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Thank you I'll look for those 2 books dart

I will give that a shot seen many on Amazon so I'll get on that first

Ok so I really like the idea of the racer brown 273 d/stock camshaft and as for intake if I can dig up cash I would go 2x4s or tunnel ram only im not sure of when those intakes where introduced as for cr I'd like 10.1 minimum that is my I can handle that cr

Ok so say I start clean slate here and I have just a 318 block here and the year is 1967 and I needed to build a super stocker for drag racing goal is to run 12s in the 1/4 which someone stated before would be the same as my goal of 7.99 in the 1/8 now how would I meet thay goal using only...

Guys... guys ...guys I'm not in here to get people to fight with others.. really I'm not what I'm trying to do is just use what I have to build this 318 yes as many have said is to use aftermarket parts only as I said before I'm trying to stay strictly as to if I was in 1967 and I was building...

Well as of right now the only thing I have is a late 70s smog 360 cast iron 4 barrel intake I have a dual plane Edelbrock eliminator that's been discontinued for about 10 years but I gotta get is fixed

Had plans to port them and put in larger valves or won't that make a difference?

I looked it up online it say shipping weight is 2775 and curb weight is 2806

Ok im seeing I left a ton on information out and I've been called put in many posts about it so I think if I cover those bases I might get a better run on this I'm looking to try and make a 1967 and back super stocker that's can be driven on the street through a small town not long road trips...

As of right now I need to be 7.99 1/8 Mile or better

I always though u want high compression and a good flow to move it all ?

Was going to spend the money and get the fender well headers for that body style Had planned to radius cut the wheel wells and put a 265/60/15 on the back and let it poke out the side with super stocker leafs The motor was from a 1970 power wagon so I assumed it was a 8.4 or 8.5-1 motor for...

I wanted to gasket match the heads and intake and the gp in and hog them both out. I can get magnum heads all day I just didn't want to go that route just simple I was always told to stay low on the head cc if running n/a

I relooked up the heads you are correct the are quoted to be 60-67.5 cc and I didn't want to go away from cast iron heads because I want to stay with the 60s home built style

The ones that came on it where smog 76cc open chamber heads didn't want to use them due to want the compression up to no lower then the rated 10.5-1 heads the 3 angle and the bigger valve idea was I seen many say these heads suffocate engine that are intended to make power

I see what you mean as you said yeah 8k plus is over kill I just want to be sure to hold gears long but still be able to catch all 4 in the distance I was thinking hard on the d/dart gears which were 4.86 but to find them are hard can find anyone that makes them I live in the small town of...

I thought the d4b intake was for the 64-65 heads only mine are the odd ball 2 year only heads the high reving was for the short distance and deep gearing so that it wasn't running out of top end super fast and to not have to **** every 2 seconds the stock bore pop ups was inspired by the super...

That I'm already stocked up on kinda figure that would be a possible issue

No intents to do it on the street it's just what my dad use to call these kinda cars should have explained in more detail thats the distance it would only be good for pro say

Hey everyone youngster here about to built a 1970 318 for a 1965 dodge dart gt 2 door. the dart will be a all steel car 4 speed with 4.10 or 4.88 gears 8 1/4 rear stock suspension other then front disks as for motor it will be built as the following 1970 318 stock bore KB 10.5-1 pop up...