system isn’t properly grounded, then the unit will give off skewed readings.

My fix was grounding to the chassis better lol - dropped my temp 40 degrees. Make sure your engine is grounded to chassis as well as battery, and make sure they’re GOOD grounds. I chased the issue all because my own basic negligence.

That’s what’s on there now

I’ll get some roller time next weekend. Assuming I’m going to be upping my profile a bit I may move over to a roller setup as well. We’ll see after I get a baseline

goal was to have a street night monster capable of low 12’s high 11’s, but also a car that Im able to cruise with to regional shows. It comes out of the hole great, but it just doesn’t shove me in the seat like I expected, especially into 3rd

Just a butt dyno. I have an LSX car (different animal) that makes 402rwhp and it’s a night/day difference to me and that car only runs 12.50 - granted that’s with a 2.1 60’

Not counting vacuum, I’m not even sure what I have for part throttle. I had some rattling at first and took some of the vacuum advance out (adjustable vac can), but I’m only talking WOT performance at the moment. As far as part throttle driving, you’d think the car was bone stock besides the...

Custom grind may be my best bet. My biggest concern and why I went with the voodoo line is that the car is a weekend warrior but I also cruise with it. I want enough low end that I can comfortably drive in occasional traffic without being miserable.

20, I only had about 16 degrees total change. However I don’t have an issue with performance under 2500rpm.

Timing is all in at 2500, dead nuts is advanced until I have a knock and retarded 4 degrees which ended up being 36 iirc.

Pretty much. Great low end grunt, but runs out of steam up top. They’re great flowing heads, I feel I’m probably not utilizing them with my current grind. I’ll most likely step up one if not 2 of the voodoo line

What kind of power would you guys expect to the wheels with this setup? The car is quick, but I though it would be faster. Timing is dead nuts, afr’s are on the rich side at 12:1 at the top. I have a 360 .030 over Zero decked the block with KB flat tops CR at 10.5:1 Imm EQ worked magnum heads...

3000 stall Seeing if anybody has one before I go buy a new one

Yessir, cut to get me down to approx 10.3:1 on my setup.

Just an update - he's using EQ castings and you can get them drilled in LA or Magnum as most everyone knows. My bad! BTW, they are SWEET

Hmm well I believe mine will be here today so I’ll give Brian a call and see what’s up if that’s the case. Sucks to lose the shaft rocker setup and have to swap intakes IMO just for simplicity.

That would make sense, the LA manifold will still fit?

Hmmm Brian told me the LA intake would work but I would need magnum rockers. I’ll have to see when they come in this week

Guys, looking to clear up a little confusion. I bought a set of IMM’s reworked indy’s to put on my LA 360. I understand they use the magnum style valvetrain. The obvious changes will be a longer set of oil-through pushrods and the magnum rockers. I did see a few things on th Hughes article...

Schneider #68044 #125 lbs. @ 1.65" #300 lbs. @ 1.15" 75 shipped - never run, NIB 2 were used to mock up an intake and exhaust valve and then put back into box. Never heat cycled, ready to go. Great springs for putting a good sized cam without having to machine your seats down. Highest spring...

I could be wrong, but that was my understanding

From what I’ve read, swirl port refers to the intake port behind the valve and the way the air is channeled through it.

?

ahhh! See I thought the 308’s had a big open chamber, I didn’t realize they had the heart shaped quench

If you read post 1 (like the others did), you’ll see I already did and there’s not really any info on them besides a couple vague posts.