First launch in new big block cuda - video

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I watched that video around 10 times trying to figure out what is going on during your initial hit. It’s pulling hard right and coming back left when the chassis rests. If it was pulling the wheels more it would probably make you abort the pass. I’m getting ready to go racing tomorrow but if someone could watch it on a bigger screen it would be more obvious. Any chance a shock is bottoming out, are the frames tied?
 
Is that the passenger side rear shock I’m seeing in this picture. Stretch it bigger with your fingers
8B8373F4-DCA3-42A3-BE51-6E640E5716B6.png
 
I would try leaving off the foot and not have the suspension all tensed up by leaving off a two step.
You have a dinky convertor to begin with, off the foot at lower rpm might hit it harder, plant it better.
The 60 foot you are getting from it is because you have 500 inches of torque producing motor on tap.
Your currently getting the performance of a stock stroke 360 with Eddie heads.
I have no idea where to start, at that weight, car should run 10.20’s with what you have
 
pittsburghracer said:
I watched that video around 10 times trying to figure out what is going on during your initial hit. It’s pulling hard right and coming back left when the chassis rests. If it was pulling the wheels more it would probably make you abort the pass. I’m getting ready to go racing tomorrow but if someone could watch it on a bigger screen it would be more obvious. Any chance a shock is bottoming out, are the frames tied?
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Thanks, I'm glad someone caught that. The car is lifting the left tire but it doesn't lift enough to get the right tire off the ground, which is causing it to veer to the right. Then I'm correcting it, which is where the left turn is coming into play. The car seem like it's twisting, but it has frame connector in and is solid.

I have a set of double adjustable Vi-king shocks on the way. I felt like that shock setup was causing it to roll over on the passenger rear, lifting the drivers front. Not sure, but that's how it felt.
 
pittsburghracer said:
Did you ever measure the rear slick circumstance and compare each other.
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No, have been reading about that. Will put it on the list to do for sure before we race again, but it's definitely not the cause of the right pull if that's what you were thinking. As mentioned above, it's because the right tire stays in contact with the ground steering the car to the right.
 
Minnesota Muscle said:
I looked at that on the big screen trying to figure it out myself, it's actually the driver's side leaf spring. If you watch on a bigger screen, you can see it expose itself as the car loads up.
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Yes I’m sorry drivers side. I was trying to do to much at the same time.
 
Minnesota Muscle said:
No, have been reading about that. Will put it on the list to do for sure before we race again, but it's definitely not the cause of the right pull if that's what you were thinking. As mentioned above, it's because the right tire stays in contact with the ground steering the car to the right.
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need a loose shock setting on the left and stiffer on the right.
I had a super stock spring 9 sec car years ago, had a chassis guy watch me. Fixed it in one pass( staggered air pressure in rear tires…car about went around at half track.. but straight out of the gate.
Even cheap CE 3 ways, like i had, can fix that. My left rear tire was actually coming off the track at launch
 
B3422w5 said:
I would try leaving off the foot and not have the suspension all tensed up by leaving off a two step.
You have a dinky convertor to begin with, off the foot at lower rpm might hit it harder, plant it better.
The 60 foot you are getting from it is because you have 500 inches of torque producing motor on tap.
Your currently getting the performance of a stock stroke 360 with Eddie heads.
I have no idea where to start, at that weight, car should run 10.20’s with what you have
Click to expand...

Boy, 10.2's are long ways from where I'm at. Seems to be running strong, and doesn't seem to be spinning the tires on the launch. Would there be that much left in the suspension and launch technique?
 
Minnesota Muscle said:
Boy, 10.2's are long ways from where I'm at. Seems to be running strong, and doesn't seem to be spinning the tires on the launch. Would there be that much left in the suspension and launch technique?
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i am not looking at a calculator, but going 120 at under 3000 pounds can’t be more than 450 horse or so.
With those heads and 500 inches it should run low 10’s at that weight. Not trying to pick on ya bro, just saying what I think.
My 10 to 1 360 with mildly ported Eddie heads went almost 119 at 400 pounds heavier than your car is.
Not sure what the issues are, the convertor though is killing lots of ET, I guarantee you. Nice looking car you have, she is a beauty.
 
