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I can pull my cable through the sleeve at the speedo all the way out of the transmission and put it back in with no issues. Spins as expected. I expect it's supposed to be square farther in. From what I can tell the copper peace is just a collar, the metal part inside is the magnet. I found...

Still looking for a pic if anybody has one lying around. It appears it should be a square connector. Found another video that looks like mine, but I can't see in there. I'm wondering if the previous owner drilled out the magnet on mine for some reason, but I don't have a reference to be sure.

750 RPM is what I used to dial it in, presuming I can trust my tach/dwell meter.

Thanks guys. I got it set just shy of 10 degrees and I took it on the highway. Looks like the pinging is gone. Thanks everybody for your help.

Guess I must have missed it. Will do.

The yellow mark is where TDC for piston 1 is. I'm presuming that's the correct one as it looks like there's a mark on both sides of the balancer. Problem is now, I've got it timed to 0 degrees and it falls on it's face when punching the gas from idle. Revs fine if I start it at maybe a grand...

Looks like VIM tools also makes one. Model V103. Also discontinued. Not seeing anything recently on eBay for that one.

I may just buy me a long 7/16 box wrench, heat it up and bend it until I can find an appropriate tool. I see they pop up on eBay once in a while.

Pulled spark plug for cylinder 1 and checked TDC. The yellow mark is dead in the middle of the dwell as far as I can tell. Time to hunt for a distributor wrench for this thing.

Okay, figured out the problem. It boils down to... I'm an idiot. I didn't realize there was a second bolt on the bottom of the clamp plate that went into the distributor that allows it quite a bit of adjustment. So, my struggle with my own incompetence is just getting started.

Got to play around with the timing today. With timing set at top dead center on the yellow mark it runs at a much lower RPM and seems more responsive. The only problem is, it's a tooth off. I'll pull the distributor cover off and for example, it's a 6 o'clock. I try and get it to 5 o'clock...

Yes. I'll be doing it. I got caught up at work the past couple of days.

The arrow pointing at the harmonic balancer is where the timing cover shows 0 degrees. I'll see about trying to pull it to the yellow mark and see what happens, but if I recall, doing that made the car run like trash.

Found this on eBay and it looks like mine. Maybe I'm missing something that supposed to be inside? https://www.ebay.com/itm/166448656856

I can turn the brass part where the cable connects by hand and dance the needle. Not sure what would cause it to wear that badly. Thanks for checking.

I didn't think it was worth mentioning since I wasn't sure which mark was for top dead center. I plan on pulling plug one and going through the process again to verify what's what, but after getting the engine up to temp and pulling the vacuum advance, 0 degrees is below at 750 RPM. I guess...

I got in a replacement and swapped it out. It was a beast to get the nut off. They knew it was broken. They tried to use some kind of epoxy to keep in in there. That's why it was so hard to get out, but we're good to go.

Got the light. It's consistent now, but looks to be out of whack. You found my old thread from when I was working on it the first time. Looks like the EGR has been blocked off already. This is honestly above my head. I'll see if I can read it a few times and figure it out.

Not sure I have access to high octane racing fuel. This is going to be a daily driver, not a track car, so I'd prefer to tune it to regular gas. Not sure what a sheet metal top looks like. Distributor is original, but the hoses, cap, wires and gear are new. Carburetor has been rebuilt...

It's for a 64 Barracuda. Oldmanmopar is correct. It was a conversion from standard on the column to a slap shift auto. Thanks all!

Is there supposed to be something that seals the column inside the engine bay? The fan is blowing hot air up the shaft into the cabin. It looks like there's holes for something to mount, but I'm not sure what that should be.

Car idles fine and cruises fine, but pings when accelerating. I suspect timing. It's a 1973 225ci Slant 6 with a Carter BBD 2 barrel carb in a 1964 Barracuda. It has an electronic ignition installed, not sure if that makes any difference. I'm not trusting my timing light. It's one of those...

That looks similar to my routing. If it is pinched, it's not pinched enough to restrict the venting. I've blown compressed air through it and it seems fine. Plus if it was restricted, I wouldn't expect to burp gasoline from it. Below is what was originally installed in my car before I...

I need to remove my quarter window trim and in order to do so, the felt needs to come out so I can access the screws. Is there a trick to this? I'm trying to keep from bending anything and breaking (any more) tabs, but it seems counter intuitive. Looks easy to pop in, but kinda a pain to get out.

Found them. Just didn't know what I was looking for. They are in the pinch weld under the quarter panel. I couldn't see light coming through from the outside to the inside so I did what any sane person would do and dumped a gallon of water in there from the cabin. Created a muddy mess and I...

While driving around, it spins and I can't force it to stop with my fingers, so I expect the cable and transmission are fine. All the online pictures I've found of the cables don't show ends so I can't confirm what it should look like.

I have them, but not sure where they are supposed to go on my 64 Barracuda. Does anybody have any reference pics? https://www.detroitmuscletechnologies.com/mopar-63-66-a-body-and-62-65-b-body-frame-torsion-bar-splash-shields/

Hmm. Maybe the cable is the wrong type. My dad has 66 Mustang he's restoring and we pulled the cable out and tried it on his speedo since he had it removed from the cluster and it slipped right in and worked a peach. What I'm running into is they've changed out what I presume was a standard...

The cable end is square, but it's like twisted. I'm not sure if that's how its designed or if it's damaged. The cable isn't broken as I can pull it all the way through the sheathing from the transmission and that end is square metal. Cable looks good to me.