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Years ago I worked at a shop with a Mustang Dyno. I could spend hours ranting, but won't. 215 is a reasonable number for a mild 360. Mine made 205 or so depending on tune. Best way to look at it is as a baseline. You're at zero, how do you improve from here? Remember also, that peak hp is...

I finally got the chance to use my friend's old analog timing light, and the advance works as expected. No retard, before advancing. It looks like it was a timing LIGHT problem all along. I also found some Mr Gasket 925D springs, used one with one stock light spring, and have all my mech...

Actually, I do have a distributor with the advance plate welded, part of an old throttle body injection experiment...

I hope it's not the chain, it was brand new. I'm leaning towards the Crane ignition box, apparently they had a high failure rate...

I haven't had the chance to borrow a dial indicator to test distributor shaft wear yet. So instead I tried a different distributor, with different springs, and no difference. The timing retards about 8* only if I quickly rev it up. If I bring the rpms up slowly, it advances fairly steadily.

I found my 79 Aspen FSM, and read the "Shaft and Bushing Wear Test". I suppose, I need to find a dial indicator, and do some testing.

I actually work in a parts store. Getting the Mr G springs shouldn't be a problem. I'm trying to wrap my head around what's happening in the distributor when I rev it up. As the RPMs come up the weights want to spin outward causing the rotor to advance. The springs keep this from happening...

All I have to choose from are stock springs, so I was going to try two of the light springs, instead of the stock setup of one light, one heavy...

PoisonDart74, I haven't got the vacuum advance connected yet. Thanks for the info, it'll help when I get to that. The one in the distributor is a 8.5, but I also have an 11 that tested good. Also, I believe it's a 3/32" allen wrench for the adjustment.

67Dart273, the distributor doesn't feel worn out. I had it completely apart, bushings look good, feels tight, turns smoothly. I lubed all the moving parts, and they all seem to move freely. I do have 4 or 5 more distributors to work with. Anything I should be looking for?

Fresh rebuilt stock (low) compression 360, 974 heads, Comp XE262 cam, new timing chain set, Crane Hi6 ignition box. Stock electronic distributor with initial timing set at 16*, advance yoke slots welded to limit mech advance to 18*. Stock advance springs. No vacuum advanced, yet. When I...

Looks like there are two styles. One with weight added opposite the keyway, the other with weight removed on the same side as the keyway. On the first style, the added weight is part of the centre hub. on the second, the weight is removed from the outer ring. I don't know if the difference...

Do 360s use different balancers for auto & manual trans? I found a catalog listing that shows this, but I'm really not sure what the difference would be. Any ideas?

I always use the cork gaskets at the front and rear. With RTV to fill the gaps at the ends. I usually give the cork strips a light smear of RTV just to keep them in place. Also, RTV around the water ports on both sides of the gaskets. I always run a PCV.

There are two different center sump 360 oil pans. If your pan has the number 392 stamped in the bottom of the sump you're ok. If it's stamped 876, you need a specific pick up, a Melling 72S4.

Damn, I was hoping somebody here could help me ID this head.

All the pictures of the RHS heads that I found online had their logo cast by the spark plug holes. As well as dual exhaust bolt patterns. Can anybody take some pics of their Pro TopLine, RHS, or EQ heads for comparison? I haven't found much on google. Not with much detail anyway.

More pics, second try...

More pics

Anyone ever see a magnum head with a casting like this? There's also no core plugs on the ends of the heads.

It looked like the front two bolts should be longer, as the intake flange is thicker there. At least on the cast iron manifold I'm going to use. Thanks guys!

Anybody know how long they're supposed to be?

Digging through my bolt bucket, I realized I'm not sure the correct length the intake bolts should be. I assume they'll have a pilot tip and a captured washer.

Lucas offers a HotRod oil in 10w30, 10w40 and 20w50, all rated at 2100 ppm of zinc.

Looking for ideas for valvesprings on magnum heads. A friend offered me some LS springs and retainers, saying he'd used the same combo before. They're the stock beehive style. I'm hoping to run a cam with .512" lift. Anybody tried this?

The sad thing is, that I still haven't bought any heads. And, I now have two shortblocks that need heads...

Always good to find a 3-1/2 year old thread brought back from the dead...

51515 is the right one. 51515r is the 200psi rated race filter. 51515xp is the "synthetic" filter.

Anybody use a Comp Cams 20-604-9 roller cam in a carbed engine? How was the idle? Would you use it again, or try something else?

The later engine should be a roller cam block, and have the swirl chamber heads. The 72 has... well, it's a 72.