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This. Or just cup you hand over the center carb to choke it out by hand. Pay close attention to engine idle speed as you do this. If the engine rpm rises slightly before it stalls, there is a vacuum leak. Not uncommon for these manifolds to leak under the valley pan. Using an aerosol spray...

Agree with all this

I agree that the drag radial tire, 4.30 gear and 2.08 sixty ft. does not make a lot of sense to me. Even with a stock/tight converter. To the OP, how much track time have you had with the car? My gut tells me that as it sits, even with the stock converter, it should run a 1.9 sec. sixty ft...

Still not clear to me what the goal is. Are you ever planning to race at the track? If no, then why?, street racing? Lots of response regarding reaction time, but if you’re never racing, it will never matter. If it’s about best potential et, i.e best 60’, the only place to make that better...

Generally speaking, the very fastest hydraulic FT cams will have about 42 to 44 degrees less duration than their advertised duration at 0.050”. Examples are Lunati Voodoo and Comp’s Mopar only HL lobes. This rule will change a bit if the supplier’s advertised duration is measured at something...

The 0.050” duration numbers are significantly incorrect.

Not sure what your goal is, but personally i wouldn’t knowingly put a 1000 gram rod in anything.

This too.

Step one is to determine if what you have is performing about the way it should. None of us can know this based on the info you have given us. Second, you really need to get clear on what exactly you want from your car. Few people actually go to the track to achieve meaningful performance...

It worked fine before, then it didn’t. Do you think the original white that worked before is worn-out?

Actually no. Not all good advice. At least not for what you described. This is the problem with a vague problem description. Can you discern one from the other? Alternatively, what might been poor advice could be good advice if there are other details that you have missed.

If it is a VS carb (3310?) and it’s truly an instant bog when going hard to WOT from a stop or slow roll, it’s in the primary side of the carb and likely squirted/pump related. But don’t change anything during the rebuilt.

Too little info to say with any certainty what the problem was. But it doesn’t matter. Proper rebuild and tuning and the problem will go away.

You'll be fine with the 3/4 groove.

1.70 second 60 ft times? Maybe the converter is bad and eating up power?

I don’t know the weight of your car, or your track day weather conditions, but I think a 10.8:1 CR, 500 in motor w/ TF heads in an A Body is normally a very low 11 sec. street car. I don’t know if cut-outs will help, but I do know that you don’t need them for low 11s. I really think that...

This is at about 40 ft out against a Demon 170. He caught me at the 330 like I was standing still. He trapped at 146 mph.

Of course modern muscle running 11.70s, or a lot faster is not uncommon.

Hmmm. I don’t think I’ve owned an FM radio for 25 year other than what’s in the car and don’t use.

My car won’t accelerate on a freeway ramp with 02 numbers below 10.5, and starts coughing and bucking in the 9s. Assumed they were incorrect.

Even without DA info, his data and results seem to line up pretty well, IMO. And that is not always the case.

Thanks for posting Can you put up the 11.52 time slip too? Thanks

The 9315s are still on mine. I like the lower seat and over the nose pressures and less spring rate than the 943s. Still good valve control to 6800.

That’s good. Make sure you check under each pair of intake runners

Wow. Keystone Raceway, Right? Steve took this picture of mine

Don’t think you’ll see or feel any difference in a street car.

Your patience and tolerance are commendable.

I didn’t read all eleven pages. Is this a hydraulic cam with typical hydraulic valve springs pressures?

No, don’t do this. The converter needs to go on the transmission first. Then spin it until it drops the rest of the way on engaging the pump. Otherwise you’ll likely do damage.

Clarification. They can get real close on estimating the miss alignment portion with the pictures you have. They cannot really tell much about angular fit.