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Electric and it does have the temp sensor with it.

I think I’ve posted these up before but I have a pretty good condition 72 bumper with good tail lights. The 71 valance is pretty rough but could be brought back to life if somebody wanted to do it. I bought them before realizing it wasn’t going to work out with my 74 Scamp. If I don’t sell these...

As the titles states and the pictures show, just a few parts I have laying around still from my car I’m not gonna use. Shift installation kit would be for mounting and attaching a floor shifter to a 904/727 trans. $100 obo and you can have it all. Would ship from 58554/ ND.

Yep! Had them on my 74 Scamp. Doug’s has them listed as 62-74, but they should still work out for you.

I have my set of Doug’s headers I no longer need. They’ve been ceramakoted locally and while they are a bit marred from installation and removal, but nothing serious. I did have to dent the d/s a little for clearance (engine wasn’t sitting right to begin with). They’ll come with a stud mounting...

That I don’t know. I’d have to ask my buddy but I do know these heads were worked over quite some time ago.

Extra pictures

Well I sold my Scamp as a roller so I now have my drivetrain to sell. I’m looking to sell it sooner than later. 1991 360 block (machine work listed in picture). Forged Scat rods/ Wiseco pistons. Stock crank. 9.85:1 CR. ARP main and head studs. Cosmetic MLS head gaskets. J heads worked over...

Car is located in Mandan, ND 58554 Looking at $6k but I’ll take offers. I’d like this car sold sooner than later. 91 360 block newly rebuilt engine with Wiseco forged internals bored 0.030" over, ARP main studs/ line honed (work done by Quality Engine in Fargo), ARP head studs, custom spec'd...

Its crossed my mind to get a plain ol 318 or 360 that’s running and install that, but long story short my current 360 was a PITA to install with the engine mounts, headers, and k frame I’m using. I’d dread pulling my engine out again and doing that run around.

I think that’s the best route to go about this. I’ll just need to do a little here and there without going full bore at it in a day trying to get as much done as you can. I’d rather enjoy my car than hate working on it.

Thanks fellas. I have so many avenues in my head to talk about, but I agree to keeping my family a priority. With so much going on in a very short three years I’ve had my Scamp, looking back I wish I had just replaced the /6 with a running one and kept it driveable. The younger me with ambition...

Hey guys, I don’t want to get too long winded here. October 2019 our basement flooded and since then we fixed it, sold our house, bought a new house, and just had our son two weeks ago. Our lives have been nothing less than busy and my Scamp has been on the back burner since October. With the...

I don’t mind shifting all the time. I have to when driving semi so doing it in my car won’t bother me lol so then if a guy doesn’t tie the TV cable fully back but say 3/4 then the shift points get lowered and things aren’t as bad? I know I’m probably asking some dumb questions and I’ve read up...

Sorry for the late reply here. Yes I’ll be running an auxiliary trans cooler (a B&M). What’s a high rpm for the shift point if the TV is tied all the way back then, 2,500/3k/3,500?

I’ve dug through some other posts about this and some have kind of an open ended answer. I’m going to using a B&M promatic 2 instead of the column shift and I’m wanting a manual valve body, so I’ll be going with a TransGo tf 3 kit to use in my current valve body while I save up for a trans...

I might be using a washer if I can’t find a bolt with a washer head on it. RT specialties has a bolt set for $20 which isn’t bad but can anyone measure the bolts if they have some laying around?

Anyone have the length for the bellhousing bolts? I know they’re 3/8 but when I get my engine mated to the trans I don’t want to get in the predicament of not having the appropriate bolts to use. I don’t have any bolts either since the engine and trans were not mated prior so I need to get some...

Anyone have a particular filter base I should use then? Or will any decent flat base work good that’ll fit my setup?

I never got to looking at eBay for filters. Thanks for the link I may just get one of those.

The element on top is the one I was referring to right?

Even on a pretty decently built 360? It’s not a stock 360 by any means.

Hey guys what do you run for an air filter? I have a Holley 4160 carb I’ll be running for now on a edelbrock performer intake on my 360. I’ve been looking at the K&N filters that don’t need a lid as the filter material is on the top of element not just the sides, p/n 66-3040. Anyone run one and...

PTC...I didn’t catch my phone changing it. Yeah they’re 7/16”. Those factory crank bolts are gonna hold up to that power tho?

Well what is it, they’ll hold or they won’t? I have a B&M flexplate and a PTI converter for a turbo.

Alright that’s perfect. Thank you!

Will the stock bolts hold up past 600 hp tho?

Hey guys what’s the part number for the bolts that you use for the crank to flex plate? I didn’t have any when I got my engine. I also have ARP 200-2903 bolts, are they correct for the flex plate to converter if it’s a 7/16” hole? I never got converter bolts either so I’m not sure what the...

So to correct myself in my original post, I have a Hurst Promatic 2 not a B&M. Any who I contacted Holley and they gave me a parts list of things I’ll need to install my shifter, like the cable, some bolts, indicator light, etc. I have a reference number for when I order the parts list. When I...

So guys question about the shifter I posted in my OP. It says B&M on the handle but Hurst is on the shifter arm. There’s not p/n or model or anything else on the whole thing so which shifter should be assumed it is, B&M or Hurst? I haven’t had a chance to call on it due to fighting a flooded...