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Some may know, i have an odd project, and around that was the discussion of pinning the crank up front in relation to my limited options. I found a kit here :Pin Kit Crankshaft BB-SB All MOPAR Balancer - to avoid having to Double Keyway the Crankshaft Really don't want to spend money on...

If it comes loose I'll just try and center it and weld it together. Did that on a Chevy tracker 4 banger. I used welding rod stubs for equal shims all around center. Redline it often @ 6500.

Actually, now I'm confused. Some searching is telling me I should have the metal shim and bolted on passenger side for timing marks. Mines actually casted into the aluminum on the passenger side, driver pump inlet. Cover must be removed to replace crank seal. I don't see covers like mine...

Passenger side timing marks. Seems rare.

Yup. Adding a tee for an elbow and threaded some magnesium in it.

Real men use tooth brushes. And no oil pressure gauge. Hahahahha. 40 years, never knew what the oil pressure has been

heavy wheel loader. It's been having a miserable neglected life the past 40 years, and isn't about to get any better.

It was running before disassembly. Its not that random of a tear down. Oh man. I can't wait to get it dialed in. I'd love to lay down all the torque in 2nd gear. 7 mph instead of 4. I kept breaking those little pee wee portals on humvees, so I went with Yale straight axle planetaries with...

Oh, and yeah, I can easily make a tooth and a half before the cam begins to turn. Its so worn I'm surprised I didn't make it jump a tooth the last time I was roudy with it.

I understand the rotor doesn't care who is #1, just as long as the firing order is honored, but why are the dots on the can and crank both ontop and not pointing towards each other? That's kinda weird

I'm kinda sarcastic, at the same time I'm not. But there's sooooo much elbow room. It didn't leak before. I'm actually more concerned of the gobs of ****, crud, and what all else that fell into the oil pan. Little bolt hole and drippy drippy isn't going to drain all that. Oh well. We'll see...

Bahh! Look at all that sealing surface!!! We're sending it!

Anyone notice or experience this? Antifreeze I drained out looked brand new. Its mighty thin and close in that one corner. I plan to run new 50/50. Curious why it eroded, or if this was like this since the cover was off. Doesn't look recent

7/8". Thanks

I decided on a timing job myself. I had a cloyes installed back in the day on a v6 Dodge Dakota. Lasted about 4 months. So I put the original back on because I was in a tight time pinch on the side of the road, and luckily the old set was still in a bucket in the back. Anyways Today for this...

Man. I don't know. I'd have to drop the steer axle or lift the engine. One requires welding an overhead hoist onto the frame so I can safely lift it. Other idea requires lifting the entire machine, and welding. I'd have to weld up my own Jack stands too, in place, then torch them apart. I...

No, but, given how goofy this cobble project is, and i was wearing diapers when this swap took place, I try and keep the questions simple, because the long answer will make everyone else give up thinking, because I have no idea what I'm tearing into. The fuel pump discovery and sloppy chain last...

Oh my bad. I thought the 318 series was small block! I tried posting with being engine specific.

True. Luckily its a factory oil pan. Thanks though.

Nope. Never used the word touch. But I did state engine and drain bolt, which was the question! Regardless of the application I'm fine thanks. I don't want to get anyone's tools greasy. I don't think they're good enough for this application.

What size wrench? I don't have any loose pans laying around for wrench check. Later today I think I'm going to have my boy get his arms in there after school.

Well, I straightforwardly asked of bolt threads and size, kept the question simple and short. I didnt ask why its so close to the axle. But since you chose to ask questions, these will make you go cross eyed. Its sitting in the frame of a 10ton machine. There's a few tight spots.

size of head and threads? 318LA late 60's I can't see it. I can barely get my hand between the pan and the differential housing. And if i do manage to get it out and drain the oil, i'm putting in one of them quick drain valves. I'm pretty sure that's the reason why the oil never got changed in...

Sure did fall apart. Looks like newer one doesn't have that return spring. And the cam gear isn't nylon/plastic, but wow that chain swing! Easily a half inch. I'm kinda worried I should pull the cover.

Who's seen a 4 bolt plate between pump and block? More horsepower edition?

kinda. turning a pump. I'm going to send it. i'm assuming the mopar crank snout is a bit larger diameter. i've checked summit racing, and tried googling some photos, but can't find an actual measurement. I did find the part# for the key #106751, which translates to 3/16" 3/4" long. All things...

what's the diameter on the cranksnout? 1 inch? anyone have one on the bench to caliper?

Whew. Glad its not weird. You think a 6th bolt is going to make a difference going from Mopar crank keyway to this idea 3/4" shaft 3/16" key? I think Mopar crank and key way larger diameter.

I need specific measurements and dimensions for a pre1970s 318la crankshaft, water pump inlet on drivers side if that matters, Kinda like this reference, but for the correct engine and other end of crankshaft. Balancer keyway and key reference is most important.

water pump, an alternator, and a very small oil pump to circulate oil to/from oil cooler. radiator fan is gong electric. can't find widths or depths on the keys. anyone have one to measure? i'm transferring torque from crank, through key, through balancer bolts, to pulley, that's welded to a...