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I would have thought that part of the issue would be that the A-Body sliders are offset on the outside to avoid the bench seat riser and the Charger sliders wouldn't have that offset. My bet is the only way those Charger sliders will fit is if the bench seat rise is removed. But watching as I...

To be clear, based on your measurement and my redneck method of checking, I would say our motors are in the same spot relative to the centerline of the car. Very interesting.

And then a third break when the 58 tooth ring changed again. The later sensor can't read the earlier 58 tooth ring, but the early 58 tooth sensor can read the later ring, so there is that advantage.

I don't think I want to adjust the header. It might have been able to be done tighter, but I don't have a steering column in the car yet so there might be reasons. I really think some careful hammer blows to the inner fender would open that up quite a bit. And since this is the side where the...

Thanks! The washer isn't limiting the side to side movement. The slot is only marginally larger than the bolt and is radiused at the bottom so the weight of the motor is going to center the bolt on that radius provided both mounts are located correctly. And there isn't much slop in the slot...

So if anything your motor is minutely closer to the centerline of the car. Interesting. I am convinced that at least one source of the "hemi tick" is pushrods being a touch short. When they press the balls into the tubes, I think sometimes they bow the tube and end up with a pushrod that is...

Time to do a Megasquirt build. :)

There is some interchange issues as some of the tone rings are 4 bolt and some only 3 bolt. Pretty sure the non-VVT 5.7 is 3 bolt and the 6.1 is 4 bolt, but not sure on the vvt 5.7 or 6.4. I remember looking at something tone ring related awhile ago and not being able to find a tone ring that...

I was curious about running a forged 6.4 crank in a 5.7 block and came across several references to using 2.00" rod journals. Seems like it makes the connecting rods much cheaper. I don't expect I will do anything with my 5.7 beyond the stock crank as I guess they are good for some pretty good...

True, source is important. I have a 2011-14 Challenger manual and it lists 0.0009-0.002 main journal clearance for the 6.4 as well. The first image was from a manual that was listed as for a '15-18 Charger. Sticks in my head that the oil requirements for a 6.4 were different than a 5.7, too...

Here's what I have in one of the service manuals I found online awhile ago. This is tighter on the mains than the 5.7 which lists 0.0009-0.002 while the the HC is 0.0006-0.002. Didn't compare rod journal clearances.

To be clear, I held the 1/4" allen wrench vertical with the flat against the inner fender and slid it back and forth to check the clearance. I could feel it drag on the VC, but not enough to say it had less than 1/4" clear and enough to say it didn't have more than that.

So my wife opened the garage door to get her car out and I couldn't help but step out and poke around some. Here are some pictures of the mount and how the washer helps keep the motor locate. I also tried to twist the motor and it feels very solid. So I don't think there is a twist that...

Does the dash work? What trans?

My guess is I would have to grind 1/8" off the edge. I will get a picture later.

True. And as the show gained traction they gained camera men and the crew got bigger. Rooms, food, fuel, rental car (minivan) and salary might be their biggest expenses. But if that is the case, then someone throwing parts at them isn't what made the show work and "sponsored parts" is a...

I don't think that would work. The mount on the k-frame has a flange that captures the washer. The washer and flange on the mount are what actually keep the motor from lifting. Not sure there is room for the washer if I move the slot over. I could grind one side of the washer down to fit but...

Far as I remember, the only thing the crew did on RK was run them to get gas and parts and only when necessary. And with the advent of Uber and Lyft, seems like you could get the same support with a cost. I guess the crew has sometimes helped push a vehicle or give a jump, but I bet someone...

Just trying to decide which way I want to go. The deadblow is definitely the quicker and easier way. I think I could even modify the mounts without having to leave the motor in.

If I mess with the mounts, I will create a jig of some type to so I can feel somewhat confident that I can get it right. I don't think I would have to cut the tubes free from the plates on the mounts, just cut the mounts at the engine plate side and fit them up and weld them back on. I can see...

Been lots of sleeping and thinking on this so far. Tried to move the k-frame last Saturday and the rest of the time I have been kicking around ideas and checking thinks like how centered the k-frame itself appears to be. I agree, walking away can have benefits. My problem is I think about it...

I don't think Holley will care either. Pretty sure the response would be; "A friggin eight of an inch?? Call us back when you have a real problem". Don't think I will touch the k-frame. My gut says it is in the Holley mounts. And if a cutoff wheel and welder touch anything it will be those...

A new episode of Roadkill dropped today.

You won't hardly ever see me post anything on FB. I might comment on something but other than a marketplace ad and some FWD turbo stuff I tried to give away earlier this year I don't really share anything there. The fact that he has a similar clearance on that header makes me wonder if Holley...

I am measuring from the inside of both frame rails to the center of the crank bolt and seeing an offset of 1.125" rather than the 1.25" it should be. So the clearance to the inner fender is more an indication of the wrong offset rather than a structural issue with the inner fender.

Here's a picture of the k-frame in the car: Yes, saddles are straight up and down. Because one is tied to the steering box mount, I kind of doubt things are bent. And because they are vertical, I don't think wear or something would cause it to set the motor at the wrong offset. If I don't...

I tried to fit the dipstick and discovered that there isn't a way to install it once the headers are on and the motor is in the car. Luckily (for me) this is a mock up so I don't have to pull the engine, I just need to remember this for when the real motor goes in. I can see why this dipstick...

Target is 1.25” offset to the passenger side, but the motor sits at 1.125” offset to the passenger side. Header clears now, but it is tighter than I would like. I think it would be fine with a little push on the inner fender.

Looks like shifting the k-frame over is a no-go. Based on a square on the frame rails, the lower control arm pins appear to be centered on the frame rails as it sits now. So I either accept it is off an 1/8” or fix it using something more drastic than I hoped.

Can't imagine what that would even look like and nothing I want to try. I could see cutting the mounts off and shifting them sideways similar to the BB k-frame mod, but I can't see slotting the mount itself. And cutting the mounts and welding them back on 1/8" to the PS is more work than...