Please don’t think we are picking on you. Sometimes people see something or have dealt with the same issues and can save you time and money getting her dialed in. I just love seeing guys out having FUN. Have a great year.
 
B3422w5 said:
i am not looking at a calculator, but going 120 at under 3000 pounds can’t be more than 450 horse or so.
With those heads and 500 inches it should run low 10’s at that weight. Not trying to pick on ya bro, just saying what I think.
My 10 to 1 360 with mildly ported Eddie heads went almost 119 at 400 pounds heavier than your car is.
Not sure what the issues are, the convertor though is killing lots of ET, I guarantee you. Nice looking car you have, she is a beauty.
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Not at all, on the contrary. This is exactly what I'd hope someone would bring up if they felt there was an issue.

Help me understand, what do you mean the converter is the problem? Took everyone's advice and spent a pretty penny on the converter Precision recommended for the setup.
 
Minnesota Muscle said:
Not at all, on the contrary. This is exactly what I'd hope someone would bring up if they felt there was an issue.

Help me understand, what do you mean the converter is the problem? Took everyone's advice and spent a pretty penny on the converter Precision recommended for the setup.
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a 3500 flash( I assume 10 inch) vert isn’t going to be the fastest way down the track with that combo. I assume it’s a 10 inch
 
Do a rolling flash stall check in high gear.
That’ll tell you what the actual stall speed is.

As I recall the cam is like 254/260?
If you’re trying to get the best ET possible, you’ll want at least around 4500 stall.

If it’s a street/strip car, then you have to decide on which way the compromises go........ better ET’s or better street manners.

The Moroso slider shows your speed/ET to be well matched.
Imo, the 60’ time is also in line.

But the power it’s showing at 3k lbs is way off.

D8F87C12-33B3-4C33-9A64-9B14ED49DAD1.jpeg
 
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Like Demonracer said, id try to get the weight confirmed. I'll bet its 300-500 lbs heavier than you think it is.
And a tight 5000 converter would do wonders.....
 
Minnesota Muscle said:
The weather finally came around, and gave us a few hours to run the car before rain showed back up. Was able to run the car three times. First two were shake down runs that I shut it down half track. The entire car is new and I had no idea what gremlins lie in waiting. The only video the kid was able to get was of the second pass.

Running a two-step off of a line lock. Only launched at 1800rpms instead of the 3500 it is built for. We'll be goin back this Wednesday to play with it more. But it's obvious the Mopar drag shocks are getting way over powered. All week I've been in discussion with the guys at PST for some double or triple adjustable shocks.

Anyway, third run was 10.99 as I short shifted the first two and hit the rev limiter in third before the end of the track.

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What's that front clip, do you have a thread on it?
 
I’d also put reweighing the car on my to-do list.
At the track or at a friends who has race car scales.

Just to verify what you have.
 
Minnesota Muscle said:
Boy, 10.2's are long ways from where I'm at. Seems to be running strong, and doesn't seem to be spinning the tires on the launch. Would there be that much left in the suspension and launch technique?
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We have no way of knowing.
But I'll bet you have 150+ more horsepower at 5000, than at 3000. If it hooks with 150 more horsepower, it WILL run harder.
I changed from a generic 4000 converter to a 5200 custom converter in my powerglide brake car. Picked up two tenths and three mph, in the eighth. I'm guessing lots of racers here have similar stories.
 
In addition to all the previous suggestions made......

Don’t make any big changes to the car until it’s got quite a few more runs on it.
Work on launch technique, tire pressure, shift points, etc.
Get it consistent....... then, if you’re inclined....... work on the “combo” to improve the ET.
 
PRH said:
In addition to all the previous suggestions made......

Don’t make any big changes to the car until it’s got quite a few more runs on it.
Work on launch technique, tire pressure, shift points, etc.
Get it consistent....... then, if you’re inclined....... work on the “combo” to improve the ET.
Click to expand...
Excellent advice, couldn't agree more.
 
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