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I remember from my youth (1970's) using Mopar gear lube for sure-grip differentials. Boy did that stuff stink. I think it had some kind of whale oil in it

Spend your money on a fan shroud and some weatherstrip foam tape to seal it to the radiator and remove the electric fan.

I worked for a truck driver training school ( semi) before working for a local gov. fleet. I would tell people I thought I'd seen everything at the school until I went to the gov. There is a difference between amateurs and professionals.

It's all about money now. I was a mechanic ( technician) at a government fleet (medium and heavy trucks) and was told all the time by the higher ups that they could get repairs done cheaper by dealers. Fortunately most of the dealers for the mounted equipment were hours away. Usually had to...

And hot and cold may be different.

One car. One engine. PSM still have different engines even though heavily factored.

When you get a shroud if you have a gap between it and the radiator seal it with some foam weather strip. Doing this made a big difference on the class 7/8 trucks and construction equipment I used to work on. Also keep an eye on how far your fan is in the shroud.

Won't work without being loaded. You will need a helper or a remote starter switch.

I would do a voltage drop test from bat+ to starter+ and from bat- to starter case when hot cranking. Will need a helper but will confirm or condemn wiring. Should be less than 0.5v. I have 30ft test leads. HF has them for around $20.

Voltmeter is best but test light would work. Start at battery with headlights or key or both on and see where you have power and not. Wiring diagram helps.

On the trucks I worked on with fan clutches the fan would engage 10 degrees above the thermostat. 180 thermostat fan engages at 190 and so on.

I saw a member on FBBO (JimKueneman) is setting up to make the plastic wire connectors.

Just think of how a mechanic/technician back in the day at a dealership working for flat rate did it!

I'm asking if this is worth a 5 hr. drive each way for me and an overnight?

So after reading all the comments I guess you have to check everything when using a Lakewood or Quick Time safety bell housing. Your luck will vary.

And Don't forget the off road clubs and shops.

I have used a HF C frame ball joint/universal joint press on three F150"s. For under $100 and all I had to do was to make an additional spacer to pull the new ball joints in all the way.

Just a stupid question. Why? Unless this is a race, high rpm, large clearance build I would think the stock 3/8' pickup would be sufficient. The machine work to convert to 1/2" tube is usually done with block machining not at final stages. Some additional oil flow can be made by de burring and...

I would start by checking battery voltage while cranking. Then I would do a voltage drop test between the pos. battery and the ignition module while cranking. Then from the neg. battery to the ignition module base that should be grounded to the body. Diagnose before replacing parts.

There is a guy in MI. that makes bases for carter, edelbrock afb and avs carbs. I think he makes chrome covers also. I think he is on Ebay. You have to wait since he runs batches and bases are different depending on carbs. $1500 is about right for top and bottom.

Take a new spark plug of any type and open the gap to .080" to .100" on spark plug wire and grounded. Have someone crank engine. If you have a good spark that isn't your problem. If no spark hook it to the coil wire and test again. KD used to make spark testers that look like a spark plug with...

Almost all 91/93 octane around here is no ethanol. There are even a couple of stations that have 87 octane with no ethanol. Yes you pay a price of about 20 to 30 cents a gallon more for the low octane but how much gas do my small engines use? Lawn mower hasn't been started in 3 weeks.

UPS keeps very accurate fleet records for many years. They change batteries, clutches and other parts before they fail. You hardly ever see a UPS truck broke down on the road. Also with batteries with multiple batteries hooked together you should change them all when one fails or you will be...

I'm assuming that when the wipers and T.S. quit the heater blower also quits. If so you are loosing power to the ignition controlled fuses in the fuse box. There are 3 fuses off of 1 buss that comes from the ignition switch. It looks like there are 6 fuses in the fuse box. 2 are battery power or...

I'm not an electrical expert but I would use a digital or analog voltmeter or even a test light and check the fuse box for power when the turn signals and wipers quit. Do the headlights work all the time? Does the engine die when turn signals quit? Finding where you have power and not when...

I was told it was a cheap way of fixing vibration. Saying goes "if it vibrates, hang a weight on it". Early front drive vehicles had them on half shafts also. Ford loves them.

PST sells a 20:1 and a 16:1 new manual box for under $300 and give members a 10% discount.

I used the headlight voltage drop test for years on trucks. Ohm meters won't always pickup bad connections and green under insulation. I only used a single high beam incandescent.

I have one like on the right from Mac or Matco. I've used it for years. If it doesn't come right away just give the knuckle by the stud a hammer hit. Never have wrecked a boot.

Run hard lines except where suspension travel needs flex. 40 years of working on high pressure (1000 to 3000 psi) hard lines are always better when possible. Flex lines are just a lazy mans way of fixing like clamp on battery cable ends.