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It had to be special ordered, it's an odd ball thread. I don't need it as there will be no more Holley carbs anywhere in my future!!!

I've got a heli coil (NAPA branded) set for the Holley fuel bowl screws....no need to ask why I bought the set...that would just be mean. Moral of the story is without the little gasket that goes on the screw...the screw can bottom out and cause agony. Anyone need a slightly used heli-coil set...

Heli-coils were used in every threaded hole when I built satellites at JPL. I know rocket scientists tend to over think everything....but they do make the threaded holes in aluminum a lot stronger...especially for those who drink multiple red bulls while bolting down their carbs....make sure to...

What made my life easier, besides using the short NAPA filter, was to add a Lokar flexible dipstick tube. It made pulling the filter out around the headers less painless and messy task.

Get a pushrod length check thingie; sorry can't remember the real name. On mine, I have to go .060 longer than the Mopar Performance conversion pushrods to get the proper preload.

My best advice is to put some gasket sealer in the corners, especially those the the exhaust side if the head. It seemed like the gasket (for a lack of a better word) twists in those corners. As I understand it, they are a little different than the LA heads. I also used studs and nuts to hold...

Phenolic or plastic spacer between the carb and manifold. That help with mine although it was a Holley and not a TQ.

I believe you can use the Mopar point oh twentysomething thick head gaskets (thinking .024 compressed thickness), they were under $40 a couple of years ago. Not sure on the bore diameter.

Discoloration in a broken metal piece, when different from the rest, generally indicates it has been breaking for some time, but the yellow, I can't explain. Maybe that new space aged Chinese-Indian aluminum alloy?

Hughes makes their own version of the Thumpr, called the Whiplash. It would list spring requirements for the cam

Try this one: http://www.ttiexhaust.com/PDF/II_TTI636A.pdf

Stock beer barrel intake manifold? The oil pooling in the plenum wreaks of the plenum gasket blowing out. Why in the world they made the intake a 2 piece?

what do sick eagles have to do with street racing?

I have Heddman headers. I put in a Lokar flexible dipstick tube and it made the whole oil filter removal operation a lot easier and less messy. I attached the tube to the firewall and it pushes out of the way when sliding the filter between it and the headers. I still may go with a remote...

Mopar has head .028-.024 head gaskets available thru the dealer and at a reasonable price. Then again, it was early 2008 when I got mine.

If you're running the Mag with the factory fuel injection, it could be the injectors you hear....at least thats what a Dodge mechanic told me.

Maybe it is the Power Valve that the original author that the original poster quoted? That would only help in the selection of the PV. Then, yet again, it could be a secret Chevy engine trick to get 950 HP out of a 305 small block on a $84.99 rebuild.....

Torque spec for Magnum heads (on a magnum engine) is 105 ft lbs. Not sure if it should be any different when the heads are bolted onto an LA block. I used the thin Mopar gaskets on my 360, copper coated em, torqued to 105 ft lbs (way too much for an old fart like me) and haven't had an issue...

The chart might be written in Eyetalian now!! <ducking>

Lets start off at the top-- Intake manifold-bolts to the heads different than on LA motors. Intake choices are Edelbrock or the Crosswinds intake. I can't recall the exact number, but the torque spec is in inch pounds and don't exceed it. Valve covers-Magnums are 10 bolt, LA engines have 5...

Yup, they'll work.

I've got one lifter that seems to be collapsing after the engine is shut off. It sounds like the valve spring is "popping" open intermittently. It is also noisey on start up. I've got maybe 2 hours of run time on the lifters; they're Comp Cams brand. My question is I have Rhoads lifters that I...

With the Gen 3 Dakotas, the only way you could get a 5.9 was with the RT package.

Look at the broken off surface and see if there is a jagged piece or something sticking up from the rest of the sheared off area. If there is something, you can take something with a pointed edge, like a nail but larger, and try tapping on it; that might move the bolt. I've always tried that...

According to Larry Shepard's Magnum engine book, the mag engines should allow .550 lift before retainer to guide clearance becomes and issue, that leaves .100 before they touch. Of course, always check your heads to be sure....100 minimum clearance.

Try hughesengines.com

When contacting Hughes about their Whiplash cams, they seemed to think the .552 lift would clear the guides. Larry Shepard's "How to Modify Your Mopar Magnum V8" says there should be about .650 clearance between the retainer and the guide and recommends no less than .100 clearance, effectively...

Hughes has a valve spring, PN 1102, that fits the Magnum head without modification for under $6 each. I can't find the email with the locks and retainers he recommended but I'm thinking they were under $65 for the retainers. Those springs are good to .550 lift.

Back in my Dodge Dakota days, it was sworn that Autolite 3924 (I believe that is the PN) made and additional 5hp over that Champion plugs that came from the factory. I'm not sure how factual that is, but I did go to them when I did a tune up. I couldn't really tell the difference, but then again...

The American made rockers might have metal from offshore. In sheet metal, we toured a plant in California. The ingots (huge ingots) came from South America and were processed here...in the sheet metal case...they made the ingots skinnier and wider. Ok, I over simplified. But, that might be a...