oil pan drain bolt

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chorty55

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size of head and threads? 318LA late 60's

I can't see it. I can barely get my hand between the pan and the differential housing. And if i do manage to get it out and drain the oil, i'm putting in one of them quick drain valves. I'm pretty sure that's the reason why the oil never got changed in this thing. It's just in a terrible spot to reach blindly and start threads blindly.

Cannot see it anywhere from the bottom, and the only way to reach it is from above reaching down under, and it's still a blind grab.
 
Huh.. Engine oil pan drain bolt is touching differential.
size of head and threads? 318LA late 60's

I can't see it. I can barely get my hand between the pan and the differential housing. And if i do manage to get it out and drain the oil, i'm putting in one of them quick drain valves. I'm pretty sure that's the reason why the oil never got changed in this thing. It's just in a terrible spot to reach blindly and start threads blindly.

Cannot see it anywhere from the bottom, and the only way to reach it is from above reaching down under, and it's still a blind grab.
 
it *should* be 1/2"- 20

the local parts store/vato zone usually has a variety of them in different lengths and head sizes-- there are some that are allen keyed for flush mount as well.

or you could leave it be and just punch in a fumoto valve.
 
Well, I straightforwardly asked of bolt threads and size, kept the question simple and short.

I didnt ask why its so close to the axle. But since you chose to ask questions, these will make you go cross eyed.

Its sitting in the frame of a 10ton machine. There's a few tight spots.

IMG_20250328_095006.jpg


IMG_20250328_094934.jpg


IMG_20250328_094851.jpg
 
it *should* be 1/2"- 20

the local parts store/vato zone usually has a variety of them in different lengths and head sizes-- there are some that are allen keyed for flush mount as well.

or you could leave it be and just punch in a fumoto valve.
What size wrench? I don't have any loose pans laying around for wrench check.

Later today I think I'm going to have my boy get his arms in there after school.
 
Man.. This is the how to be a Dipsh!t day. You posted engine and drain plug and stated both touch. Never the application. Next time use a scissor jack to change it instead of being stupid, then while you have it in your hand eyeball the threads



Well, I straightforwardly asked of bolt threads and size, kept the question simple and short.

I didnt ask why its so close to the axle. But since you chose to ask questions, these will make you go cross eyed.

Its sitting in the frame of a 10ton machine. There's a few tight spots.

View attachment 1716385065

View attachment 1716385066

View attachment 1716385067
 
Do you need us to lend you tools also? Just trying to save the questions for you. Maybe 1 of us should change it while there dropping off wrenches

What size wrench? I don't have any loose pans laying around for wrench check.

Later today I think I'm going to have my boy get his arms in there after school.
 
size of head and threads? 318LA late 60's

I can't see it. I can barely get my hand between the pan and the differential housing. And if i do manage to get it out and drain the oil, i'm putting in one of them quick drain valves. I'm pretty sure that's the reason why the oil never got changed in this thing. It's just in a terrible spot to reach blindly and start threads blindly.

Cannot see it anywhere from the bottom, and the only way to reach it is from above reaching down under, and it's still a blind grab.
Nope. Never used the word touch. But I did state engine and drain bolt, which was the question!

Regardless of the application
Man.. This is the how to be a Dipsh!t day. You posted engine and drain plug and stated both touch. Never the application. Next time use a scissor jack to change it instead of being stupid, then while you have it in your hand eyeball the threads

Do you need us to lend you tools also? Just trying to save the questions for you. Maybe 1 of us should change it while there dropping off wrenches
I'm fine thanks. I don't want to get anyone's tools greasy. I don't think they're good enough for this application.
 
Next time post in "general discussion" maybe? Definitely not "small block mopar".
Better chance of getting relevant answers.
 
Do we need a Hough End loader forum? :BangHead: :rofl:
No, but, given how goofy this cobble project is, and i was wearing diapers when this swap took place, I try and keep the questions simple, because the long answer will make everyone else give up thinking, because I have no idea what I'm tearing into. The fuel pump discovery and sloppy chain last night forced me to finish my case of Heineken early.

So, yeah. Ban me or move/lock the thread.

Its all I got.
 
No, but, given how goofy this cobble project is, and i was wearing diapers when this swap took place, I try and keep the questions simple, because the long answer will make everyone else give up thinking, because I have no idea what I'm tearing into. The fuel pump discovery and sloppy chain last night forced me to finish my case of Heineken early.

So, yeah. Ban me or move/lock the thread.

Its all I got.
No harm, no foul. We are just giving you a hard time. I think this is the first time we have seen small block in an end loader questions asked here. We need to think out of the box. Like: I don't know which pan is on that but you may be able to find a different application with a different sump to make your life easier. Just thinking outside the box because we have to.
 
Careful.. you'll be spec'ing him a new oil pan too

No harm, no foul. We are just giving you a hard time. I think this is the first time we have seen small block in an end loader questions asked here. We need to think out of the box. Like: I don't know which pan is on that but you may be able to find a different application with a different sump to make your life easier. Just thinking outside the box because we have to.
 
No harm, no foul. We are just giving you a hard time. I think this is the first time we have seen small block in an end loader questions asked here. We need to think out of the box. Like: I don't know which pan is on that but you may be able to find a different application with a different sump to make your life easier. Just thinking outside the box because we have to.
Man. I don't know.

I'd have to drop the steer axle or lift the engine.

One requires welding an overhead hoist onto the frame so I can safely lift it.

Other idea requires lifting the entire machine, and welding. I'd have to weld up my own Jack stands too, in place, then torch them apart. I wouldn't be able to move them.

I'm out here in the dirt 400ft away from the shop. I made a really sketchy 240v to 120v adapter and have 20amps of 240v out here over standard 12ga ex cords.

so I have a light bulb and small dc inverter welder. Its impressive for 450ft of extension cords!!!

I'd rather blindly reach for that bolt., and assume its a 1/2 20 and be out a $20 drain valve.
 
Pull the pan and install drain in new location.
no need to pull the pan. clean to bare steel where you want the new plug and weld a nut to the pan. then drill through the centre of the nut a smaller size so as not to drill the threads. once the oil's drained (flushing any bits of swarf out) install a stubby bolt with a copper washer. :thumbsup:
neil.
 
no need to pull the pan. clean to bare steel where you want the new plug and weld a nut to the pan. then drill through the centre of the nut a smaller size so as not to drill the threads. once the oil's drained (flushing any bits of swarf out) install a stubby bolt with a copper washer. :thumbsup:
neil.
That would be my suggestion as well, you beat me to it :)
 
I used to have a boat with no drain plug access.i used an oil vacuum kit. It looked like a 2.5 gallon gas tank with a pump on the larger fill opening, and a tube that went down the dipstick tube. The pump created a vacuum and pulled out the oil into the tank.
I'd imagine someone makes something similar
 
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