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Thank you for helping me find it hopefully this can continue going smoothly once these get here

Wasn’t letting me add photo in the post

I’ve removed my leaf spring and I have these mounts for the shackles and on my passenger side I definitely need to replace it. What is the name of this part and where can I find it I haven’t had much luck on the usual sites.

that does make a lot of sense.

I will try that however I do not think it is frozen as I’m in Florida.

I have a 76 duster with a crate motor 360 magnum that is a year old. Recently it’s gotten cold and warmed up a few times where I am. This cause backfiring through the exhaust, which I at first thought was the timing jumping. However I later realized some bolts on the exhaust were off. So, after...

I brought an unassembled 8 3/4 rear end with new parts and a shop wants 476 for 4 hours of work to assemble it. This seems rather high I was expecting 200-300 range any advice on this

Holley carb doesn’t return to idle when taking my foot off the gas sometimes. When I take my food off the gas the rpms don’t drop instead I have to lift up on the gas. Moving the accelerator cable return springs doesn’t stop it from hanging, and I’m not sure what other part of the carb would fix it.

Here is a photo of the side that hasn’t come out yet but is on it way

I’m not sure what that means should the metal rod be nearly centered in the square tube?

I should be able to get some pics in maybe an hour and a half, but that sounds like what happened. The rubber inserts had 2 flat pieces that were ends wider than the metal, and on both sides those have ripped off at the back and both are being pulled up the hanger towards the front of the car.

On my new exhaust system the hangers at the end of the tailpipe are having the square rubber insert coming out of the square tube, and the metal pipe is rattling around in that tube, and I can’t seem to force it back in. Anyone ever dealt with this. The exhaust systems less than a year old. If I...

I’ve got a 76 duster with some rust issues on the a pillar and the metal over the doors as well as where the roof meets the rear window I have pictures of these spots but I’ve not fixed any rust before and was hoping I could get some advice for fixing these spots and possibly prevent it from...

it felt a bit loose but the cancel worked and you could feel it click in however it seems if you hold down the lever it flashed once and another time flashed slowly and this was for left blinker and right

No they do not I’m not sure if some wire could have been knocked out of place while messing with my coil or ballast resistor. do you know if there’s some way to test the turn signal switch

I found two bad fuses but still no turn signals

Haven’t checked the brakes but all the fuses look good

No it’s the box in the engine bay the ignition system connects to I don’t know how it might be related but it only happened a day after that

After I’ve replaced my ignition module for a 1976 duster none of my turns signals work I don’t have blinking left or right in the dash or from front and back lights

I didn’t realize that I will see I thought it was just the one element for both

So, When I turn my lights on in my 76 Plymouth duster the headlights and the passenger side running light turn on but not the driver side, but the turn signal still works on both sides and I was wondering if anyone has anyone dealt with this before

The plunger of the brake switch is slipping off the pedal when it’s close enough to actually be pressed in by the pedal. Which means the brakes lights are always on has anyone ever dealt with this before

I dont have a ralley i meant the oil pressure light not the gauge im not sure how much of a difference that makes however. It stopped working after i replaced the sending unit, because it seemed it was giving an inaccurate reading

Hello everyone Ive got a temperature gauge which does not have any reading on a 1976 duster the fuel gauge and oil switch do however work, so I was looking for some advice finding the likely problem. Ive grounded the engine to the frame, and i didnt get it to work.

The problem was unrelated to anything with the carb or vacuum leaks but instead the fact that I have the bracket holding the throttle cable and return springs move backwards slowly which led to the springs not pulling it back enough to set its actual idle to the right spot

It was running fine before drove my friend around because the engine swap was recently finished stepped on it at one point and it stayed revving high in neutral nothing purposeful was changed

No none of the valves are opening

Those are not connected to the carb but there is a line from the distributor but nothing has changed with that line

It is not opening the the valves I’m not sure how it’s getting air like this

No but I’m definitely getting on as soon as possible