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I’m going to make a post there in a bit, very heavy thunderstorms going on right now so can’t get out there. Is there anything you can do to limit the power loss or is the pipe just too small?

I actually saw some Sanderson block huggers on marketplace near me for $200. Thinking about just getting those.

I already have the front end up pretty far from t bars, going to look into getting bigger wheels and tires which will hopefully help some in the meantime. What are the biggest wheels and tires yall have been able to fit in an a body?

I am going to be converting it to a 4 speed soon, I’m seeing stuff about having a modified z bar. Where can I find one to buy?

I’ve got a 74 valiant with a 360 and I’ve got some long tube headers in it now. Maybe hooker long tubes? They work fine but they have such little clearance underneath and scrub on all speed bumps and even the road at times on big dips. Are there any brands that tuck up into the body better or is...

When swapping to an 8.8, do I have to do anything with the brakes under the hood? Have everything ready to do the swap.

The yellow wire seems like it’s the switched, there is a bigger red wire coming into it from the starter relay which is the power.

So if I unplug the original module I can just tie into the brown coil positive

So I can not use the ballast and tie the blue and brown wires to the red. If I do that should I just tie the yellow fan wire into the ignition run? I have a 4 prong ballast so just trying to figure out how it would be vs the 2 in the diagram I plan on keeping the original stuff all there in...

It’s a 74 valiant.so the blue wire coming in is the run, which wire is the switched power? The brown wire on the right side goes to the distributor. Which is the coil+wire?

I am planning on installing this ignition system. I know I’m supposed to bypass the ballast just looking for help with which wires to use. I also have a wire running to a fan relay that someone wired into the blue/yellow wire. Where can I rerun this once I bypass it?

The yoke came with it when I bought it

I saw someone say I’d have to shorten it so I’ll probably just have my driveshaft shortened. I’ve got a 489 case and the trans came out of a 74 challenger.

So if I order the axles off dr diff is there anything else I need? I heard that the u bolts and shock plates won’t fit

I’ve got a 1974 Valiant with front discs so I’ve got bbp. I have an e body housing im having shortened and I have a body axles that have been drilled for bbp. I’m assuming I have 10” in drums in the rear which I’m hoping to use. Can I use the backing plates from my 7.25? And is there anything...

Another thing is when I have the radiator cap off and I squeeze the upper coolant tube to let any air out the heat will be warmer for a while and the engine seems to run cooler. But after a while driving it goes back to before.

It had factory ac,I don’t know for sure about the 360 that was swapped in though. I have new pulleys but not the pump.

My plan is to change the thermostat for a new 180 just to see what happens. Ive been thinking about changing the water pump for a high flow one but havent done it yet. The heater not working and the bubbling I see from the radiator fill make me think air is getting into the system

What about the heater not blowing hot, wouldn’t that be something wrong in the system?

I will attach a picture of the setup

My 360 la has been running hot lately it gets up around 220. I have a 26in aluminum radiator and 2 electric fans with a 180 thermostat. It has some bubbling in the radiator when I take off the fill cap so I’ve been thinking that maybe the head gasket is leaking exhaust into coolant. When I start...