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I have a 73 dart swinger with a 318 and got some new long tube headers. The one on the passenger side only has clearance issues with the torsion bar but the drivers side is a bear... I can't install the steering box from under or over and the lower bolt won't even go in. Based on my research, I...

Need 1 5/4 small bolt pattern front hub assy. Bearing included if possible. 10" drum. Please and thank you.

Definitely 5×4 after measuring. Thank you. Any advise when using the classified section to source parts? Red flags, dos and donts?

Thank you for all the help! I believe that I have what I need. Thanks all!

I unfortunately did not know that the housing and hub where a unit. I had thought that the rust was the problem and used a harmonic puller to get the drum housing off. Never done this before and learning the hard way you could say.... As for measurments, it is 10 inches from outside of one shoe...

I don't know if this helps but this is a photo of the hub. It also says H91042 and 176/4 on the back of the hub. The back side of the drum housing says Max Dia 10.090 inches.

Hello all, I am working on my 74 dodge dart and unfortunately my front hubs and drum covers did not survive due to rust. I having a hard time finding what would be good to replace these. The wheels are 14 inch and it is a 5 stud pattern. Does anyone have any suggestions?

I am using the key twist to start. I disconnected the top of the distributor from where the coil tower connects and used the end as a test gap. My test today ended up as an inconsistent thin white spark approx 1/2 inch long.

I have spark coming through the coil tower but no spark coming from the distributor to the spark plugs... I'm getting super frustrated...

So I believe I've found a problem. I believe that the coil positive is supposed to come closer to battery voltage when key is in run. Instead it goes from near 7 volts with key on and then to near .5 volts in run. Definitely doesn't seam right...

Yes the distributor is turning with the crank. I can certainly check for spark in the distributor. I did buy a new distributor as well.

So I did this test and I got spark when grounding the neg terminal on the coil. Just to clarify, does this mean bad module?

Or maybe I have this wired incorrectly... I have to brown wire on the positive coming from the resistor. The negative has the coil condenser and the yellow and black coming from the ignition module. The one that I felt weird about is the black and Grey. From the diagrams it appeared to me that...

So I did all that and did not get an arch from the coil tower. Does this mean that my coil is bad or maybe the ignition module? Can a coil be bad even though it is pulling current?

This for some reason makes more sense to me. Thank you for taking the time to explain it to me. I will let you know if I have spark.

I guess I'm having a hard time following what your saying about testing the coil.... can you describe it a different way?

Hello all, I'm so close to bringing my Dart to life. I have crank and fuel but no spark. I bought a spark plug test light and verified. I looked for voltage to the coil with key on and it is getting a bit over 6 volts on the positive and 1.5 volts on the neg. I checked the connector going to the...

I will check the linkage. Great insight. Thank you

Grounded the NSS and the key now cranks the motor. Bad NSS or NSS wiring. Perfect. Very grateful, thank you!

I was totally clueless when I started all this and I've really leaned a lot from this forum. I will try and ground the relay and see what happens. I am curious though... does the NSS need power going to it then send power to the relay? If there is no power coming from the NSS wire. Is that a...

I had an initial thread that helped me through a blowing fuse issue and that is all resolved now. Thank you so much. Now I'm trying to solve an issue where there is no crank from the ignition switch to the starter. I checked for voltage with the key in crank to the ignition yellow wire on the...

I moved the red wire to the black and solved the fuse blowing issue. One other question if someone has time. With the replacement Painless harness, is the ignition module deleted? The painless Manuel doesn't mention anything about it. Is it better to remove or integrate it?

I was not expecting this much support coming through this forum. Thank you so much!

Thank you for all your help!

Thanks for the heads up! I will let you know if it works.

This is very good insight, thank you. Can you clarify which "big stud" on the alternator that I should route to the battery and which image "looks right" of the alternator. Thank you for your time.

I will definitely look closer with a test light and multimeter. The NSS is hooked to the G pin on the relay as depicted in the manual. Ad for the starter the last image is why there is 3 wires to the starter. The battery side has the main battery cable leading to and the 8 gadge wire is leading...

That make total sense now that you say it. I been staring at OE diagrams and this diagram for over a week straight now and over looked this. Probably not helpful that 915 is both black and blue apparently... this was very helpful. Very grateful for your time.