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Not at all, on the contrary. This is exactly what I'd hope someone would bring up if they felt there was an issue. Help me understand, what do you mean the converter is the problem? Took everyone's advice and spent a pretty penny on the converter Precision recommended for the setup.

Boy, 10.2's are long ways from where I'm at. Seems to be running strong, and doesn't seem to be spinning the tires on the launch. Would there be that much left in the suspension and launch technique?

No, have been reading about that. Will put it on the list to do for sure before we race again, but it's definitely not the cause of the right pull if that's what you were thinking. As mentioned above, it's because the right tire stays in contact with the ground steering the car to the right.

I looked at that on the big screen trying to figure it out myself, it's actually the driver's side leaf spring. If you watch on a bigger screen, you can see it expose itself as the car loads up.

Thanks, I'm glad someone caught that. The car is lifting the left tire but it doesn't lift enough to get the right tire off the ground, which is causing it to veer to the right. Then I'm correcting it, which is where the left turn is coming into play. The car seem like it's twisting, but it has...

Trick flow 240's

Here is the current discussion thread where I posted a time slip. But it ran a 10.98, still trying to figure stuff out. First launch in new big block cuda - video

You guys are good at deciphering the time slips. Maybe you can give me some pointers on this one. I'm still trying to figure out the shift pattern, as with the 727 with 392 gears, it seems at one point I hit the rev limiter on the 1st and 2nd shift and then again as I crossed the finish line...

In case you didn't see this.

Thanks for your input. I've had a chance to run the car at the track, so I will be pulling the plugs next. I'll be out of town for a while, but I'll post up picks of the plugs when I get back. Thanks.

Thanks. I have a lot to learn about setting up shocks. That's completely foreign to me. Looks like a four week wait for them, so I should have time to start studying up!

440 stroked with 440source 512 kit. Victor intake with 950 quick fuel carb, mad ignition. Precision 3500 stall, manual valve body 727 with lots of strong parts, 392 gears in original 8 3/4. SS springs with snubber. I have a 150shot kit sitting on the shelf I might put in this winter. Car...

The weather finally came around, and gave us a few hours to run the car before rain showed back up. Was able to run the car three times. First two were shake down runs that I shut it down half track. The entire car is new and I had no idea what gremlins lie in waiting. The only video the kid was...

In some pictures it has a passenger side mirror, in other pictures it doesn't?

I have a 2017 2500 with the 6.4, I test drove a handful of them before buying this one with 19000 miles on it. I have 90k on it now. Been a great truck. The trick to a smooth riding 3/4 ton is to get the off road package, it comes with blistine shocks and is night and day difference from a...

Even though that app didn't work for me first time, I'll definitely try it again once the modifications are made and see what it says.

I measured off of crank face, pinion snubber location, output shaft end and also a linear cast molding line in the side of the tail shaft. All have almost exact measurements of 2* to 2.25* down. But thanks for the idea anyway. Thanks for double checking my math, thats what I figured, -3* to...

Yes, I posted it up above. It was 0.75 degrees up.

So this is the stuff that drives me bonkers. There are loads of threads and posts that will come out right and contradict what your saying. That driveshaft angle doesn't matter and its all about trans output shaft angle and pinion angle. See post 14 and 18 in this thread linked below to see...

So even though I'm showing only ".75 of a degree up" right now, as I rotate the pinion down, my driveshaft angle should change too. So its a moving target to get those correct numbers?

I did measure off of multiple points, including off of the crank pully face and it was all within half a degree, and that could have been me. Thanks for the thought though.

I jut ran out to the shop and threw the driveshaft in the car and took a reading. The static driveshaft angle is 0.75* up.

So NOT 5 to 7 degrees down from parallel of trans output? Here I was thinking the 5-7 figure was how much further down from trans angle you should be while the vehicle is static. If thats right and it's based off of pinion angle to driveshaft angle, why bother knowing what the trans angle is...

I guess I could have worded that better. I should have said "parallel to absolute level" instead of "parallel to ground".

Thank you for that. I've read tons of articles today on this subject and very few had any pictures to explain what they were doing.

Thank you, that simplifies what I was trying to say. From everything I've read, 5* to 7* down angle should be utilized for launching drag applications. Such as this. So if I wanted to get it to 5* down, I would need a 7* shim, OR cut the perches and relocate which is what I'm going to do, just...

Thanks for the response. I suppose I should have prefaced my post with what I've done for research. I've been reading and searching through the forums most of the day to get a handle on driveline angles and how it all works. I did download that app. It was very inconsistent and didn't reflect...

The previous owner installed SS springs on my '67 barracuda. I just rebuilt the 8 3/4 and decided to check the pinion angle as it didn't look right. I haven't driven it down the road more then a 1/4 mile as I've been busy doing other repairs. So I don't know if it has any vibration at speed...

I meant, what timing did you end up settling on?

I have a MSD pro billet distributor and msd blaster coil. What did you end up going with?